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 HONDA CIVIC Club V11, My VTEC goes BWAAAAAHH!!!!

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unitron
post Aug 3 2012, 11:49 PM

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Ehh.. I thought lower center of gravity is better. Not higher. Funny those American.
unitron
post Aug 12 2012, 12:21 AM

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QUOTE(stupid_piggy @ Aug 10 2012, 12:27 AM)
Any Honda 1.7 owner here?
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same chassis but mine is 2.0
Have several friends who owned the 1.7
unitron
post Aug 13 2012, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 13 2012, 03:05 AM)
Finally got the K20a swap started, found out that the method of grounding fuel pump will make fuel pump constantly running at key on situation. Might have to figure out a way to use a timer to set it to run constantly ONLY after the engine is running.
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Why u need to do that? Just curious...
unitron
post Aug 14 2012, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 14 2012, 01:34 AM)
So you don't run out your battery when engine off and using headlights/other electricals for whatever purpose. It's a small matter if you don't daily drive though.
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ic ic... but u will need the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel lines before u start the car anyway right?

Why u need timer to get it to run constantly only AFTER the engine is running?... a bit confuse.. rclxub.gif
unitron
post Aug 16 2012, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 16 2012, 02:05 AM)
because it works that way in the original system? Not carburetor era with mechanical pumps le
The timer is for priming (pressurizing the fuel pump)

Anyway, contacted Ktuned. If I want it to prime properly, need to run K-pro, and disable immo, and it will convert the E1 into grounded input with 5 secs prime timer. With stock JDM ecu, this feature is unavailable.
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err.. I think I'm more confused now... rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

Luckily didn't have to do anything on the ECU except a/f ratio, ignition and valve timing tuning for my K20A conversion. biggrin.gif
unitron
post Aug 16 2012, 11:07 PM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 16 2012, 10:26 PM)
Well, this problem with priming is only present when using stock ECU, since you're using K-Pro, you don't have this problem.

I'm not sure if you noticed, but the fuel pump works like this, when on key, engine off, it grounds the fuel pump relay for about 5 secs to pressurize the rail, when you start your engine, the ECU detects your engine is running and grounds the relay indefinitely until you turn your engine off, when engine is running, fuel pump is always running constantly.

Anyway, I think I may be able to use a 555 monostable circuit and two relays (or three?) to create a custom pump prime circuit using a relay to ground the Pin8 on the main relay, and using a secondary to ground when engine is running, triggered by the charge light. Still trying to figure  out combine the two so that I save using an extra relay, Another relay is already used a momentary switch, so I have to figure out how to wire the SPDT relay so that I don't have to make it three. Still chicken scratches on paper though. Will see how it works out. Since these are just circuit relays they're the tiny types, not the huge automotive ones.
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No, I'm not using K-pro, my ECU totally NOT compatible with any Hondata stuff. I wish i can use K-pro or the FlashPro, but too bad, cannot. cry.gif

aha... that make sense.

Instead of using the famous 555 timer (bring back memories from my old college days), why not just use a Microcontroller to do it. An 8-bit microcontroller is more then sufficient, not too sure what signals you gonna need to tap to trigger it. Just a thought. hmm.gif
unitron
post Aug 17 2012, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 17 2012, 02:10 AM)
Nice, but my electronics kung fool not so high level to use microcontrollers. Signals are easy, figured it out, like I mentioned above, total cost of so far not exceed RM30 lol. Took a 555 from another timer I had lying around.

Just want to try out my electronics skills really, the fuel pump running all the time is not a problem actually. Going to try out different sections of the circuit tommorow to see how well it works. Had to convert the switched signal to a 1/2 second relay trigger, so it's actually a few seperate circuits combined together on the veroboard. So going to check each one before connecting them all together with 12-14.x V on car tommorow to see if I got the resistance and capacitance right for the 5 secs relay trigger.

Anyway, I'm not sure, but I heard the PRC ecu can't be K-pro-ed as well.

BTW, just curious what management you run?
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My ECU is an even more unheard of one... it's a PNN.

Running using E-manage Ultimate for fuel and ignition tuning with V-manage for valve timing tuning.
If there was a record for the most underpowered K20A in history of engine building and tuning, mine would win hands down.

Well whichever circuitry you are more familiar with to get the job done will do. I'm just more partial to Microcontroller based system since I've more experience with them.
unitron
post Aug 18 2012, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 18 2012, 12:18 AM)
PNN? Never heard of it lol, using currently is PRC, DC5 ECU.
E-manage eh? What car are you running it on? EG also?
Anyway, from what little I know about the K20a VTC system is that each ECU has it's own VTC map, and it's not similar since different K20a have different VTC limits.

