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 HONDA CIVIC Club V11, My VTEC goes BWAAAAAHH!!!!

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unitron
post Nov 6 2013, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(Dennos @ Nov 4 2013, 09:27 AM)
not suitable for NGV,  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
valve seat insert loose
*
can you elaborate further? hmm.gif
why can't the valve seat withstand NGV combustion in the cylinder?
unitron
post Nov 11 2013, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(coOLR3xz @ Nov 11 2013, 01:32 PM)
finally i get a bit worry on my 93' civic and need advise from the forumers

1) recently my car start to rev itself in the morning when i switched the transmission to neutral. it wont happen immediately when i start my car in the morning, it will start to auto rev maybe after 5 min like i stopping at some traffic light near my house and when i switched to neutral. revving btw 1k-1.5k. i think this will only stop when the car is completely warm up.

2) this happen 2nd times already. when my car running around 80kph at the highway, and suddenly the engine light flash up and i lose throttle to my car(no response from my gas pedal). but after a few seconds the engine check light go off and it go back to normal.

i not sure whether these 2 problem is related or not but i really worry is one day my car engine check light show up and wont go off again when i am on the middle of the road. the 1st problem i have mentioned to a mechanics and he didnt solved it, damn so untrustable!

anyone here know or experienced this problem let me know how to solve it or give me some recommendation for some trustable workshop pls cry.gif
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Maybe it's the IACV (idle air control valve) or MAP (Manifold Absolute pressure) sensor problem... hmm.gif
or even a vacuum leak...

Take to trustable workshop that can scan for fault codes. Preferably one that is used to dealing with lots of old Civics.

I'll have workshop to recommend.. but it may take several visits to find what exactly is causing it.
Sometime this kind of problem, one visit not enough. Let me know and I'll PM u.

ps : I'm not an expert for that Civic model year, so please understand I could be dead wrong.
unitron
post Nov 16 2013, 01:11 AM

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QUOTE(Victor3010 @ Nov 15 2013, 09:39 PM)
I wonder if it would be still worth to get the Civic now? Will there be any facelift/update for 2014? I see the 2.0 version only 10HP difference, is that significant enough in comparison to the 1.8?

For me, preferably would be fuel economy as I think 2.0 don't need to rev so much to get the same power right?
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generally rule of thumb is bigger CC means more air, means need more petrol to burn.

If you drive slow, around the city, low rev, it's about the low end torque... not about high end Hp used by marketing to sell the car.

#1 thing controlling fuel economy is your right foot (or whichever foot u use to control the accelerator tongue.gif )

For me, I'm about powaahhh.. I don't really care about fuel economy so much... Even then normally in city I drive max 3000 RPM only.. cruising on highway normally 160 km/h - 180 km/h also max 4000 RPM. So it's still your right foot you want to accelerate like mad, keep jabbing accelerator rev to 7000 RPM then of course fuel economy suffer.
unitron
post Nov 16 2013, 01:14 AM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Nov 15 2013, 03:00 PM)
when i start my car early morning, the engine have a sort of very loud 'ketak ketak ketak sound'. as the engine got warmer, the sound is less audible. do i need to get my valves clearance / tappet adjust to specs?
or is there other problems?

another problem is i once drive and during a slow down, the whole car shakes. i stop by at the side. and put the car to N and then P. the shakes reduces. the i off the engine. wait a while start the car up. no more shaking. whats the cause?
*
Just guessing here...
Engine mounting and transmission mounting already checked ??
All 4 cylinder firing correctly ?....
unitron
post Nov 27 2013, 09:20 PM

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Guys.. need some advice.

For several months now, I've been trying to solve an idling problem with my K20 Civic.

Basically the car cannot idle for extended period... maybe can idle for 5mins before engine just die by itself. Sometimes in heavy traffic, stop/go the car just die. Same for traffic lights sometimes.

What have been done...
Throttle body cleaned several times...
IACV checked/cleaned..
Diagnostic check several times (I've access to an OBD2 scan tool).. no fault code
Cannot find any vacuum leaks..
TPS adjusted to give correct voltage when throttle fully closed... 0.48 V

note : car using throttle cable and not e-throttle like FD series.

My #1 suspect is still got something to do with the TPS = throttle position sensor, since adjusting it in anyway greatly affect the idling.

Anyone experience TPS problem before ? or have similar idling problem? rclxub.gif
unitron
post Dec 6 2013, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(KilJim @ Dec 4 2013, 02:03 AM)
Hi guys, anyone has experience driving both the 1.8 and 2.0 versions of the FD civic?

Wondering if there's a significant difference in power going to the 2.0
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Ok, this is just based on my short drive of the FD 1.8L and 2.0L
The driving feeling, the difference in power is significant...

But you should try it yourself.

Another thing you might wanna consider is that if you intend to go aftermarket modifications later (like me rclxm9.gif ). There are plenty of parts available for the 2.0L engine... not so much for the 1.8L.... since the FD 2.0L is is the same family and design as the Type-R and Integra DC5 icon_rolleyes.gif
unitron
post Dec 6 2013, 07:15 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Dec 6 2013, 03:59 PM)
civic type r 1.6 turbo charged  drool.gif
*
Type-R will be 2.0L turbocharged...

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/11/19/honda-n...s-civic-type-r/

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