I have recently engaged erhem... quite famous KC supplier in LYN.

This is the hole made in concrete top in order to fit my Fotile Hob - HD1B.



Measurement of the hole is about 755mm x 435mm.

But my Fotile Hob - HD1B measurement is
750mm x 430mm for the top and 660mm x 360mm for the bottom. That mean I will end up putting my Fotile Hob on the floor...

This is how the concrete man 'fix' the problem -.-'''



Is it still a concrete? How is the strength of this new structure?

Another picture to share.


The concrete man forget to reserve 2 holes for my cold tap and filter tap during making of the concrete :'(

So, this is how the concrete man do to 'fix' the problem.






The concrete man take out the tile, dig big holes for my cold tap and filter tap. And he ask me to ask contractor to apply more silicone to seal the gap :''''''(

Reason why I choose concrete top rather than granite because of I want solid, strong and long lasting of my KC. Now I am worry of don't know how long my hob will fall down, and don't know how long I need to change and apply the silicone to the big holes....

I am really getting piss off seeing this, can I ask the concrete man to redo the whole concrete top?

Any Sifu/GURU in KC can advise me on this? Thanks

This post has been edited by yekhong: Nov 28 2011, 01:12 AM

It should be able to hold the load after putting the tile in except you plan to do other staff on it...

Hope come u didn't get the proper measument before open the hole? or indeed the contractor issue?

I have given the measurement diagram to contractor. Still....

I am afraid of the strength.

I have big pot to cook for Chinese dumpling + big pot normally use to boil water, the total weight can easily exceed 50 kg

Do you think, the added cement enough to Subtain such load without to falling off by itself?

This post has been edited by yekhong: Nov 28 2011, 12:50 AM

Woooo..50KGs? I guess you need to take the challeage or ask the contractor redo it but this will involved hacked the whole table top off...

Alternative I remember saw few post that the custom make a base to hold due to Hole too big...

simple, upgrade the Fotile HD1B to GFG 86201, ask the KC fella to bear 50% keke

I buy my Fotile Hoob - EH10BQ and Fotile Hob - HD1B during fair time and get free extended warranty to 5 years, can still entitled to upgrade?

But how about my cold tap and filter tap? The holes how to seal? I bought both taps during fair as well.

At first the concrete man ask me to change to wall mount type. <angry>

How to change? Sigh...

Actually my initial plan also want to buy 86201, but heard HD1B nozzle better because of the cast iron grate design, is it?

This post has been edited by yekhong: Nov 28 2011, 01:45 AM

Did they made the top using concrete and Rebar? Concrete as in Cement + small rock + sand, (not only cement +sand only) How thick is the concrete top? If its 3", and if you have rebar the strength should be good, the contractor will need to cut out minimal 1.5" out, make sure surface is rough and add in new cement, Don't forget you have tile, if you are using floor tiles is very strong too. If you are worry, on the side of the new cement, made a wood surrounding it, with 4 wood leg.

Silicon is ok, my dry kitchen water tap opening is much bigger, and the base is wood. Seal ok.

For me, When I got the sink and hob for wet kitchen, i made the cutout fitting myself using styrofoam. Much easier, sometime if they give indo worker do, many just don't give a dam

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 28 2011, 08:06 AM

I am not sure whether he put in small rock or not.

Actually it is local Chinese and he is the only one who do the whole concrete top, water piping and tile. And my other indo, who I hire to do other renovate work, came out and ask him, how he going to put in water tap. Then only he realize the mistake he had made. What a shame!!!

When he hack you, you should see if its only sand and cement, or with rock.

Mind sharing which KC supplier you're using? If you're reluctant to reveal in the open please pm me instead. I'm planning to engage someone to do KC work soon and hopefully this is not the same people as yours.

This post has been edited by svage98: Nov 28 2011, 10:28 AM

It is important that the new small extended section of the"concrete" has good bonding with the other parts. Else, with heavy load, it could just give way. This will not happen immediately as there are tiles to temporary support, but with time and load, it will start to crack and drop.
You could ask your contractor to provide metal supports across to the base of the hob. Spanning from the back to the front. However, will need to check so that it does not interfere with your kitchen cabinet door.

This post has been edited by kelvyn: Nov 28 2011, 11:20 AM

If they're just casting the concrete without bonding with the previous concrete, I afraid it can't takes the load. I believe that your contractor can easily add additional steel bar to extend the counter top, what I think is right will be... drill hole to your existing counter top..put in additional steel bar..grout it..then only cast the extended concrete.. it should be having the bonding effect and able to carry the load.. Having a contractor like this is a big headache.. =.=

Good luck bro!

weikee..noticed the sentence above..it made me laugh my 1st laugh today. LOL

"When he hack you"

Haha.. sorry for the mistake. Surfing and cleaning house can't come together

Oh dear. How can they make such a mistake. At this point, no one can guarantee it can support the heavy load. If i were u, i will ask them to re-build it.

Normally when this "added concrete" happens (due to his mistake not taking note of the measurement), when they "add the concrete", they will for:

Option A: redo the whole portion.
Option B: to add, then they need to hack surface of the perimeter (inner side) of the opening, make surface rough, then insert rebar with Hilti (or equavalent) to hold tightly the bonding newly pour CONCRETE, NOT CEMENT PASTE.... let it dry for few days, to get maximum bonding. Then apply tiles on top to get more bonding.
Option C: apply option B, with metal supports at bottom.

If your case, doing heavy stuff cooking....better have stronger supports!

But 1stly, have you told the chinese guy that he must construct the conc top (with stronger rebar, stronger grade of conc mix...etc) according to your spec??

Just sharing...thanks

You are at least lucky where they got some "heart" to rectify it. My counsin's contractor, Cawindor Decor screwed up and installed the basin in the opposite direction. They don't even bother to correct it and kept arguing they are right though the manual and the specification stated that. This shop is located at Putra Permai. They are now known as Milla Home Decor.

This post has been edited by ckl1998: Nov 28 2011, 11:20 PM

wah, installed the basin in the opposite direction, such mistake also they dare to argue that they are right? zzz

Just share some of few option for u,

normally if doing concrete top they will put a steel net first than come to a cement work,hardly people will put a rock inside the cement.
n for your case,just afraid the contractor won't do the whole new top for u,even if u cut it in the middle is not so strong too.

just give u the option if the contractor don't help u to do the new KC top.

before u doing the Kitchen cabinet. u may ask the carpenter to help u do the wood support below the area of the table too.that at least can support and help u to hold some weight.because the whole cabinet is able to support the top of the hob plus the concrete.( actually if good carpenter it won't affect the door)

plus,if u using granite,actually granite is the hardest tile among whole tiles,is more strong than concrete.

plus some tips for other about the KC top.

before you doing your kitchen cabinet top.u may ask your carpenter to cut u the size of the top plus the measurement of the sink and hob.so you won't get any trouble on that.

Good Point