Can kah? I tot COSE got appointment only can go. Thats what the SA told me unless b4 raya special case. I need to do warranty claim on my rear side window where the Gen2 windows. Have to ask to change the rubber around the windows. Not tight enuf (probably damaged coz Gen2 gap expose the rubber for months).

Cannot afford that risk since I have to take leave to go do servicing. Still can't get thru for all 4 numbers. I think they purposely put all on hold coz no energy to answer laio.

Maybe I'll call at 7.45 to 8am tomorrow to try my luck. Morning many ppl have not reach office to call yet. I'm already at office then.

I got CoSE booking finally. Suddenly strike me, most Proton customer is Malay. That means at 4:30pm, most malays started racing home. So I make calls at 4:40pm..all got thru but nobody pickup...

Then at 4:50pm, my calls are answered. At 4:55pm, I call again to confirm another detail...straight CoSE staff answer..

So for those that cannot get thru, you can try your luck near to 5pm, better 4:30pm try onwards. Don't call too near to 5pm coz I think CoSE close at 5pm or 5:30pm.

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Added on August 8, 2011, 11:26 pmActually skimming was not recommended UNLESS its absolutely necessary. There is only limited number of time we can skim before it makan too deep in the plate, have to change brake disc after that.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 8 2011, 11:28 PM

Actually you only need abt 2 hours "long kai" say go look see at the markets yourself, etc...more than enuf to walk in, pick the girl thru the window glass and "massage" and get back.

Yeah. I can see the difference there. The BEFORE looks darker and glossier better than the AFTER....ermm...wait a minute, shouldn't it be the other way round.

Yes, warm up at least 15 to 30 seconds. Let the engine oil and fuel move up first.

This happens occassional if we start up and straight jalan after parking for a while especially in the cold morning. Not only for PE, happens to other cars too. Not sure if any damage done if jalan before engine oil manage to lubricate your pistons.

I usually pump 230kpa front and 210 rear. Cold pressure.

Since pump is only 2km from my house, I usually pump 235-240 front and 215-220 go directly from house. At longer distance, at at least another 10kpa.

Cold pressure is when you tyre is cold such as in the morning before you drive out. Hot pressure is usually under hot sun or after some driving distance where the air heats up.

So my intended cold pressure is 230 / 210 front /rear (prefer slightly more air, still within acceptable cold pressure range, better driveability). Measured with tyre gauge from house before I drive.

Abt 2-3km drive would heat up the tyre, so add to 240 / 220 pressure. It was not recommended to pump tyre after long run since the pressure will not be accurate. If you have to, add AT LEAST 20kpa to your intended pressure...for me it will be 250 front and 230 respectively.

When you measured again in the morning. It should be abt 230 / 210 respectively. Always prefer to pump slighly more coz if need to be, i can release air easily coz if pump not enuf, have to go station again, very mafan.

I tot only 70% only applicable to front tint. The rest is 50%.

Actually mineral can last 5K also, EXACTLY the same as semi. Proton using semi so can charge more mah....

Been reading up a lot on engine oil lately and have chatted with ppl in the oil line.

In reality, mineral, semi and fully all have to service at 5K. Minyak boleh tahan but most if not all uses the same amt of addictives within the same brand. Thus if mineral can last only 5K, the same with semi and fully. Semi usually uses the same base oil as the mineral with addition of abt 10% (in general) of synthetic base oil in semi. So mineral and semi practically last the same 5K only although semi supposedly provide better lubrication (better lubrication does not equal extending service time)

Those that extended the use, runs the risk of addictives wearing off. Once worn, addictives will be gone. Anti-rust, anti-wear, anti-bonding (or something like that, prevents contaminant from combining to become sludge), etc will no longer be in effect. You can still use it but the damage to the internal engine....you can figure it out...sludge, wear, etc.

Fully Syn (FS) is a bit different coz most of our fully syn is using Group 3+ hydro-cracked mineral. The highest quality of mineral oil, so definitely different from semi and mineral that uses the same base mineral oil. However the amt of addictives is technically still the same, just the synthetic and mineral components different. Once addictives wears out, same damage will be done.