Anyway, not expecting much with this K20a either, my friend just running it stock since it makes B20B power with all stock internals, no need tuning and bother about reliability, just PPAG (put petrol and go) Thinking it will hit 200-210 in stock form.

Running dual O2s as well, with the diag connector intact, so can use OBD scanners as well, just like the new DC5/FD, but on EG body lol.

Already he's talking about ITBs while the car still being built up, but cost of K-pro + ITB not cheap lol. At first say want to run standard, now already going out of control. Dunno who poison lol.
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When I saw PNN the first time.. I was going.. wtfffffff.... ohmy.gif shocking.gif

Mine an ET.. most will know it as an ES... dunno why the chassis code is ET.

Like I said, i've the most underpowered K20A in history... it's no where near 200. It's better to not even mention it.

unitron
post Aug 18 2012, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 18 2012, 10:25 AM)
Oh, ES model. you modded in a type R from DC5? or just the stock K20a? The stock K20A in the original ES only had VTC, no cam phasing I think. My cousin got the millenium black limited edition 2.0 ES, I think HP around 160ish.

I think the ET is the local CKD model, like EG, local chassis code is EH, EK = EJ, etc.
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I modded a Type-R head and engine internals from the FD2R. Mine should be the same as your cousin, it was a limited edition 2.0 ES that comes only in black, if not mistaken only 150 units made. But the chassis code is ET1. Just very minor cosmetic differences compared to the ES.

VTC is the same as cam phasing. Basically the 'i' in iVTEC.

Just that the variable advance/retard angles is smaller for stock K20A3 compared to the K20A type-R. Which is why variable valve timing management will be needed.
unitron
post Aug 18 2012, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(sadako-chan @ Aug 18 2012, 06:45 PM)
Oh yeah, cam phasing got, but no cam switching.  sweat.gif  lol Mixed up the terms

I guessed right then, since the Millenium black ES was the only limited edition car around that seems likely to have a strange ECU where no one else has heard of or used, My cousin's car is still around, but my cousin downgraded to EG, and gave/sold the car to his sister. I remember it was quite expensive during that time, 120K+? forgot. His EG is better equipped though, the ES he just drove around stock.

But if living in KL, I think I also will sell my older gen car, due to the popularity with thieves.
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Yup, u guessed right. rclxms.gif

Honda should be sued for misleading the public with it's i-VTEC system which they like to plaster on all their 'regular' cars. tongue.gif
Don't have high cam like a 'true' VTEC system.
unitron
post Aug 19 2012, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Aug 18 2012, 10:17 PM)
puasa is over....so to my muslim civic brothers n sisters...selamat hari raya!!!

to non muslims...happy holidays!

drive safe!
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Selamat Hari Raya!!!

Hopefully no saman. tongue.gif

unitron
post Aug 20 2012, 02:52 AM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Aug 19 2012, 09:10 PM)
laugh.gif no saman yet n insyallah no saman later on oso... coz ill be driving my sister's car for outstation travels..hahaha

cant drive my civic simply bcoz i had a f-ed up night last night... took the car out at about 3am for a quick rempit session on federal highway and while in 4th gear @ 7k RPM...my clutch kaputed...put it in gear and tekan minyak, absolutely nothing...

i can select gears so im pretty sure the gb is still good...plus when my car came out of the workshop a couple of weeks ago mechanic said he feels like my clutch cannot support already.

put in 1st gear... or any gear...release clutch..n nothing...car doesnt move n doesnt stall..clutch pedal feels like normal and all fluids are good...no leaks and no pump failures

was stranded at the side of federal highway for about 30 minutes coz couldnt find the number for tow trucks..plus there were groups of rempits going around....luckily none of them had the "robbing mood"

thankfully a police patrol car came by and i got them to help me out...but it even took them quite a number of calls to get a tow truck for me.
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adui... ohmy.gif sad.gif

So sorry to hear that, plus during Raya time. Hopefully it's a simple fix.
Still standard clutch or racing clutch?

Hopefully just the clutch and not the entire gb kaput.
unitron
post Aug 23 2012, 12:06 AM

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Anybody got experience with S90 throttle bodies ?
Are they reliable ?
unitron
post Aug 23 2012, 09:18 AM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Aug 23 2012, 12:53 AM)
im using it...came with the car... reliable yes...but the spring is a lil hard. so when u press the pedal, it feels a lil stiff (for throttle cable....drive by wire wa tatau)

better to get the Skunk2 Alpha... for B series, pricing is about the same.
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hmm... no choice, mine is throttle cable... drive by wire is for the FD.
I want to test out 70mm and see if it will help.

