I got 4 external HDD for my backup files, 160GB, 500GB, 500GB and 1TB....

1 of the 500GB full of HD Grade 3 and 5 movies

Had 2 copies of backup image of my laptop in both 500GB ext HDD when newly purchased a year earlier. Thats how careful I am in my backups. Only the HD Grade 5 movies cannot keep 2 copies....too many and too big...

As an advice, relying on the color of the oil is NOT a good indication of when to change oil. My City now using Idemitsu 5W30 FS is even darker than that, only at 1K mileage. Not sure if its a fake coz get cheaper from outside but idemitsu HQ guys say should be ok coz Idemitsu FS no fake yet in market coz only distribute to workshop, no selling at part shop. So far engine still as quiet as first change, so ignore it first.

Back to your subject, try changing your oil at 5K mileage even if the color of your oil is clear. Note that clean color at 5K mileage either means engine clean or its not doing its jobs of suspending the contaminant. Either way, the addictives could only last 5K, exceeding 5K, it will start to degrade drastically. So change before it degrade.

FS might be able to stretch to 7K at most, IMO but I would not recommend it if you want optimum engine oil performance. Semi and mineral same change at 5K. Of course you can stretch to 10K mileage...but what damage it did to your engine, you can only find out later.

If only relying on color of oil, its seems to be quite clean, not at final suspension load yet...thats for contaminant only, not counting other addictives wearing out such as engine cleaning, lubrication, anti-wear, etc.

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Added on September 17, 2011, 10:02 pmMy rear side window noise confirm officially solved.....for now. Not the rubber but as mentioned b4, its the 2 arms holding the door to the chassis. Adjusted the arm attached to the door, mention last time tighten size not correctly...

Now my front driver door got sound, maybe its the metal thingy you mentioned b4 between the door knob and gun. Some more my driver seat belt hook also making chipping noise...quite noisy...haih...solve one major one, pop up 2 minor ones...

Anyway, Vignesz,

If its directly from rear, its still could be the chair, just use masking tape for tape the MIDDLE hood wrap it entirely) and probably the middle seat hook at the bottom as well. I wrapped all 3 hooks, left middle right..to be safe tho the left and right hook more difficult to close back after that...so for that I just wrap the middle of the hook only. So far so good.



This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 17 2011, 10:02 PM

Cannot blame them for overtaking.

Many does not have true experience of a convoy unless they're experienced club members who do that b4 ----> me....haha.

Even got a walkie for convoy purpose. Most of us members have one then...one safety car lead in front, one safety car at back to watch out for "stray"...if someone stray out from the convoy to overtake...back safety car will warn them out to get back in. There is a reason for lead safety car being there...to lead the way, watch out for dangerous situation, avoiding jams and most of all warn all members following behind abt anything untowards happening in front..

No walkie, then follow guai guai behind lead safety car....sure looks better with 1 dragon stretch of PE rather than all car swerving left right leaving the main lead car behind...

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Added on September 18, 2011, 11:34 amNote that you can only skim once or twice. After that, better change the disc out as it might thin to a level that compromise braking effectiveness. So normally I prefer NOT to skim UNLESS its confirm that the disc is uneven and causing problems.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 18 2011, 11:36 AM

Which idiot did not have sex after marriage????? Isn't that what marriage is all about...free sex and yours alone..

Thats why I insist on Tokio Marine when I bough the car. Luckily my SA has it. A fav among auto repair shop for ease of claims..

CC5 is entry level tyre. Not meant for hard cornering. For normal daily drive, grip is quite good..

btw, rear sliding generally means tyre tak da grip liao...botak liao kah....if botak, even RE2 also can buang...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 21 2011, 01:32 PM

Type that explanation before seeing your 40-50km/h speed....so not relevant anymore..

