bro. is yours manual? highway use?
envy u le

Itu Mitsu.

Ini Campro.

But i believe the car is still new la.

My manual, 5000rpm all the way also can return me 300km or so.. RM50

i still follow saga fc threads since i got the blm auto in 2008. mileage now 50k. full city driving but heavy foot.
mileage been always the same for last 5 years ...

rm50 for 150km
or
23.8 litres for 150km
or 6.3km per litre

if i use caltex mileage drops below 135km

anyone got worse than my fc? sigh sigh ...

6.3km/l is ridiculous, even for a CamtakPro Saga BLM AT. It is definitely not normal.

r3apers

See your break drum..
If there's some rust on the drum means your break pump jammed...
And also try to servis your IAFM(doesn't need to change)

Mine BLM(A) 08 still can achieve around 12km/l with light foot
Millage 70k km

iafm is this     lmao

Swirl flap

12km/l what condition? highway? city? mixed? 
just wanna compare to mine driving.

i hope  friends here can teach me wat else to change. i will get them done tis week.
thanks for all replies

my 2008 carb saga lmst, 14' rim besi 200km rm30 ok ka? city driving.
using shell ron95, paco engine oil.

i drive a saga fl (auto) year 2010.. rm60 gives about 260km, give or take... driving between 70km/h-100km/h.. rarely go beyond 100km/h..

how do you fellas get more than 300km for a full tank?

first of all, please calculate ur FC.

I never did any calculation before. But i will have a look with the example you gave above.

The petrol bar indicator, usually gives 40KM per bar. That is what i get.

I think its about time to blog about how to save petrol liao Been on on off off posting the same stuff, also got into argument with the tree huger

1) FC mostly depending on traffic condition, it could be recently traffic got heavier
2) Go wash your pollen filter, make sure its clean so you get more aircond. Try to reduce the thermostat to minimal. Do remember our 2000cc worth SANDEN compressor took out almost 1/3 of the torque just to power up cold air in the cabin. You can blast your blower speed at 4(if you can take it), just be very careful on the thermostat will do.
3) Don't stay in the car and blow aircond. Refer no.2. My normal blower speed at 3. Thermostat is half during the day, and minimal at night.
4) It's not 3krpm shift up or 2.5krpm. It's how long does it take to reach 3krpm. Try to reduce a little bit of your acceleration. For example usually within 1 second you hit 3krpm, immediately shift up, this is a good way to lose petrol. Can try take 2 seconds to hit 3krpm, follow by 3 seconds. You'll be surprise by practicing this alone already save you bunch of fuel.
5) Sometimes it's not 5th gear 2krpm all the way can save petrol. If uphill slope, let the cruising speed slow down a little bit. If needed, downshift and maintain slightly higher RPM, you'll be surprise it actually save petrol with higher RPM on low gear, rather than low RPM in higher gear when going uphill.
6) From far already see traffic light red light, still go and "bem! bem!" show off, ofcoz waste petrol la. I normally declutch and let the car roll until stop. If suddenly turn green light, drop gear and continue acceleration.

Basically thats about it. Lazy to explain technical alreay

Out of all the gauges, fuel level gauge is 1 of the most unpredictable gauge. It's float weight NOT calibrated, some car lighter, some heavier. My case is heavy, tend to give me illusion of petrol saving. When car is travelling, my fuel gauge doesn't go down. My 1st bar normally can last up to 80km before it lesap. After I stop my engine, the float settled then it become 1 bar less.

Some lighter float like dares case, up hill, hilang 1 bar, downhill 1 bar extra, go flat road, back to normal again.

Really can't tell how many km before the alert indicator lite up.

I never did any calculation before. But i will have a look with the example you gave above.

The petrol bar indicator, usually gives 40KM per bar. That is what i get.

I never did any calculation before. But i will have a look with the example you gave above.

The petrol bar indicator, usually gives 40KM per bar. That is what i get.

for me best way to calculate your own car FC
1st :fill up your tank FULL
2nd :drive the car untill you ready to fill your tank again
3rd :and refill you tank using the SAME pump (as the same station as 1st step)

I used to measure fc like your method, but found it not really accurate. Sometime it click early sometime not. And need to refill only that station pump only. Now i change my method, after the first click, wait a few second then slowly fill up the petrol until can see the petrol at the hole. This method can pump at any petrol station, confirm accurate.

yup...you method are more accurate
and the reason why same pump "click" differently is because