well, why ? after been lookin around for 4 mths, the ones i wanted the enkei frm taiwan are all out of stock and most replicas are taiwan n now worst frm china. cant afford the ori/ not worth to spend tht money.

besides tht hard to really differentiate frm china n taiwan now.
safety more important for me and finally found damn almost new lancer unit with the tyres i wanted .

too many owners do tht already, i think mostly would mod/convert to lancer .
like for me had plan to convert to lancer ralliart when i bought inspira. its just matter of time.
as for now still love the inspira's look.
will do so in stages every 1-2 yrs and looks different each changes.

yea affects abit definately as the 18" are 1.6kg heavier, but comfort still there although can feel more bumps but the most fun factor is how stable it is when taking corners and at higher speed.
the car performs like in another level now. which more addicted to take cornering more.
so it out weighs the pick up issue of course more reason to to basic performance mod soon to compensate

yea no scratch any parts, i bought new tyres 225/45/18. yea most likely the absorbers/springs next ..
as for the drag..yea dun worry many MT frens out there can test.

hahaha ya i wanted hold on later but my front tyres already 50% left and noisy so got good opportunity so go for it then.

Dessimo,

when we met at TT tht time i already had the side skirts, got it n the rear spoiler right after i got my car in jan 2011.

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Added on September 5, 2011, 12:36 pmthts rare? shouldn't happen on shaking etc,
i did 10k km in early july .now near 13k km still ok

This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 5 2011, 12:36 PM

6-750 rpm is normal.

michael,

around market price 1.2k+ (its a good almost new unit thts why cost abit more) (actually after bargaining its a package price thingy)

yea the rims nobody wan until now, u really got to search for a good set, i randomly look for tyre shops of total i think 20+ for past mths..


yea v12, my 2nd set ..love it on my pv6 on heavy rain n grippy.
lasting for an ultra high set.

bro here expensive, if klang can get bout 550/pc.
i got it due to combo,last trip in klang n shah alam cant get the combo i wanted n no stock/high demand .

yea i did mention earlier; 225/45

haha no worries,
well if compare to my 16" which was 50% left, its quieter with the new ones .but i think tread wear wont be as good as the cc5 whihc is 36o n now v12 is 280(but according to many users/still best in noise n wear among its class)
oh ya tht price was last check in june/july in shahalm ,now every mth increase for tyres prices..
well i'll update it on the tyres as now still 60km only.
believe me n many others, if u wan bigger rims for looks n handling this is it.
but if u wan balance off with performance go for 17" but then again if u are not as fussy as me can go for replicas which is lighter than stock lgt 18"
you see,wat many tyre shop owner told me which is damn true, just find out wat rims n tyres u want n go for it dun have so many to compare etc. and as the more knowledge u knw bout rims/tyres u will be more pening.
but anyhow im around to advise members here frm wat i knw.

trust me S drive's grip far frm v12's n the wear also suxx

ya i change also

buy the filter frm spare parts shop

i mean ya just change everything

This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 5 2011, 04:56 PM

i meant the filter n gasket/ring.

ya as mentioned earlier worst nowdays got replicas frm china ,why have it cuz demands are there. already taiwan types got prblems for some models,not all and now the china ones.
madchin ,
the wedsports sa 55 ,60, 70 are common replicas and see aroun on many cars.
just make sure u knw where its from.

see ur max pressure, like info frm Carbible put 10-15% less than the max pressure rated.
for me my previous 16" also i put 240+ and now with 225/45/18 also now 240kpa

yea always pump when tyres are cold.

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Added on September 7, 2011, 12:05 pmif the cc5 ,rated H:
should be around: 240kpa=35psi also :




For H-Speed Rated Tires
Vehicle
Top Speed Required Tire
Pressure Increase Tire Load Capacity
% of Branded Maximum H-Speed Rated Tire
35 psi O.E. Example
mph km/h psi bar % of value branded on sidewall psi lbs.
100 160 0 0 100% 35 1000
106 170 1 0.06 100% 36 1000
112 180 2 0.12 100% 37 1000
118 190 3 0.18 100% 38 1000
124 200 4 0.24 100% 39 1000
130 210 5 0.30 100% 40 1000


This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 7 2011, 12:05 PM

actually the point here is get a proper pressure, under inflation will cost more FC, over will have uneven wear etc..

.....................

What's the "correct" tyre pressure?

How long is a piece of string?
Seriously though, you'll be more likely to get a sensible answer to the length of a piece of string than you will to the question of tyres pressures. Lets just say a good starting point is the pressure indicated in the owner's manual, or the sticker inside the driver's side door pillar. I say 'starting point' because on every car I've owned, I've ended up deviating from those figures for one reason or another. On my Subaru Impreza, as outlined above, I got much better gas mileage and no difference in tyre wear by increasing my pressures to 40psi. On my Honda Element, I cured the vague handling and outer-tyre-edge wear by increasing the pressures from the manufacturer-recommended 32/34psi front and rear respectively, to 37psi all round. On my Audi Coupe I cured some squirrelly braking problems by increasing the pressure at the front from 32psi to 36psi. On my really old VW Golf, I cured bad fuel economy and vague steering by increasing the pressures all-round to 33psi.
So what can you, dear reader, learn from my anecdotes? Not much really. It's pub-science. Ask ten Subaru Impreza owners what they run their tyres at and you'll get ten different answers. It depends on how they drive, what size wheels they have, what type of tyres they have, the required comfort vs. handling levels and so on and so forth. That's why I said the sticker in the door pillar is a good starting point. It's really up to you to search the internet and ask around for information specific to your car.

The Max. Pressure -10% theory.

Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to.
Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres was 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.



Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html#ixzz1XFUIVNex

ya lo, semi cant last tht long with our trigger/revv happy engine


This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 7 2011, 06:29 PM

wow ,how fast u went?
wat tyres n wat size u usin now?
better get a good one ya for safety bro

its most likely the 912, its thread wear rating is now A,drop frm AA long time ago so its not so good and many owners complain bout it also.