hi,newbie here,dont own flx but test driven it for 15 to 20 minutes before. My dad own auto blm 1.3. Me,just plain waja campro n savvy.
Have some foreman sc as friends. When i read the forum,i come across some misunderstanding about L (low gear) in flx. L in flx isnt the same as L in saga auto. L in flx even it means low gear generally,its not really low gear,but low gear ratio.
Low gear ratio means it runs 20 to 30 percent lower than in D mode. For example if in D mode the rpm is 2k,when switch to L,the rev will increase to nearly 2.5k with the same throttle input. Very useful when climbing uphill n overtake.
In D mode also has hill sensing mode feature that will increase the rev around the same figure as in L mode,but it is only for temporary.
But in L mode,it is permanently rev 20 to 30 percent higher than D mode.
So,it is wrongly assume that in L mode the speed is only 25kmh,it actually can go beyond 100kmh but it will affect ur fc.
If u have the opportunity,try to download details of cvt2 from zf which actually used for mini cooper before. But this punch actually an enhance version of cvt2 from zf.
for sat,eventhough it is simulation,it has 6 preset fixed ratio,so it will work as normal at but the feeling is different coz it comes from cvt gearbox,not torque conv gearbox.
So,inconclusion,if u want speed n power in full cvt mode,change to L mode,if want to save fuel n sometimes need power,just stick to D and let the ecu n tcu decide which is suitable for u. Sat a good mode to those are not familiar with full cvt mode,but bear in mind,the fc will tend to be higher since tha ratio is fix.
Dont worry bout auto braking coz this cvt has uphill n downhill sensing mode. Eventhough it is not apparent like in invecs 2 gb as in any other campro engine,it is simply bcoz of cvt behaviour since it will not dramatically change to fix low gear,but gradually drop to lower gear ratio since cvt has infinite number of ratio,so the drop will be seamless or feelingless,but it drop,dun worry.
Hope this info i share from my test drive experience,checking cvt2 manual data sheet from zf n my info by chatting with my friends foreman will benefit flx user.

i think in full cvt mode,it has more power to compare with sat mode cause it is easy to keep the engine at it full torque all the way.
What u need to do is to rev up until 4k rpm n maintain it at that rpm,so engine is running at peak torque all the way n the speed will increase steadily oppose to sat mode,if reaching 4k rpm then when changing to the nwxt gear,rpm will drop,so the engine need to work hard over n over again to reach it peak torque. Need to mind u,regardless any gear in sat mode,the engine torque rev band remain the same,so,it keep climbing to reach torque peak for every gear to keep the momentum.
Why we feel sat more powerful? Well, it is simply becoz we are used to see rpm meter coming up n down,n the engine noise also influence u to think it is powerful. Do a blind test or simply look at speedo meter only,u can see the speed is increasing steadily in full cvt mode,while in sat mode,every gear change,the speedo will halt momentarily(not really obvious but u can see it if really focus on the speedo) for every gear change n speed rising inconsistently.
To get full power,just pedal to metal in cvt mode,the rpm will increase to its peak horse power 5750rpm,n speedo will increase steadily to top speed. If u want to go fastee,just switch to L mode,and after u see the speedo nearly halt at high speed,change to D mode,so that the gear ratio will go higher n can extract a little bit more speed at the top end

so u shud try out in L mode :-). By the way, D mode main function is to give u best balance between power n fc.
The same as D in conventional auto, it will try to shift to the highest gear which is overdrive or 4th gear. Thats why i always put in 3 or off overdrive in my waja when climbing genting hills,easy to extract power coz the only gear change is only 1st,2nd and highest 3rd.
Lazy to do it manually between L, 2 n 3 coz the purpose i buy auto coz just want to relax from shifting.
If not lazy,just use my manual savvy to conquer genting.
Next time u go to genting,try to use L mode,n rev up until 4krpm n try to maintain it.
When i try out a steep hill(short one) on flx on D mode, L mode n sat. L mode give me best outcome eventhough initially feeling a little bit slower,but when doing manually timing the time, it is actually better,maybe coz used to rev counter being up n down n also the engine note give also up n down.
Its also matter of preference. For me, i love full mode cvt,especially L mode coz it feel boosted when u shift from D to L,but if dont like cvt n uncomfortable with it characteristic,just use sat mode.
Nonetheless drive in sat mode also fun coz it feels like normal 6 at but the shifting is smoother without jerkiness except shifting between 1st n 2nd gear,a little bit jerky,but not too bad. The only thing i dont like in sat mode,sometimes it feels 'lazy' n keep searching for the correct gear.
One more thing, try to control the throttle when driving in town. Driving normal auto,amt,manual n cvt, u need a little bit diffrent technique of stepping on the throttle.
For cvt,no need to step to much as in normal auto in town coz u only need to rev not more than 2k rpm since at 2krpm,u already send a signal to the engine n gb that u want it to speed up until 80kmh,so,the engine will push itself to ur demand.
So,just ease on the throttle,let the rpm increase slowly toward desire rpm, if i not mistaken,1.5k or 1.8k rpm is just enough to speed up to 60kmh town driving.
If not,suddently jap on throttle for example 3k rpm,will course the car to lurk forward,n sometimes can feel jerky.
Like driving amt,u need to pedal the throttle like driving manual car in order it to shift even in auto mode. Step on throttle n ease up when want to shift. If driving amt like normal auto,just step on pedal n maintain it,it will not prolong the life of amt gb.
Have fun with ur flx, maybe after u can adapt to cvt characteristic, it will be a happy marriage,hopefully.
Still waiting for p321a 7 speed paddle shifter next year,(if it is true)hopefully it will bring enough smile for boyracer.

