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> Wiring guide : 3 color wire (green, blue,black), Which one neutral, live and earth

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ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(Fazab @ Sep 8 2014, 06:03 PM)
Reviving an old thread to get advice from sifus.......

I jut bought bout 3 dozen lights for new house, mostly ceiling mounted led panels.

The shop's installer say standard rate is RM15 to install one light.  shakehead.gif

I reckon each job will require : 2 screws to fit light to ceiling, connect 2 wires, pop the cover back.

Most of the ceiling is plaster ceiling board. Drilling not a problem.
So I am thinking to DIY myself.
Before I fried myself or burn a row of houses, can sifus check if I got the theory part right :

Most of my lighting points like this : 

[attachmentid=4125683]  [attachmentid=4125699]    [attachmentid=4125701]

Q1
The middle wire can be red, yellow or blue. I think this is the wireman's way to identify each 'loop'
Correct?

Q2
So the Black = Neutral;  Red/Yellow/Blue = Live;  Green is Earth.
Correct?
[attachmentid=4125688]   

Q3
The LED lights has 2 tiny blue wires. These are to be connected to the Neutral (Black) and Live (R/Y/B)
Which way also OK. Correct?

Q4
No need to use Earth (Green) wire.
Correct ah?

Q5
There are two black and green wires each because of looping. Just leave them alone. Don't pull out.
Correct?
*
Q1 = that is live wire. Not loop. And probably a 3phase wire. Which each color represent R, S, T.

Q2 = correct.

Q3 = if the wire have same color, that mean no polarity. Which way also can.

Q4 = if your downlight casing is metal, you need to ground it. In case the light short and somebody touch it.

Q5 = correct. If you pull out, others light will not light.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 08:45 PM)
how you guys connect the wires together?
using those terminal blocks
http://www.mdnsupplies.co.uk/shop/terminal-block-lg.jpg

or these electrical caps?
http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Proje...U_WIRCON_01.JPG
*
Can be say, all the local using terminal block.

Most of the western is using cap.

But I using molex connector.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 08:54 PM)
molex needs special crimping tool right but for lights is okay, i guess
terminal blocks - i scared it melts and the two terminal touch.
caps - i dont know if it will work or come loose for  big gauge wire and one small wire (like you connect those drivers to existing wiring)

any advice?
*
Molex connector are more secure and can run higher amp. Can plug/unplug without switch off. No wrong connection pluging since it have a 1way connect. But yes, it need tool to clamp.

Terminal block have been using for very longtime. If the wire size is big, use bigger terminal. It doesn't melt. But after some longtime, the plastic start to degrade. The bad about it is that the thick gauge wire will easy broken if the screw too tight.

Caps is easy to use. No tool use. Just hand. You need to twist the wire together first. Than twist the cap into the wire till it lock. Don't worry about it. It pretty secure. Unless you not lock it tight enough. It come in many size. So use correctly.

There is another type of cap. Which also twist the wire and cap in. Instead of twist the cap, this cap need tool to clamp it. Pretty common in local here.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:17 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 09:08 PM)
nowadays the terminal blocks also low quality. sometimes the screw got no thread wan, or bad thread so they come loose and arc. got no branded terminal blocks?
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Oh forget. Terminal block is prefer mostly here is because it easy to make connection to your light. The developer just standby the wire with terminal block at the box.

If using cap, developer cannot put a cap on the wire. The wire will be bare like that. It is dangerous.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 09:13 PM)
if one wire is thick (those stiff type - not many strands) and one wire is tiny (very thin), I think the cap may not hold them and the thin wire may come loose. if both wires same size I think i have more confidence they be ok in the long run.

Im gonna get a bunch of different size to try but have to waste the whole bag if its wrong
*
Easy. Teach you some trick.

Strip the insulator of both wire longer. Twist together. Than bend the wire u shape. Put the cap in. When you bend the wire u shape, it lock both wire. So you can't pull the small wire out.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(Fazab @ Sep 8 2014, 09:20 PM)
Thanks a bundle

Q4 -  casing is aluminium I think. All ceiling light, minimum 8 feet high. How to ground it? 

