yeah... ombined with hondas beautiful ratios... they are.

unfortunately..sometimes while cruising on highway... .5th gear feels like 3rd gear for us B20 runners

i asked in the dc5 group... one owner said 62.5mm


This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jun 27 2012, 01:22 PM

super90 je laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

i would never want a J32 conversion unless its for a drag car... that huge V6 is gonna weigh down the front and ur gonna be screaming unda unda undaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

J32A

NSX uses C series

mostly taken from accord

should be ok me thinks... or mebbe u just have a faulty punp...or ur pump isnt sufficient for the upgraded GSR engine...kasi hentam walbro 1 shot la bro.. though recommend to get the car retuned

my ex-B16A ran the tracks with stock fuel pump without issues....

not too sure... but ur case could also be other factors... like running 6-7 laps on high revs may be abit much for the engine...

a friend with a B16B has an oil pressure meter.. and his oil sump is also baffled...

corners... pressure drops even with the baffled sump

ive only ever used 7.....even come out factory oso 7.

anyway... anyone wants Spoon Plug cables for B series?

i wanna downgrade la...need the money

its in my siggy

RM700

neither...

those 2 disappeared dunno how long already from this thread

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jun 29 2012, 12:19 PM

not all la... i no newbie mah...




Small V or Big V? u did the conversion urself? wat halfcut?

nice.... i think need to call for a TT soon...

oi Reiden! ud like that right?? hahhahahahaha

poisoning is easy... depends on wat ur targetting for ur car

if TT i bring kenari only la... my engine is on the workshop floor and is in pieces.. heheheh

not rebuild....more like repair...

something wrong with the conrod/conrod bearing..tak tak tak tak tak sound...

if got time tomorrow will go n check n find out wats da story

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 4 2012, 11:15 PM

ive already had BC rods...

anyway... bearing koyak... gotta shove in new bearings...


doubt theres any... the FD1 has been discontinued right?

go for it... EF with B18C-R is good...strong engine in a lightweight body.. plus...aftermarket stuff for EFs is alot easier to find now compared to when i was playing with EFs about 10 years ago....back then cant even find brand new adjustables... traction bar non-existent.. now, very easy to get.

though i do recommend getting the chassis strengthened....either by bars of by spot welding.. i find it abit soft....my ex-EF3 had its chassis strengthened by the ex-owner.. and it feels significantly better in corners compared to my friends original EF9.

only downside to EFs is that bodyparts and interior parts can get quite expensive nowadays.

another solution is to look into 4-door EGs... with that budget confirm can get something with B16A... or if ur lucky B18C GSR or even Type R...or u can always buy some stock cheapo 4-door EG for about 12-15k and do the conversion urself....more money involved... but definitely more satisfaction.

---

Added on July 7, 2012, 11:18 pmoh yeah... one more thing forgot to mention... when looking into buying EFs.. make sure the chassis is EF chassis and not the local model ED (though there are some very good EDs out there)

reason for this is EFs come with anti-rust from factory while the ED doesnt...even if the ED already has had anti-rust done by one of the owners.. its still a very old car..and u cant really tell wats going on under the new layer of anti-rust

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 7 2012, 11:18 PM

this one im not too sure... i was told about the EF chassis by a friend whos an EF fanatic and someone whos quite known to be a sifoo in EFs...

but my EG is actually an EH... havent seen a single rust anywhere on my chassis..

if theres rust, it can always be fixed...but i personally would avoid. rust repair can get quite expensive...especially when u end up discovering even more rust... the car u posted does look good (ive never come across it, coz i dont look at ads for EFs)...but aside from the rust repair... theres still more mods u can do..the engine still can be modded...hondata or crome can be installed since its running on OBD1 etc etc.... but i personally think that EF is expensive.. i wouldnt pay that kinda price for an EF no matter how immaculate... not unless it has a K series in it....at most mebbe 25k....coz end of the day....its still a 23 year old car.

i once went to see an EF in puncak alam when a friend was looking for it.... actually it was an ED... it was immaculate.. though it had minor accident before....and i still mean immaculate.. he even did the anti rust... the car also had ALL legal papers including engine and sunroof approval...it had a stock 96spec B18C-R though with the 4.4 gearbox....but still... we told our friend, the ef sifoo, about the car.. he mentioned that he knows the car and the owner and he really liked that car...but the ED chassis turned him off. which is when he told us about the anti rust thingy

if the swap was done correctly u shouldnt get any issues...good thing about honda is that theyre pretty much swappable when it comes to engine, wiring, suspension, brakes etc etc.

spot welding....yes u will get issues with JPJ... but when they stop u, im pretty sure theyll concentrate on the loud exhaust instead... but i heard that during puspakom check for name transfer, if theres spot welding, theyll fail it. BUT...from what ive heard it can still be passed with the right papers.. u gotta go through some paperwork thingy to tell them the spot welding is not a sambung thing or some shit like that.....when i had my EF, the whole puspakom check for name transfer didnt exist yet..so it wasnt an issue back then.

bars... front strut, rear strut, rear c-pillar...fender bars... rear anti roll bar and front anti roll bar if u can find.. should be enough...perhaps a room bar as well though i dont see the need.

anyway... u can also get a good chassis/body/interior EF with B16A...and later on plonk in a B18C-R engine kosong... this would cost u about 5-6k siap pasang. inclusive of new timing belt...though u may need to get some form of aftermarket management like E-manage (1.4k) to properly tune the engine...the B16A ECU mapping will not be good for B18C-R...even if the ECU has already had a spoon chip or mugen or watever brand chip... a programmable ECU is still better n more reliable coz u know that the map in it is meant for ur engine... branded chips u dunno the map for wat engine n u dunno if it suits ur engine or not....or if the EF u bought already has OBD1, crome is RM550 from Avantech, and hondata is 2.5k siap pasang siap tune from almost everywhere
....or u could just convert the B16A to a B20 hybrid for about half the price of the B18C-R... but B20 abit manja la

only downside about getting EFs with B16A is that they most likely come with the Y1 or S1 gearbox which is a 4.2 final drive ratio... which to me, is the biggest downside of the Small VTEC B16A...unless they already put in a 4.4FD gearbox like the YS1 (which is the ONLY 4.4FD clutch cable gearbox...the rest are on clutch pump)


HERE is another possible EF for u to look at...dunno sold or not.

could also take a look at THIS ONE

THIS says ori EF9....but if ori.. then im wondering whats up with the CRX dashboard..

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 8 2012, 01:48 AM