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Added on September 30, 2011, 4:41 pmem, just a little bit correction on prtn conv auto,
2 just for 2nd gear only,it will not downshift to 1st gear. So,becareful,if want to take care of auto gb,never start of with 2, start with L n then shift to 2 if u want to play it manually :-). If not,just stick to 3,rev untill redline n shift to d to enter overdrive mode. For my waja,3rd gear can achieve around 160kmh n shift to D mode slowly reaching 200kmh,but never try more than 200kmh coz my wife will cubit me n mrh. Fyi, my waja is slightly mode with pwrzone catless extractor, bosch iri ,r3 cable plug n aerospeed lcp. :-).

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Added on September 30, 2011, 4:46 pmwow, L mode all the way home, hopefully the engine already nicely break-in. Anyway, do tell us the result key :-). Have fun but drive carefully.

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 30 2011, 04:46 PM

[quote=gogoman86,Sep 30 2011, 04:57 PM]
2 only use 2nd gear? sure or not bro? i tried before on my AT car, start driving using 2 i can feel the change of gear 1 to gear 2...

yup,sure,but this only apply to prtn mitsu auto box n it even printed in proton owner's manual book. Try it so many times when try to drag my car, its only on 2nd gear. Dunno exactly bout other cars,but for kia spectra n vios that i manage to try out coz my sisters' cars,it is the same. But never had a chance to read spectra n viow owner's manual book though.
by the way,what is ur previous auto car?

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Added on September 30, 2011, 5:23 pmsorry,didnt notice ur spoiler :-). My bad. Using handphone to browsing,sometimes mistyping n sometimes overlook :-)

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 30 2011, 05:23 PM

since campro using dbw, n flx come with new ecu, u need learning to adjust your clutch n throttle, u need to maintain press the throttle while slowly release the clutch. After it moves smoothly then can release the throttle if u want. Dont press throttle too much,just between 1.5k to 2k rpm shud suffice. Its more on clutch control u need to seek rather than throttle.
It is the same experience i had before with my savvy. But in a week i believe u will familiarize with it characteristic.
I think besides emmision reason of throttle lag,another one is if too sensitive quite dangerous coz the car will tend jump to front suddenly,quite dangerous when u r in parking lot. If i not mistaken,the ecu will only read 70 percent of throttle input during movement from stalling,but if already move then it will read 100 percent input.
How is the gb feel?is it meatier or loose such in fl,blm or myvi? Or meaty like savvy?

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Added on October 3, 2011, 4:48 pmand ngek2 sound from spoiler maybe come from double tape they used for the spoiler,it still soft i think. If it bother u when driving,better send to sc to rectify it

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 3 2011, 04:48 PM

for blm owners,may be can opt to change absorber,spring n stabilizer bar from flx.
If i not mistaken, on flx,they already stiffen the spring, make the rebound shorten n stiffen for the absorber n thicker rollbar compare to blm n fl. N not forgetting thicker rear bump stopper.
I believe that it strikes between handling n comfort. Based on my experience,flx ride is less bouncing n bodyroll during corner compare to blm. I think flx will not having sagat problem anymore. The problem is just whether sc already has stock on flx suspension set.

wow,blm 6 people,that is not fullload,that is overload :-)

fc for me depent on right foot. My own waja campro,if always rev beyond 3k which is death valley to all campro until 4k, fc sucks all the way. My waja auto in town at rm 85+- ron 95,manage to get average around 500km to max at 550km,but on highway around 550 n max around 630km.
The only thing i do is avoid the torque dip spot, in town just maintain revving around 2k. Mine is auto.
Some of wajarian only top around 400km ++ for the same amount of fuel. I think is due to right foot n maintenance.
Like my father blm auto, in town for rm50 ron 95 around 300km,but on highway on speed averanging 120kmh sometimes 140kmh,manage to get 350km with the same amount of fuel. If really coutions n use less braking(anticipate the traffic early),in town manage to get around 350km,but its really tiring :-).
For iafm it doesnt have torque dip,but since the ecu is load based,so the shifting is on predetermined based on load compare to how many torque on demand when driving,thats why fc is not much improve compare to old campro. Flx is a diff story since use 32bit easyu ecu torque based. Combine with cvt,it help a lot improving the fc. Did some digging, persona elegance that use 32bit ecu scored better in fc compare to persona iafm based using 16bit ems 700 n it more responsive too.
Just wish if prtn can actually offered ecu update/change at marginal cost.