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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V16, Saga FLX SE 1.6 -> PRESSURE YOUR PEERS

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xshiro
post Oct 18 2011, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ Oct 18 2011, 12:22 PM)
yea... everytime you follow the SC car services they like blood sucker, suck your money kao kao... then use the money they sucked to pay for the warranty parts... but still they will earn alot... u can go outside to service your car... which you can save more than RM100++ 1 time... seriously...
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i still able to claim steering rack warranty eventhough i change engine, and never service at their sc for a very long time.. tongue.gif
xshiro
post Oct 18 2011, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ Oct 18 2011, 04:09 PM)
Yu're very lucky, Bro!
My neighbour cld not even claim the 2+ yrs BLM MT gear lever spring which failed, making the lever so loose!! And he nvr missed a service @SC!
Told me his ole Sunny 120Y nvr had such prob even at time when he sold it!!
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depends on SC, i went COE near Kesas icon_rolleyes.gif


Added on October 18, 2011, 4:51 pmbut the spring is easy fix ..wont even cost you rm10..

you can try use a modified harder spring...much better

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 18 2011, 04:51 PM
xshiro
post Oct 18 2011, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 18 2011, 07:28 PM)
Define problems.

No car is perfect. So is this. I wouldn't say major problems, only minor teething ones.
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i know one problem with cvt, its not using chain belt right? then hard to BOT..hehe
xshiro
post Oct 18 2011, 08:49 PM

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recovery from overheating is a problem?
xshiro
post Oct 24 2011, 05:52 PM

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QUOTE(ch@ich@i @ Oct 24 2011, 05:40 PM)
im going to change my spark plugs to denso iridium , but im confused to choose which model of the spark plug is suitable to use in BLM.

i read many people were using IT20, but then the mechanics/foreman recommended using IK16 who mentioned IT20 is not suitable in BLM.

so kindly please advise which is the best for BLM. IT20 or IK16? thanks.
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use IT20 is fine...IK16 is hotter than stock heat range...nice pickup in the low rev but your engine will be hotter in the higher rev...not healthly for your engine, your engine will be prone to pre-ignition...dont post here later ur piston got hole..

on my car, i rather use IT22 icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 24 2011, 06:01 PM
xshiro
post Oct 24 2011, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 24 2011, 07:19 PM)
it's IT20....IT20 is for campro engine...satria neo also use it
by searching a while in google...IK16 is for toyota engine/perodua


Added on October 24, 2011, 7:20 pm
whats the difference between IT20 and IT22?
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heat range

http://www.ngk.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range
xshiro
post Oct 25 2011, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 24 2011, 09:30 PM)
so it's colder is it?
hmm....never think of this when i buy mine..cuz i just find one that suits the engine
but i did recall IT20 and IT22 when i want to buy cuz i remember someone use be4
but search search...all say IT20
after install no difference at all...just it last very long...no need frequent changes and save labour fee
but it did resolve the engine crank 3 times problem...almost resolve
but no complain cuz i got my IT20 with a very cheap price
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IT22 is colder, if using hi compression piston or turbocharged u need this.

16/20 is the index for stock heat range..and NGK will be 5/6.

and starting up problem is solved because your new plug is clean. no carbon deposit.
xshiro
post Oct 25 2011, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(scofield @ Oct 25 2011, 05:33 PM)
drive shaft problem?  hmm.gif
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it seems so
xshiro
post Oct 25 2011, 08:00 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 25 2011, 07:46 PM)
Wonderful car, this BLM.

Got Impreza, Civic FD, Audi....
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i like the bumper, its nice.. but i dont like honda logo on proton car...i dont like wannabe tongue.gif
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 11:47 AM

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v12kompressor, flx has iafm+, better than older iafm.

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 28 2011, 11:47 AM
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(monster2020 @ Oct 28 2011, 11:31 AM)
Adding colling pipe will help ?

if additional oil rediator may be will help but just pipe ?

any body done this upgrade already ?
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i suggest, just do it, the additional pipe might improve the flow. maybe existing cooler is good enough.
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 12:30 PM

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k&n, i used to have it...sold it now use paper filter..

thinking about getting simota filter..