Btw....sometime new tyres also need some time to....what do you call it...forget...something like wear out the protective layer thingy...Grip might not be that great...unless a while later.

btw if rear suddenly slip like that, without rain, sand, etc....better check the tyres or your Vios rear wheel, anything faulty kah...coz at 40-50km/h....the only explanation if faulty within the car or tyres...but most likely sandy road. Happens to my nct5 in my city last time even at slower speed.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 21 2011, 01:38 PM

Not much knowledge of tyres...only some experience on the slipping issue. When the tyres slip, due to sands, the steering wheel is the only way to control it...unless your brother panic or it slips to near the the divider

That also means your brother might be driving too close or too fast (if can knock the divider, it is already too fast for a slow speed drive)...a bit careless when it happens and not regaining control. However cannot put fault coz depends on driving conditions, if it happens to me, I might be able to react fast enuf to counter the slip as I did b4....but then again I might just crash head long into it...

btw. If a lorry drive by fast, its wind CAN push VIOS causing it to slip, same can happen to City...coz both car light weighted wan...

Either that or ask your brother never to piss into the bush by the road side again...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 21 2011, 01:45 PM

If its a red dress wan....I don't think 'Jie Meh' works....

If ducktail, no effect. If install those high high way, sure got affect slightly on the performance. Negligible but its going to cost slightly more drag than usual. Should have not diff at acceleration and speed....maybe very very slightly more fc than b4 but as mentioned, might be negligible.

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Added on September 22, 2011, 10:41 amWhat is the point of the button if you still need to plug in the key? Turning on the key will be faster isn't it...better than plug in key, then move finger and press button.

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Added on September 22, 2011, 10:43 amIsn't 205kpa abit on the low side. Underpressure MIGHT cause tyre instability and at times slip...

50 or 60 degree turn and 40-50km/h on a underpressure tyre might have been the cause of slip then..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 22 2011, 10:43 AM

5 years warranty mah....no one else in the market can offer that type of warranty. My neighbour did it for his new 2.0 Forte. Mine is Magic Glare. Same sort of glass compound as Sierra but warranty and renew every 18 months or 2 years. The way I see it, Sierra Glow is more worth it BUT it does have some setback....ie...its far from my home (Klang), swirl maintenance have to book way in advance coz they super good business...I think I will stick to my Glare. Very near my house, can just drop by and get instant service when I need it.

So far my City still can comb hair even after almost 6 years and 3 renewal liao....as for my PE, its looks POLISHED after every wash. Thats 2 months liao since sealent was done.

Normal Polish, whether if its compound or not, will still eat into your paint every time you do it. If you leave your car outside, it will be gone within 2 weeks - 3 weeks. The wax protection usually last only about 2 to 3 washes b4 protection gone. So not much use unless you wax often. So DO not polish too often, a couple of years later, your paint habis.

If you got the dough, going for those glass compound sealent will be a better deal overtime. For RM500 to RM700, you DO NOT need to polish again for a long time. Just wash, it WILL look polish again.

For Sierra Glow, do it once, supposedly can last 5 years. I personally don't think it wil last that long in our acidic rain, humid, hot condition. But since they give 5 years warranty, why not. For Magic Glare, it should last 18 months to 2 years. Also do it once. After that, DON'T ever normal polish again on your car. Just wash with shampoo or water...it will glow mirror like after EVERY wash.

Swirl marks is the bane again for those mirror like looks especially on dark colored car. So thats where the maintenance comes in. Spend abt RM80 bucks every once a while (for me, its 6 months to 1 year), to remove the mark, it will be glossy again. The removal of mark won't damage the paint as the glass sealent protects them, unless its a scratch that penetrated the paint itself, then it can only be dimmed, damage done.

btw. Doing polish by hand will never be as completed as those by machine. Uneven polish might not be good for car paint after long time coz some part will look darker than others...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 02:23 PM

Ooiiii......10k service even for FS not recommended lar....experts cakap punya..(not me, I pass message only). FS at most 7K only, even after 5K, they will degrade drastically, at 7K maybe still acceptable but at 10K, damage and wear would have been done to your engine.

