Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 Vinyl Flooring, Been There, Done That? Experiences?

views
     
jaycee1
post Oct 10 2011, 12:39 PM

AFK
*******
Senior Member
2,487 posts

Joined: Jul 2008


While I can't speak for home owners,

I do have projects that have specified Vinyl flooring for commercial application.

The advantage of LVT over timber and laminated flooring is that they are resistant to water. It also provides a softer feel and warmth compared to traditional tiled surfaces.

The wear layer of LVT is softer to it is more prone to scratches but in a normal residential use, it hold up well against normal use and has the advantage of easily replacing individual tiles without too much hassle.



I will be installing some LVT in my kitchen/bathroom wet areas once MPPJ get off thier ass and process my strata title transfer for my (would be) condo. Will report again when done.
jaycee1
post Oct 10 2011, 04:53 PM

AFK
*******
Senior Member
2,487 posts

Joined: Jul 2008


QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 10 2011, 01:47 PM)
My initial plan is to use Vinyl Flooring on my study / working room, than my contractor told me this Vinyl Flooring maybe good for few years and later it may have pop up issue "like pregnant". The newer design and material may have less poping problem, but you need to make sure the floor base are flat, if wavy the feeling will not be nice.
*
QUOTE(droo00 @ Oct 10 2011, 02:12 PM)
Thanks guys!
So work must be done prior to laying them down.
Anyone's got 1st hand experience on those vinyl "wooden look" flooring?
How it holds up in day to day use, discoloring, etc?
What if u accidentally crack/scratch a piece?  Is replacing them easy or it would mean redoing a big part of the flooring?
*
Yes, depending on how well the subfloor has been prepared, you may need to do a leveling screed. The more level the subfloor is, the better it looks and less chances of it delaminating from the floor after several years.

Regardless of what flooring you put, sub floor preparation is the most important.

A point to note is, while vinyl is water resistant, the glue sometimes is not. So it depends on the contractor to use appropriate or high quality glue.
jaycee1
post Oct 14 2011, 01:14 PM

AFK
*******
Senior Member
2,487 posts

Joined: Jul 2008


QUOTE(droo00 @ Oct 13 2011, 11:28 AM)
Retkev,
Cement screen means a layer of cement on top of the tiles?
Roughly how much will that cost?  Is that a must?


Added on October 14, 2011, 11:18 amAny advise to whether should put in the inbuilts first (e.g. built in cabinets, etc) then do the flooring or flooring first?
*
The bare minimum is you have to fill up the grout lines. Even then, its not just the cement screed, a good vinyl contractor will also score/sand the tiles, so the glue/screed will have a good surface to adhere to. Prices should be about $2.00 sf for leveling and surface prep. Less if less work to be done, more if your floor is really bad.



For vinyl you can do your cabinets first, because it is easy to cut the vinyl into shape without leaving gaps. Its preferable, as some furniture contractors can be really careless about the floor and end up damaging it when they move tools and cabinetry in and out of the house.
jaycee1
post Mar 1 2012, 09:27 AM

AFK
*******
Senior Member
2,487 posts

Joined: Jul 2008


Vinyl Flooring
Made of plastic/PVC core laminated with design film and transparent wear layer.

Laminated wood.
Made with HDF core board, laminated with design film and transparent wear layer.


In actuality, they are quite similar, with the different of HDF core and Vinyl core. Vinyl typically is 2.5-3mm and comes with either tile form or roll form, while Laminates come in planks from 8mm - 12mm thickness.

There is also vinyl flooring that is designed to be installed floating, like those 4-5mm thick with click/lock joints.

 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0221sec    0.88    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 17th December 2025 - 11:21 AM