Stock CC5 tyre max is 51, written on the tyre. So I pump 40, but kena ppl scold sohigh last time. But I still pump 40 everytime I pump my type.

"Next we evaluated the affects of heat generated by the tire's flexing during use. We tried to eliminate the variable conditions we might encounter on the road by conducting this test using our "competition tire heat cycling service" that rolls the tires under load against the machine's rollers to simulate real world driving. We monitored the changes in tire pressure in 5-minute intervals. The test tires were inflated to 15 psi, 20 psi, 25 psi and 30 psi. Running them all under the same load, the air pressure in all of the tires went up about 1 psi during every 5 minutes of use for the first 20 minutes of operation. Then the air pressures stabilized, typically gaining no more than 1 psi of additional pressure during the next 20 minutes. This means that even a short drive to inflate your tires will result in tires that will probably be under-inflated by a few psi the following morning."


taken from - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tec...e.jsp?techid=73


I usually follow this guide. If from a cold long park, every 5 minutes I drive before I hit the petrol station I add +1psi that what is recommended by the manufacturer. So if I've been driving for about 20 mins, I add 4psi. I've tested this myself and found it to be quite accurate. Of course, sometimes I overinflate as well, but that makes the ride a little noisier.

Wow... 40... hard like stone...

yea always pump when tyres are cold.

---

Added on September 7, 2011, 12:05 pmif the cc5 ,rated H:
should be around: 240kpa=35psi also :




For H-Speed Rated Tires
Vehicle
Top Speed Required Tire
Pressure Increase Tire Load Capacity
% of Branded Maximum H-Speed Rated Tire
35 psi O.E. Example
mph km/h psi bar % of value branded on sidewall psi lbs.
100 160 0 0 100% 35 1000
106 170 1 0.06 100% 36 1000
112 180 2 0.12 100% 37 1000
118 190 3 0.18 100% 38 1000
124 200 4 0.24 100% 39 1000
130 210 5 0.30 100% 40 1000


This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 7 2011, 12:05 PM

Yeah, but then car can roll, I rike rolling my car lol.

Hmmm.. have you tried the nitrogen? Ever since I pump my tyre using it, felt much smoother since it is pure air compare to typical pump which mixed with small portion of water but the only problem is need to find the workshop that provide the machine, then again if emergency we can just fill it with normal air.

Or, pump high a bit, say 35psi, then early in the morning before you move, reduce pressure to 32psi

Roll yes.... but ever try to stop quickly?? You will like THAT feeling even more when your tires are at 40...!!! No wonder your ABS kicks in way more than any of us ever do.... ever wonder why is that so? Hint... 40...

Also, at 40, your traction is lesser during standstill take off, thus increasing your FC again (which offsets the gain from "rolling")... again lesser contact with the road when braking (as per above)...

This post has been edited by Poadster: Sep 7 2011, 02:55 PM

the max pressure stated at the tyres ah?

actually the point here is get a proper pressure, under inflation will cost more FC, over will have uneven wear etc..

.....................

What's the "correct" tyre pressure?

How long is a piece of string?
Seriously though, you'll be more likely to get a sensible answer to the length of a piece of string than you will to the question of tyres pressures. Lets just say a good starting point is the pressure indicated in the owner's manual, or the sticker inside the driver's side door pillar. I say 'starting point' because on every car I've owned, I've ended up deviating from those figures for one reason or another. On my Subaru Impreza, as outlined above, I got much better gas mileage and no difference in tyre wear by increasing my pressures to 40psi. On my Honda Element, I cured the vague handling and outer-tyre-edge wear by increasing the pressures from the manufacturer-recommended 32/34psi front and rear respectively, to 37psi all round. On my Audi Coupe I cured some squirrelly braking problems by increasing the pressure at the front from 32psi to 36psi. On my really old VW Golf, I cured bad fuel economy and vague steering by increasing the pressures all-round to 33psi.
So what can you, dear reader, learn from my anecdotes? Not much really. It's pub-science. Ask ten Subaru Impreza owners what they run their tyres at and you'll get ten different answers. It depends on how they drive, what size wheels they have, what type of tyres they have, the required comfort vs. handling levels and so on and so forth. That's why I said the sticker in the door pillar is a good starting point. It's really up to you to search the internet and ask around for information specific to your car.

The Max. Pressure -10% theory.

Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to.
Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres was 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.



Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html#ixzz1XFUIVNex

too technical for me bros,

so basically when i go to a petrol station, i should pump berapa again?

between 220 - 240 is the normal pressure....i usually put 230 front, 220 back...

Dry air contains roughly (by volume) 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen



Overall, while accepting the possibility of purified nitrogen being of benefit in certain applications, we don't think that the cost and possible inconvenience are justified for normal passenger car use.

http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/safet...h-nitrogen.html

This post has been edited by turbocharged: Sep 7 2011, 04:42 PM

Plus its very hard to find places with real pure nitrogen. Some use that machine but is doubious, try find those with full size nitrogen tanks (there's one in dsara jaya) is more believable but psi still varies depending on temp, I hv tried. Each time pump have to pay somemore.. haiz... So now just use back normal air, just monitor it regularly will do.

haha

Improtant!!!
For those who are MIVEC zone HUNTER or Redline Kaki, must service early your engine oil change no matter semi or fully.

I found out my car engine rev up metal kicking sound go back soft sound after service this morning...

It means semi for 10k usage not for speed driving use!!!
Sakit hati now my engine inside sure already being damaged.

About same here also.

ya lo, semi cant last tht long with our trigger/revv happy engine


This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 7 2011, 06:29 PM

I have yet to rev past 4k rpm Haven't gone for a long distance drive oso...haish.

I'm using Syntium 1000 15w50...the only fully syn that the SC had during my first service....and the buggers go add in X1R engine treatment

Im using syntium 1000 oso.. been pulling to redline d :-P adictive.... lolz