Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !
Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !
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Aug 2 2011, 10:23 PM
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#41
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
Foto Selangor still offers the unbeaten-able price compared with other local shops?
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Aug 2 2011, 11:51 PM
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#42
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
Nikon Rumors also has source saying D3s and D700 replacement to be announced on 24th August... and... and... made in Malaysia?
Sauce: http://nikonrumors.com/2011/08/02/august-2...uccessors.aspx/ |
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Aug 3 2011, 12:32 AM
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#43
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
QUOTE(Terbulance @ Aug 3 2011, 12:06 AM) It still ships back to Japan for QC (hopefully) and packaging before distributing to other countries. Good example, Inter processor. Unless factory sneak-out-items la... that also if Nikon doing R&D in Malaysia which I doubt. |
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Aug 3 2011, 09:17 AM
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#44
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
Any chances of seeing refreshed model or replacement for SB-900? What do you guys think?
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Aug 3 2011, 04:34 PM
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#45
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
When using flash for shooting, did you all able or always balance the metering to 0?
I still yet to understand on how to use the metering when shooting with flash |
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Aug 3 2011, 05:42 PM
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#46
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 3 2011, 05:00 PM) Good question. It depends... Shooting a black or dark coloured object or background, the camera metering is usually fooled and will blow the exposure. So naturally you'd want to use negative EV compensation to bias the camera body metering. Could we put it this way, to make things simpler for both the camera + flash and the photog, set the metering to Matrix Metering and that should be able to pull out most of it?Likewise, if you're shooting white / bright object or background like snow, the metering would be fooled and would underexpose. So you should use positive EV compensation to bias the camera body metering. Flash or no flash, just use the rules above. Particularly in events where movements are quick where you even have sufficient time to lock your focus therefore you'll need to act fast too. In this kind of situation, how would you configure your camera and flash? I would like to get clarification, guidance and tips on this too, when and how we should adjust the Exposure Compensation (+/- EV). QUOTE(Andy214 @ Aug 3 2011, 05:10 PM) Let's say the metering is correct and not affected by the background. Metering at 0 or over, I suppose it'll work like filling in? Some senior actually advised me not to always review on the photos after snapping, look unprofessional In Manual mode, if you're way underexpose, the flash might not have enough power to lit up the environment or bring to proper exposure. So, it really depends; For me, I see the output of the picture, I don't want the Flash too bright as well as the photo underexpose. So, need to get it about right. I'm not sure if there is a way like "flash metering" in the camera, so you don't have to guess or after flash, then see your flash whether it blinks? Anybody? And by the way, sometimes when taking photos, the pictures turn out muddy; It seems like the focus did not acquire correctly or there is not enough contrast, but the focus did lock on. Until we zoom in from the camera, then we can see how "muddy" the picture is, the noise/grain destroying the details of the face. However, when it locks on accurately, the same settings, the picture will turn out great. Any ideas? It's annoying especially if you have to keep review in detail to make sure. Is this due to not enough contrast or focusing problem? |
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Aug 3 2011, 07:44 PM
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#47
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
QUOTE(wke002 @ Aug 3 2011, 06:40 PM) Newbie to DSLR. Just got meself a d7000 kit and still going thru the manual. my dream was to get a nikon when was young but could not afford. After busy with other commitment, finally Need advice, I need to get either a 35mm or 50mm for regular day to day shots of kids at home. am confused which lens can be autofocus. saw some 1.8G or 1.8D, i think which is below rm800 as compare to 1.4. need to ask if i get the D (cheaper), would it have autofocus? I know the G got autofocus. Thanks ya. QUOTE(chianping @ Aug 3 2011, 07:34 PM) i am going to get a 50mm f/1.8 to try first b4 getting a 35mm or a f/1.4.Dun wanna spend so much on a lens tht i not familiar with. Why not get familiar with your kit lens first before prime? What reason(s) support your decision to get the prime? Care to share out? |
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Aug 3 2011, 07:56 PM
