most starter will go with Amazonia

another different thing btw all aquasoil is the PH level ... u need to consider this if u adding expensive fauna later

Agree with weijie..98w and 1bps is too low for 4ft

U will never regret adding more co2 (if still within optimum level, co2 indicator will tell u this) ...lack of co2 might invite algae with dosing of liquid fert..bcoz plant hav nothing to react with

@kelvin8810

personally snap this from my BOOK OF ADA, hope u can get more details





of course, u can always adjust what u mix according to ur budget, its just some suggestion and marketing from ADA

yupe, more light = more co2

dun increase ur light first, try increase ur co2 and monitor ur plant growth if u are ready for more plant growth, then u can increase ur light after that, just my personal opinion


This post has been edited by ciohbu: Oct 13 2011, 04:27 PM

hehehe.. initial algae attack will tell ur tank condition and requirement..

if out of control then habis liao so must spend some time everyday to check out ur tank

BOOK OF ADA hint : bro sisaiko lelong page

as per radver, BGA is type of bacteria.. another way to kill it -> BGA remover (which is a type of antibiotic) for marine... but this will kill some of ur beneficial bac in ur filter


diatom i guess...time to put in yamato or otto

kinda standard price.. rm3.5 for cardinal..

pls cycle ur tank properly first b4 buying fish, cardinal tetra can be very fragile as all of them are wild caught and ship around the world..unlike neon

also u need to acclimate them slowly when adding them to tank

correct me if i am wrong bout the wild caught part

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Oct 14 2011, 02:37 AM

red color will depends on lightning too, not just iron

yupe... KH/GH

hmmm.. i would say PH equally important as GH if u keeping shrimp.. haha bcoz GH is basically measurement of Magnesium (Mg+) and Calcium (Ca+) ions in ur water, which are important for shrimp, snail etc with shell

KH : the term 'hardness' in KH is somewhat confusing because it does not actually measure hardness, but rather the alkalinity (buffering capacity - ability to neutralize acids) of a solution to resist a pH change. The higher the KH, the more stable and resistant your water is to pH swings. A KH of 2-3dKH is generally accepted as the minimum to maintain a stable pH.

PH, KH, GH.. all of them are related to each other its kinda complex to explain everything in real sience.. but u can get the basic idea from chart below

for test kit, dun buy API KH/GH test kit.. not accurate, too bad NA dun hav Sera GH test kit

i posted this earlier





http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/133-W...H-GH-KH-NO3-CO2

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Oct 15 2011, 11:28 AM

i heard Sera GH test kit not bad wor.. i bought API KH/GH test kit last time..but not very useful/accurate

most of the KH/GH test kit require you to increase drop by drop of solution into test tube until it change to certain color, and numbers of drop = GH or KH, so need to make sure the color is really contrast.. for example, blue -> red, green -> purple etc etc

i can't really differentiate the color change in API kit

i think under RM50 or RM60 u can get both test kit d

99% got help me to see got new shrimp stock or not ya.. lolx

u can follow the instruction provided in the box

side shot after 2nd weeks

nice... keep us updated ya

actually u can eliminate those with correct placement of lily pipe outflow, or use ADA Clear Float..hehe





or



This post has been edited by ciohbu: Oct 17 2011, 04:26 PM

keke.. no problem.. they usually raise the outflow higher than water level to provide water aeration during night time if u raise ngam ngam just below water level, it will create a small tornado to suck down / break all the oil film...

for ur tank dimension... its sweet if u manage to find any driftwood like below



This post has been edited by ciohbu: Oct 17 2011, 05:05 PM

results and pics of International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest 2011

http://acuariorosa.com/2011/08/02/the-inte...t-contest-2011/

too much lighting will cause ur temp to rise also... try put ur hand under the light then u will know

i keep it on 24/7, off during clean up or maintenance only

dun worry, 25-26C.. still can take it

unless u want very specific, then go for temperature controller.. hahaa

normal shrimp/fish able to take small temperature swing

buy from my source.. lolx.. lazy to DIY