In reality, most oil manufacturer still recommend following original car service schedule for FS change coz they cannot garantee how long their addictives will last (really depends on car engine makes). Some cars uses a larger amt of engine oil with much better and bigger filteration system along with other more efficient components that can slow down the wear rate that might makes FS last longer, maybe 10K to 20K depending on weather, dust, humidity, drive route, etc. I have never of of semi and mineral being recommended by any car manufacturers to last over 5K.

Unfortunely most ppl takes that as norm as uses the 10K mileage meant for those upscale cars and generalize it for all cars. Technically even tho true FS like Redline can hold contaminant longer but unfortunately the addictives still wear out.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 12 2011, 04:21 PM

Normally they don't do partial painting. So it has to be half bumper or whole piece. Abt RM150 to RM200 for whole bumper.

I wonder if that is the infamous rubber band effect, where when one tekan, rpm goes up but not the speed. 2 seconds later, the power come in a boost....just like a rubber band. That usually happens mostly on City iDSI previously.

Frequent lube change DOES prolong engine life....but if the lube used is darn lousy wan with insufficient addictives to lubricate and protect the engine, its will shorten life instead...

Put it as 2 choice, use a more expensive lube that can confidently protect engine up to 5K or use a way cheaper lube that "MIGHT" be able to protect engine up to 5K...then change at 3K instead. Since we're already in doubt of that cheaper lube quality, you want to take risk that it CAN protect engine even at 3K....take your pick.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 15 2011, 04:18 PM

Its a 40 weighted oil...just ngam for our campro. Don't read the 0W its Winter viscosity and since we don't have sub-zero temperature here, the cold viscosity will remain same with 5W, 10W....at 20+C cold temperature, it will remain same viscosity for all these lube.

As have been mentioned b4, use fully also should change lube by 5K mileage. One reason is most of our FS is group 3+ hydrocracked mineral oil with synthetic base stock. Not the true PAO or ester-based FS that can hold contaminant better. So contaminant will still form at same rate as mineral and semi.

Its common for lube expert saying, its better to use mineral and service at 5K rather than use FS and service at 10K. Damage to engine on 10K FS is more than 5K mineral.

I think you're getting confuse that 0W and 5W cold viscosity means both will start cold at their respective sub-zero temperature. What the number indicates is 0W can go over -35C while 5W can go up to 30C pour point. Both will remain fluid for easier engine start at subzero temperature.

However our temperature practically never go below 20C, so 0W to 20W have practically same cold start performance at the temperature.

What you have to watch out is extending the mileage. The bigger the difference in hot and cold viscosity, the more addictives and viscosity improver (VI) are used. Ie 0W40 had way more addictives and VI vs 15W40. Addictives and VI breaks down way faster than the oil itself. So when addictives wears out, the oil will not remain in grade meaning, if the base stock is actually a 30 weighted oil and VI is used to increase / decrease viscosity, losing addictives will mean the oil are unable to lower it viscosity to needed cold start or thicken them to 40 weight. It will start to stay at weight 30 only and thats not good for the engine.

True FS base VI without addictives is very high already. So even when losing some addictives, it will still remain in grade near its natural wide VI range rather than the artificial VI addictives. FS natural VI does not break down fast vs addictive VI that breaks down very easily. Our group 3+ VS has higher natural VI than mineral and semi thus its VII breaks down slower than mineral and semi. Thats why some try to extend the mileage. Unfortunately its still not true FS thus the addictives and VI will still breaks down as same rate as mineral/semi. Just that these FS will lessen damage to engine vs mineral/semi at same mileage. Still damage will be done if extend too long thus recommended change at 5K before any chances of VI truly wearing off.

Aiyo....I never need to rape women wan....so far only women come rape me...so I cover myself with oil to escape them lor, makes me harder to catch hold on....the one in Penang copy cat lar...but he go rape ppl pulak...spoil my local orang minyak reputation...

Honestly tho...I also still learning but now "heng heng" reading up and discuss a lot this subject due to changing to FS abt half year ago.

Some more recently bought Idemitsu FS way cheaper than workshop, so read up to see if can know celup wan or not.

I'm sort of completionist and play safe guy, so when I wanted to use something for long term, I do research kaw kaw on the subject before doing the switch. Even buying my City earlier took me half a year before I buy. Only thing I buy fast fast without delay is rubber.....but then when it comes to strawberry flavor, peppermint, florescent...I stood there for minutes before I decide..