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 28 2011, 12:40 PM
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(NewbieBetta @ Oct 28 2011, 12:47 PM)
why did u sell it?
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felt i didnt need it..and needed to fund my 1.6 conversion sweat.gif
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 28 2011, 05:25 PM)
u using mitsu oil filter?
i asked the one selling liqui moly...already answered yes can use fully syn
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i used toyota oil filter last time..no problem, oil filter is kinda generic
xshiro
post Oct 28 2011, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 28 2011, 05:39 PM)
o'really?...never knew that
i thought specific car have different oil filter(different engine)
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got compatible ones..
xshiro
post Oct 31 2011, 12:04 PM

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actually there is benefit of using ron97, although you compression ratio is the same, with proper tuning, you can advance your ignition timing that improves the power abit.

in this case, when you are using ron97, the ecu will auto-adjust the timing. but may take a day to adjust, maybe this is the reason why when you shift from 97 to 95, you will feel vibration or pinging...because the ecu havent adjusted the timing or maybe the ecu is adjusting the timing until it knocks, then retard to safer level

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 31 2011, 01:30 PM
xshiro
post Oct 31 2011, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(xandras @ Oct 31 2011, 01:59 PM)
I hope we're on the same page and the same topic here, but I can't quite understand your theory.

The reason why an ECU retards the timing when knocking is present in a low octane combustion is to prevent damage to the engine internals. Delaying the timing by a full day could possibly damage the engine, the most crucial parts being the pistons. As such, the knock sensor detects knocking and the ECU retards the timing almost immediately to prevent further damage. A bad knocking/air pocket detonations can punch a hole through the piston, rendering the whole engine useless.
Output is not the same if you're running RON 95 on a car that requires RON 97 for full performance. Get 2 separate dyno charts on a same performance car (preferably Civic FD Type-R, as it is NA) running on 2 different RONs of petrol, and you will see the difference in the powerband, peak HP & torque.
In Malaysia still can find RON 92? hmm.gif


Added on October 31, 2011, 2:12 pm
And you're driving...? Saga? A good AFR should be a balance of FC & power, which translates to around 14.5:1.
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yes, we are on the same page, what i mean, although you dont increase the compression ratio of the engine, there is still some benefits from higher octane fuel, where higher octane fuel can tolerate more advance ignition timing. by this way, you are making abit more power in the low rev on a stock engine. not much though

sorry i dont really mean delaying the timing for a full day, but it takes few kms before you actually feel power from higher octance fuel. from my last higher compression engine (11:1), i did pump ron95, and can hear pinging, but i didnt blow yet, drove it a day, then switched to ron97, i still felt power loss, but next day, the car has no more pinging and the car has more power.

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 31 2011, 03:06 PM
xshiro
post Oct 31 2011, 03:18 PM

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QUOTE(Kent Goh @ Oct 31 2011, 02:31 PM)
user posted image
Here is the pic of my Dyno graph. Until 6.5k RPM AFR almost at 12.5-13. I do agree with you caltex give me more power but FC not that satisfy.
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stock campro is made to run lean (lean-burn), to 'save fuel'

but dangerous if you upgrade the CC of the engine, the ecu will kill the engine.
xshiro
post Oct 31 2011, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(Kent Goh @ Oct 31 2011, 03:18 PM)
As i know the higher of the ron means it can stand for higher heat, so high compression car need higher ron to bring out the engine performance & lower ron make engine knocking.

If said higher ron doesnt give more power i think this is depends on driving condition & weather. Normal driving ron95 & sport driving ron97.

I do add octane booster with ron95 when i go for track days.


Added on October 31, 2011, 3:21 pm

But if with piggy back then should be no problem right?
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ya, need piggyback. because most ppl want convert their 1.3 to 1.6.

This post has been edited by xshiro: Oct 31 2011, 03:26 PM
xshiro
post Oct 31 2011, 03:30 PM

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oh my mistake, 12 is rich, higher than 14 is lean.. sorry..it suppose to be rich at higher rpm

i dont have piggyback yet, planning for ems-1 or smt8

at the moment i seldom drive fast. below 5k

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