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#48
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
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Aug 3 2011, 08:12 PM
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#49
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QUOTE(kEazYc @ Aug 3 2011, 07:57 PM) I would like to share mine, i decided to get d7000 + kit + 35mm f1.8g, reason why i get that prime is because i know i'm going to shoot a lot of portrait shot + the bokehness, and of course some family photos or friends, and i know most of the place i will be are low lights, the f1.8 will helps a lot. I would like to recommend you to get the BG as well since you expecting to take lots of portraiture Flashgun may be not necessary, but it's good to have especially when you're shooting in low lights area. QUOTE(MichaelJohn @ Aug 3 2011, 07:58 PM) Yea , i know that would be obviously the answer... I'll be getting a 50mm f/1.8G this weekend. Finally after the long waits But still , better get 35mm first , or stick to a 50mm and get another lens |
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Aug 3 2011, 09:05 PM
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#50
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QUOTE(wke002 @ Aug 3 2011, 08:57 PM) Thanks Ya. so mine with internal motor can used both, can one say the G is with motor inside and the D does not. but both will work well with my d7000? OK, basic facts first.Auto-Focus will work if EITHER body OR lens has motor built-in. In your situation, your D7000 HAS motor built-in. Therefore, EITHER G (with motor) OR D (without motor) will WORK on your DSLR with AUTO-FOCUS. So, you're not worried about getting the G or D. And if you're asking why people still recommend G even thou you could have get the cheaper version D, it's because G is able to provide sharper image compared with the D. Nothing to do with the motor built-in, but because G has a better glass construction. Have you familiarize with your 18-105 kit lens? |
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Aug 3 2011, 11:08 PM
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#51
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QUOTE(chianping @ Aug 3 2011, 10:50 PM) i have being using kit lens for the past year. wanna try to take some potrait with bigger aperture. Recently seen too many impressive bokeh pic so wanna try it out .Some might think it is a waste of money as it might be the photographer skill and not the lens or equip. Wow, one year with kit lens only. Ok ok... that should make sense Added on August 3, 2011, 10:52 pm yup correct ... .35mm just barely above my budget and since i am testing out prime lens .. might as well just try within budget =) Well, if you never try any bokeh lens before and you wanted to achieve such effect, the 50mm f/1.8G will feel like another new horizon for you when you're experiencing it Sometime, not everything related to skill although it is one big chunk of overall Like kayshoun said, you should be on the right pick for 50mm f/1.8G instead of 35mm f/1.8G for bokehness. |
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Aug 4 2011, 02:04 PM
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#52
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
I still have no idea what celciuz and Andy214 are discussing about
Inaccurate focus issue causing muddy (blur image as in taken via digital zoom by PnS or handphone look-like) ? |
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Aug 4 2011, 02:33 PM
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#53
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
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Aug 4 2011, 06:29 PM
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#54
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7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
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Aug 4 2011, 10:00 PM
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#55
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Anyone can confirm with me this, MB-D11 for D7000 is Made in China, right? Or only mine is the unique one?
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Aug 5 2011, 12:12 AM
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#56
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QUOTE(eugene88 @ Aug 5 2011, 12:03 AM) If you buy body with kit lens, then you can straight away shoot once you bought it.If you buy body only, then you will need to purchase the lens separately (any lens as long as it fits Nikon's mount) to start shooting. Buying lens is pretty subjective, it depends on what you want actually |
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Aug 6 2011, 12:20 AM
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#57
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QUOTE(RobustRobot @ Aug 5 2011, 10:10 PM) Just bought 2nd SB-900 today at RM1350? Since buying quite some stuff, managed to get further RM50 discount on the flashgun QUOTE(eugene88 @ Aug 5 2011, 11:45 PM) I finally had a hands on with the D7000 at PC Expo Weight and size can be very subjective, I stills find the D7000 small and light It was quite heavy but it feels really solid compared to D3100 |
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Aug 7 2011, 10:43 AM
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#58
