If you're driving the H-Line, the brake system along with the brake pad is quite good for daily driving. Very dusty is the con. If you compare it with performance pad, of course, cannot compare lar...trying compare a daily car with a performance car, you WILL see the big difference.

For the pad, I believe is a 250C to 300C pad. Performance pad are usually 450C and above. I'm driving a City with the stock Nissin pad as well, abt 300C kuah. Some ppl complain spongy feel also, brake hard won't brake straight but that is also the ABS working to prevent tyre locking. Its braking performance its almost the same like PE H-Line. Been driving City for near 6 years liao b4 being "chong kong" by my wife. The fact that PE is abt 150 to 200kg heavier than City and still feel same braking performance speaks quite well for its braking system and stock pad.

I did quite a few emergency hard braking (not at high speed but normal daily driving speed), still slide forward as expected for ABS, but good enuf to brake in time. If really celup brake pad, sure bang liao. So I would say if you're a daily driver that don't speed often, the stock pad combined with H-line braking system is very adequate liao. Also stock pad won't makan the disc, most performance pad would. So far I would say H-Line brake pad did strike a balance between performance and comfort (not makan rotor)...

The only way to eliminate smell when on air-cond is to fully service your air cond. Generally its becoz of accumulated water condensation in your air cond. After dry it will leave a type of powder form, as it accumulate, smell start appearing.

This was also in part due to mostly parking outside especially for those without garage or roof top. Condensation will be greater vs car park inside building or roof cover when morning dew will not affect it.

Of course if celup ppl service air-cond and not clean properly, smell will be there. If to let experience ppl full service to clean every part of air-cond that might cause the smell.

If you gonna use ZE912, I would suggest Hankook V12 instead. For me, having tried both ZE912 and V12, I would say V12 beats 912 at almost ALL aspect. Used to be similarly priced. Not sure abt it nowadays since tyres prices rise like nobody's business.

Weakness of V12 is the road noise but 912 seems to produce equally bad road noise once you wear it down a bit. Cornering grip, hydroplanning min. and "yeng" looks (uni-directional gives EXCELLENT wet weather drive) all seems to favor V12 over 912. I'm still using V12 for my City now. A bit soft sidewall tho thus have to pump a couple PSI more than usual but comfortable and absorb bumps quite well.

V12 mentioned a tech that eliminate/minimize uneven wear. Seems to work on my City coz always front tyres got uneven wear. Since using V12 for a couple of years, totally ZERO uneven wear on all my tyres.

Wait a minute....mmm...I don't think V12 has 60 height tyres....since my City is using 195/55/R15.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 23 2011, 07:15 AM

On the coolant thingy mentioned a few pages ago. There are 2 types of coolant in the market. One is full concentrate coolant and the other is a pre-mix.

Usually branded manufacturer used pre-mixed coolant. That means, NO water should be added into the coolant. When topping up, use the pre-mixed coolant. Adding water to this type of coolant DEFINITELY will dilute it and lower its boiling point.

The full concentrate coolant have to mix with water yourself. This is the type that water can be added although it will dilute the existing coolant, just add a little more coolant inside...then add more water.

Don't know if Proton is using pre-mixed one or what? Anyone knows?

Coolant has 2 main critical function, cooling (transfer heat) and corrosive inhibitor. The main ingredient ethylene glycol (EG) (coolant) does not wear out, however the addictives that inhibit rust and corrosion does wear out. While you're concern on coolant left in the tank, you forget anti-corrosion is the 2nd half critical part of the coolant pre-mixed.

If your using a pre-mixed coolant, it is ALWAYS recommended to top up using the same pre-mix. EG does evaporate but at a very much slower pace. Refilling using the same pre-mixed coolant allows refreshing of the inhibitors. Waters does not contain this addictives and will only serve to dilute the mix and anti-corrosive capabilies further.

If you're using non-diluted coolant, then topping up with water is ok, PRESUMING you will also top up a bit of coolant in relation to the amt of water you top up...later. Use only Distilled Water or even better, RO water. Tap waters contains mineral that might crystallized in the radiator and causes corrosion (further reduced effectiveness of anti-corrosion addictives in the coolant).

Reading manuals of major car manufacturer that uses pre-mixed coolant ALWAYS recommended topping up coolant with ONLY the same pre-mixed coolant. Adding water was highly discourage. Some cars like newer Hondas are using Type 2 coolant. This type of coolant can last even longer than the standard coolant, 5-10 years of 100K to 200K mileage. It SHOULD never be top up with anything else other than type 2 coolant coz if water or standard coolant was added, it sort of dilute them to a the level of standard coolant. Just like nitrogen gas in tyre, add in just a bit of normal air, it functions will revert back to normal air no matter 95% is still nitrogen.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 25 2011, 02:01 PM

Size is 20" & 19". What brand better ah...PIAA lor.....can empty your pocket very fast also.

