For apartment are you sure you need pump model for (1)?
Coz usually high rise they pressurise the water feed to unit already.

For the non rain shower..
I stay in rumawip and the water pressure is actually strong enough (I set the main water valve at 50% to reduce pipe leaks that some of my neighbours faced)
In actual fact I'm maxing out the heat (90-100%) to have a warm shower even with non-pump 3600W model hence the question do you really need a pump for high rise (especially new project)
Pana got push start button and very easy to get minor parts online (like new hose/new shower head after maybe 10 years it gets clogged with limescale inside, change the hose and head made the National WH pressure strong again in my parents' place)
Toshiba slightly hotter at 3800W heater (Pana is 3600W).
For me I prioritise the push start button for convenience when the shampoo gets in the eyes..just feel for the WH box.. press push start..ta-dah rather than trying to find the valve to open it.
For the rain shower one.. 
The pressure concern also (if high pressure), then you don't need a pump WH, but should be looking at 4800W highlands model (need upgraded wiring) to ensure water is still hot enough for rain shower (as creating the ultimate rain shower a la hotel style, requires strong water pressure + storage heater type of water heater).

If you're certain the base water pressure isn't strong, then the DSK38ES3MB-RS Toshiba should be better i.e. warm enough (3800W) even after boosted by its pump, for its bundled rain shower kit.
The 3800W Toshiba is slightly more powerful than the first Rubine 3600W.

No prob
Without pump the equivalent (push start) one will be DH-3MS1 / DH-3MT1

MS1 is white
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/panasoni...1689248923.html

MT1 is black
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/panasoni...1997712230.html

Functionally the same, just the colour choice (black costs more)

On Toshiba service.. http://toshiba.com.my/service-centres/
Aside from the Glenmarie HQ - most of the other regions are serviced by their local dealers nowadays, the HQ still exists even after midea took over, don't worry.

Haven't interacted with Toshiba appliances' SC for warranty claim actually;  but for other business unit (laptop service) was OK (got a motherboard replaced in warranty).

aircon died after 15+ years so didn't deal with them;
fridge uneconomical repair - died in 6 years;
washing machine still working.

my toshiba water heater heating element tank bursted.
it is made out of plastic.
The technician said it is due to my water pump pressure too high and burst the plastic.

may i know which other instant water heater model's heating element tank is made of metal instead of plastic?

Nonstandard use with an external water pump that is above the spec of "max water pressure" supported by the WH can cause this issue.

Under normal circumstances it should last 10 years easily (w/o additional external pump). If using external pump need to check the pump's pressure doesn't exceed the capability of WH (max pressure it can sustain).

After 20 years I replaced the head and hose for my National 1997 era heater with Pana parts, coz of limescale affecting water pressure. Also condo mgmt replaced whole building piping and restored the pressure to pretty good level (as the original iron pipes all rusted internally)

hi, it is DSK38ESSMB.

ya, probably my inlet pressure is high cause i added a pump for the whole house.

the stopcock is at outlet as i connect it to a mixer type 3 way water outlet

Most welcome
You mean this one? http://toshiba.com.my/waterheater/dsk38s5mw.html#tab
Max inlet pressure 0.3MPa = 3bar

Most welcome

High five I got this rain shower model too. Yet to install though

It was around 529 last year November. Got it during the 11.11 sales with bank voucher hehe