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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 6 2011, 02:40 PM) Can't say it's my favourite yet, but managed to get good prices from there compared with other shops QUOTE(arsengal @ Aug 7 2011, 01:16 AM) Posted before..."OK, basic facts first. Auto-Focus will work if EITHER body OR lens has motor built-in. In your situation, your D7000 HAS motor built-in. Therefore, EITHER G (with motor) OR D (without motor) will WORK on your DSLR with AUTO-FOCUS. So, you're not worried about getting the G or D. And if you're asking why people still recommend G even thou you could have get the cheaper version D, it's because G is able to provide sharper image compared with the D. Nothing to do with the motor built-in, but because G has a better glass construction." QUOTE(freddy manson @ Aug 7 2011, 09:29 AM) Wide, but not enuff for Dx.. Price also in range with Tokina116 Creative Photo at Damansara Uptown offering RM680 while Foto Selangor offering RM650 Price also different.depending on which shop; Range is like, 50f1.8D RM380, 50f1.8G RM800 |
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Aug 9 2011, 11:11 AM
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#59
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QUOTE(-kytz- @ Aug 9 2011, 09:48 AM) OK, let's get this back on track. Can we start with how to get accurate skin tone? Some of my photos taken in an event recently turned out to be yellowish like kena sunset sun I tried to use spot metering, but then it'll overblown the photo. Any guide and tips on this? QUOTE(a.ihsan @ Aug 9 2011, 10:45 AM) I'm hoping to buy an SB-700 in the coming months. any of you bought one recently? if yes, where from and at what price? thanks in advance RM990 @ Foto Selangor. May able to get further discount but then it lies on your negotiation skill. |
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Aug 9 2011, 06:12 PM
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#60
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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:24 AM) The yellowish should be due to WB. If you don't want to mess with Custom WB and those sort, you can try to correct the WB in LR, and also using the recovery slider. Yeah, I understand the yellowish skin tone due to my WB. However, I'm not sure on how to capture the color as accurately as possible for straight out from camera photos (I remember there is a term for this, but couldn't recall That is possible with spot metering as it meter for the spot, if the spot is dark, it will increase the exposure. You can use EV compesation, but this means to review and re-take, Or you can use backeting? I face this problem too, due to changing situation, some photos get overblown and since it's an event, for moving or scene which you can't always review the picture, it's bad. So, I switch back to M mode. The bad part of M mode is, if the lighting changes drastically during the "duration", it'll affect your photo unless you notice it and quickly adjust, but this is kind of hard (example: Wedding March In, you can use M mode, when you take the people behind the couple later, which doesn't have spotlight, the will turn out darker than the couple shots). I'm using Matrix Metering mode all the while in the event I'm shooting. Tried to used Spot Metering, but the tendency of overblown the exposure is very high. Therefore, I kept the settings on Matrix Metering and AWB. I shoot event where movements are fast and I wouldn't be able to pace up with it if I tend to keep changing the settings QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:54 AM) I assume you're using flash under tungsten lighting? Yeah. To be exact, flash under uneven lighting. Some yellow some white.Use tungsten gel (or any type of gel to match ambient lighting) and set to tungsten WB on the camera. Adjust accordingly in RAW. QUOTE(chiahau @ Aug 9 2011, 02:02 PM) Flash gel or Kelvin WB manual adjust. Flash gel should be easier, at least in my opinion. Kelvin WB takes quite some time to learn. I'm not sure if it's only me to be sceptical, I find that photos above ISO1600 on D7000 has intolerable noise. Well, I turned off both the NORMAL and HIGH ISO NR to preserve the details. Hmm... did not try on luminance setting processing with LR. Usually, what's the level of luminance to be recommended? Is there any recommended value?1600 where got high? Normal la.. 3200 above only I consider high lol. QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM) Bro, apala? Using gel, u also need knowledge on how kelvin WB works. On the field, custom WB is the easiest ler. Furthermore, what if he wasn't usig any flash? Yo bro !ECS aka vearn, using autoWB or wrong WB presets will cause what u mentioned there. Easiest way is shoot AWB in RAW and post process later to your liking if the lighting condition changes very rapidly. To learn how to custom WB in a fairly constant lighted room, it's pretty simple. Bring along a White piece of paper or tissue for your WB calibration. There, perfect WB in an instant! Well, I face the situation where the place has uneven lighting. As per mentioned above, some white and some yellowish. Given if I needed to handover the photos as soon as the event over, how would be the best method to capture the color tone as accurately as possible in a fast moving event? Free to yumcha moh? Need tunjuk ajar leh |
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