If still not clear...its just like you can still makan expired food...maybe you won't get stomach ache BUT it's still expired liao, nutrient gone, fungus or mold and bacteria might set in...you can live with it but expired food will do no good to your body. At the most, nothing happen (not doing any good to your body except filling it) and worst case scenario, food poisoning, masuk hospital...

For Magic Glare, abt RM488 to RM 500++ for PE. Do it once every 18 to 24 months. For Sierra Glow, not so sure abt the price coz my neighbour Forte got club discount abt RM600. BUT do it once only for 5 years. I believe you have to do maintenance every now and then to remove swirl mark, bird / leave acid, water marks, etc. Heard sierra glow say minimal swirl mark but I have to see the Forte after 6 months to check.

If you look at the cost over long term and compared to those doing polish quarterly (by pro, not self)...its very cheap liao and glass compound sealent PROTECTs the PAINT and form a layer of glass sealent bonding to protect better than wax. Don't wash away. Some more for lazy ppl like us, no need go polish every 2-3 months. Do it once, then go back 1 to 2 years later unless you wanted to remove scratches or do maintenance sealent protection due to acid rain, bird shit, water mark, etc.

Most importantly you enjoyed POLISHED GLOSSY looks EVERY TIME after you wash the car until warranty expire...unlike normal polish, after few wash, goes back normal dull look.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 02:42 PM

Can lar...when engine oil wears out its addictives....its equivalent to expired liao...since it's still in use IN the engine. But then again your examples is shorter and more to the point...so...eg below.

Zen car's usually too long never shit, so I believe got long term constipation liao...Wait long long until all shit stuck and harden in ass, leaking out baru want to go shitting. By then the ass might already bleed liao....maybe no need see doctor but got scar liao. However if bleeding no stop, have to masuk hospital to open up the ass to stop bleeding.

So conclusion, do you want to shit everyday, the brownish soft soft easy come out wan or you want to keep those shit inside until harden black black then only go squat in toilet 3 hours also don't want to come out.....your choice.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 03:54 PM

The last time I'm there, car ready at 2pm....then see invoice time....11:30am..

You tak da request 40 weighted FS kah ? In this case, using this FS is like going backward in your engine performance. Although FS has better fluidity, contaminant suspension, etc...the heavier weight sort of negate the overall performance.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 04:03 PM

Then should have goes for the semi instead...unless they pour first, then only tell you its a 50 weighted lube.

btw. even Cose using 40 weighted semi for normal servicing.

Since change liao, too late. Just use the lube for 5K, then change either to semi or other brand's 40 weighted lube. As I mentioned before, even FS, should change at 5K if possible, 7K at most. I personally change at 5-6K..

Don't wait till shit harden....once ass bleed, scar is going to be there forever, not worth it to save some cost..



This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 04:17 PM

I would not suggest 5-30 for campro lor...unless its a CPS. Since manual list 40 or 50 weighted wan...try sticking with 40 weighted wan to be safe.

The truth being campro engine production might not be having as tight tolerance as other more established makes. RPM seems to spin slight higher than of other makes at same or near same cc. Probably generate more heat than them. So 40 will be the safest bet.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 23 2011, 04:28 PM

I think changing Iridium at 40K will be the best to maintain OPTIMUM power and FC. No point using iridium if power degrade liao, defeats the purpose coz the reason we want iridium is for more power (at least the one we're getting is performance iridium, not for long life wan).

My city vtec also using stock iridium...maybe its platinum tip wan. Can last 100k but change at 80K. But that wan change at RM300 to RM400 per 4 piece set. So I think using this 0.04 or is it 0.4mm for 40K is at RM160 or less, is worth it liao.

Haih...last time get from Zen, now still not use yet....some more 20K FOC service includes plug as well...have to wait up to 40K to change. Save money mah...if change now, the existing plug wasted ler...I family man mah, family need eat rice, join resort club for family....while I makan roti and minum water only.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 26 2011, 03:59 PM