Aiyo....even Honda SC also add water to their Type 2 long life coolant. My mechanic, an ex-honda mechanic also say add water can liao...and say Type 2 coolant also need to change within 2 years.

If you really look at all the info, the difference between type 2 and type 1 coolant of Honda is type 1 need to change within 2 years BUT type 2 long life can last 10 years or 200K mileage. Both coolant especially Type 2 long life coolant are pre-mixed and CANNOT be diluted further or else addictives effectiveness will be seriously affected and probably would only last a year or 2 instead of 10 years (I would change between 5-6 years instead).

mean even so-called experience mechanic that had went thru training in Honda cannot differentiate the difference of coolant properties or don't bother. I HAVE to specifically ask them to NOT touch my radiator water everytime I go servicing and provide them with my own bought coolant to be used. I believe they are using tap water also.....

Wahh...macam ini, you gonna spend abt RM 250 for both FS and Semi.. for 10K mileage. Worth it meh?

Some more once you use a good FS with improvement on most aspect of performance, smoothness, vibration, noise, acceleration, can tahan dropping back to semi kah...(unless you really pokai like what Zen with his Magnatec last time).

For myself, since I got FOC service and parts till 20K, gonna use Syntium 800 till 25K mileage. Then I might be considering changing to other semi. Cannot afford FS for PE coz every 2.5-3 months have to service. For my City FS is good coz I only service 5K abt 5-6 month once. Some more love wife mah, give max comfort and smooth performance for the car she drive.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 27 2011, 11:59 AM

A lot of ppl missed talking abt the filter. Lube maybe boleh tahan but filter sometime cannot tahan depending on the amt of contaminant stuck there. So some drag lube to 7K or 10K but actually filter might already kong liao...means free flow of contaminant thru the engine coz filter usually have a bypass mode once clog up.

I plan to buy a filter from CoSE at 10K service next month and service outside using same Syntium 800 at 15K then go back service at CoSE at 20K. They no need to know if we actually do 15K service outside or not coz its not in their manual.

Does that means if we service 15K at CoSE, won't charge something like RM60 for labor charges like those Honda SCs?

However going CoSE means have to take leave. My 1 day leave already cost more than the car service and part cost liao. I think I will still do it outside on Saturday, can kau tim much faster, save my leave for rainy days or when the day I wake up at 9am.

Only thing is unlike my other cars, my darn PE everytime service also need to claim warranty wan...not parts....but fixed new sounds..fixed rear door, now front door got sound. This one would be the problem that Xan mentioned before between handle and lock.

Now rear door sound comes out again..will try rubber softener myself but damn sien lar. My other cars, go service 5 times, claim fixing 1 time, darn PE everytime also have to claim fixing things..

I still using 1MB stimix...should have install UNIFI on June, then my wife got pregnant and very pantang on install anything coz my last baby 6 months pregnant, install new air-cond, 2 weeks later, stillborn.

So cannot install anything new, no new LED TV, no new RM155 Astro Beyond package, have to cancel Unifi installation....darn, even house now roof leaking water cannot fix. Have to wait till January and Feb next year, then I straight gonna install UNIFI, change LED TV and change to Astro Beyond.

Normally no, but last time I insist install new Daikin inverter air-cond in our room when our old one koyak...she mentioned cannot but I insisted coz cannot sleep without one since our room very hot wan.

Than after install terus kena case, now AFTER a few years of trying and finally successfully conceived one, I think its better minimize risk coz if I do something and it happen again, I will feel guilty forever, and I will always get the blame, not to mention this baby is our last try...

Taoist actually coz Buddhist no pantang wan....Taoist pantang everything and pray to everything...I got Guan Gong, Kuan Yin Ma, Tai Seng Yeah, Ti Gong and De Ze Gong at my home ler...

Unfortunately for me, I not much praying tho there is no harm doing that once in a while. Guan Gong help in job/business, Kuan Yin Ma...helps in everything, Tai Seng Yeah last time got prob in house, invite in, then one day it crack for not reason (supposedly something tried to enter but successfully block), believe it or not, it helps.

How high is the discount? Note that year 2010, means the resale value also drop by 1 year. That is abt 5K on avg. So if the discount is only 5K more than the current discount on 2011 PE, then no point. Coz in the end its going to cost you the same amt on resale value AND that is beside the car already left in stockyard for a year liao. Unless you get a discount of 8-10K (coz PE 2011 also has 1K - 3.5K discount), don't even bother considering it.

That is unless your budget is so constraint, if don't have that high discount, you cannot buy PE 2011 at current discount, then got car is better than no car lor. Assuming its a new car and no major hidden issues with it.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 29 2011, 04:23 PM