Skunk2 sure cost a bit of a bomb. Plus mine is K-series.

This post has been edited by unitron: Aug 23 2012, 10:06 AM
unitron
post Aug 23 2012, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Aug 23 2012, 01:16 PM)
try n research the pricing for Skunk2 Alpha series.. dont bother with the pro series and compared with the S90... if its affordable then apa lagi?
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Too expensive the Skunk2 Pro Series, there is no Alpha series for K20A.... I just got the S90, will try to install tomorrow if got time.

QUOTE(ReidenLing @ Aug 23 2012, 08:39 PM)
bro i having some weird prob...just got back from kampung and already realise this...so here's the prob...

I cruising highway for about 2 hour la* water temp below center*,and then when i stop up at R&R letting engine idle with open bonnet * water temp naik* cry.gif cruise highway again drop down below centre sweat.gif
Then reach pusat bandar have slightly of traffic jam water temp gone up again doh.gif  Reach house let it sleep and check tomorrow morning...spare tank water almost dry off d but radiator water still have...

Checked
1-Radiator fan running well but
sometimes Hot air coming out and sometimes Cold air were out hmm.gif  hmm.gif

i wonder why...??
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I had a similar problem, turn out I had a small leak in the pipes.... took I think like 2 weeks to find the source, because by that time so much had leak that there is a blueish green trail from the coolant.

Check everything, especially the joints.

I hope you used coolant and not just water, easier to find with coolant, if water will just evaporate from the hot engine bay.

This post has been edited by unitron: Aug 23 2012, 10:12 PM
unitron
post Aug 24 2012, 11:55 AM

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pour in coolant if haven't done so yet... it will leave residue after the water evaporate to help locate the leak.

Hopefully not leaking into engine..... which means you should check your engine oil also and see any funny color.
unitron
post Aug 24 2012, 10:03 PM

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QUOTE(ReidenLing @ Aug 24 2012, 08:44 PM)
yup got use coolant ....saw it leaking some above from my spare tank there...and behind no idea where especially located behind my radiator fan hmm.gif

Hmm check engine oil for some funny colour..??you mean check the dip stick ah bro...??i got use coolant bro till kering no idea fly where d haizzz sweat.gif
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look like you found the source or sources... rclxms.gif i think no others except the ones u noticed sweat.gif

Yeah.. check the dip stick, but looks like it's external from what you saw.


unitron
post Aug 26 2012, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(Arkaine @ Aug 26 2012, 08:05 PM)
in 4 months I been spending money on my eg...

1st steering pump, then tie rod end and arm link, after that.. bateri dead (used 3 years) bought a new one (time to change). Last week the alternator kong, when I got the car today, the brake gave up... almost hit a car in front, had to climb the side walk to evade it...

suspected the brake line got air... as the pedal getting lower to the floor to hit the brake.

Bleed it just now and the brake fluid won't come down from the master cylinder reservoir. Suspected the Master cylinder brake, or the booster...
dunno...
to do list

Suspension, Front Upper Arms, Radiator, Cigarette socket, rear antenna (stuck in the middle perhaps the gear wornout),
rear driver side power window motor, front passenger power window switch. Rust on the rear signal lamp as my car always parked at the sea side..

Hope can fix them soon... demn hard to get 'em parts here...
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errrrgghh.... shocking.gif that's a long to do list.

sea air is bad for all metallic stuff... I used to live by the sea side for 12 years. You wouldn't believe where you can find salt deposits in normal household appliances.
unitron
post Aug 27 2012, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(JV88 @ Aug 27 2012, 11:24 AM)
Are these a common problems in 8th Gen Civic?

1. Wheel bearing problem
2. Steering rack problem
3. Disk brake warped
4. Anybody face rattling dashboard?
5. Is it really poor NVH?

Current Civic owner, please enlighten me on these issues.
Thanks guys.
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1. Wheel bearing problem --> should not be, but can easily check, change if worn
2. Steering rack problem --> dunno bout this hmm.gif
3. Disk brake warped --> I think common previously, dunno if Honda already fixed the problem
4. Anybody face rattling dashboard? --> Last I heard for first batch, this was caused by engine mount problem
5. Is it really poor NVH? --> Dunno, much better NVH compared to my ES. tongue.gif
unitron
post Aug 27 2012, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(jasonlts @ Aug 27 2012, 01:23 PM)
Hi, does anyone know how to repair wiper scratches on windscreen ? there's one long line now sad.gif
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'accidentally' break it and claim new one... tongue.gif tongue.gif

You can try those windscreen repair services and see if they can polish it out. Don't have a specific one to recommend.

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