[attachmentid=4125931]

That more or less how they look like.
*
You need another green wire to touch the alu casing. Either secure by the screw lock on the casing.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 09:29 PM)
ok will try that. ya man if i use terminal blocks, i also scared the thin wire will break if screwed on too tight...sigh
btw developers where got put terminal blocks for you? they leave it bare. they cut the insulation a bit and twist together.
*
Walau er. Cost down till like that. Not expensive ma the terminal block. mad.gif

Last time I still can see terminated with a terminal block on it.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 8 2014, 09:34 PM)
user posted image
you see how thin these wires....
*
This 1 not thin la. Got more worst than this. Specially those cheapskate china electrical.
ozak
post Sep 8 2014, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Sep 8 2014, 11:11 PM)
If Wires too thin, the block will not secure the wires properly. Fold back the wires into the wire insulator, so the top is copper, bottom is wire insulator, put it on the terminal block. This way you secure the wires, and copper are properly touching the conductor.
*
This way the wire always break inside the insulator after tight the screw. And there is possible the thin wire didn't touch the screw at all. Just the insulator is tight by the screw.

There is another way is to get a straight metal connector. Clamp the wire on it. Than screw it to terminal block.
ozak
post Sep 9 2014, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(Fazab @ Sep 9 2014, 07:53 PM)
I was going to ask this question.

plaster ceiling guy say can drill, but must find when is the supporting steel bars, and fix the screw thru that.

but he didn't tell me how to find the steel bar from below. I need X-ray eyes.......?

Magnet?
*
Easy la. Just get some plaster ceiling screw plug. Come in few shape and style. Google it.
ozak
post Apr 30 2015, 06:15 PM

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QUOTE(Fazab @ Apr 30 2015, 04:33 PM)
OK, I got into another silly situation.

Wanted to fit timer and sensor switches to front and back lights before balik kampung long weekend.

But the only wireman who will do this 'small job' failed to turn up -  twice.
So for last minute desperate measure, I plan to buy socket timers, plugs, and long wires.

I will fit the wire --> plug --> then plug into timer --> wall socket 

Then I will temporarily swap the wires from the lights to the new wires (connect using terminal blocks)

Now the lights will be connected thru socket timers

I think this will work. Is there ANYTHING that I need to be careful of? Overlooked?

Sorry, I DIY a lot, but a bit panciky when come to electric.

The wires will be 10 - 20 feet long.  Bankrupt.....
*
Just don't get yourself injure. Makesure you tape the incoming wire properly that temporary not use.
ozak
post Apr 30 2015, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(aranel @ Apr 30 2015, 04:56 PM)
Hi !

Need expert advise, I have few unused wall lighting extension.
I was wondering can I use it as the power for radio or for charging phone / notebook?

I was thinking of buying extension power cord and connect to the wire extension.

Can it take the load?

Please advise!

Thanks in advance.
*
What is lighting extension ?
ozak
post Jan 2 2018, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Jan 2 2018, 11:46 AM)
hi, do downlight need to connect Earth as usually they only have Live & Neutral and unlike surface mounted they have plastic casing.

so for surface mounted can i just use an earth crimp connector (looks like a washer) and put it in between the light support mount & the screw onto the ceiling?

what about normal pendant lights? same thing connect earth to metal part of the body?

and do contractors normally pull Earth wire when doing looping for downlights or just pull Live & Neutral?
*
Any metal frame need to be ground it.

You need to advise the contractor to pull the earth wire together if they don't.
ozak
post Jan 2 2018, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Jan 2 2018, 01:51 PM)
ok, so for downlight no need because their casing are made of plastic, just need to remember to turn off switch & DB when changing it as the clips are still metal?
*
It is for safety. Not just changing the light.
ozak
post Jan 2 2018, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Jan 2 2018, 02:07 PM)
ok so for Recess Downlight Round one do we need to ground it?
*
If have metal casing, ground it.
ozak
post Jan 5 2018, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(CooKies37 @ Jan 4 2018, 11:55 PM)
Actually I am also facing the same issue.

Anyone can confirm what is the correct line configuration in the picture?

Live + Neutral?  ???
*
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3554748/+1640

ozak
post Jan 5 2018, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(CooKies37 @ Jan 5 2018, 09:51 AM)
I don't understand? That thread just discuss about some switch from china require N line or no.

I am asking about the photo posted, is it all Live only? or there is N line? or ???
*
Only Live incoming and out going.

No neutral.
ozak
post Nov 18 2020, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(aeiou228 @ Nov 18 2020, 04:39 PM)
Hi, anyone can identify which L and N wires goes to Load? because there is no Load marking on the switch itself. I only see only L1, L2 and L3.
The white colour wire is incoming Live from the DB and I need to find out which is the incoming N and out going L and N that goes to the Load.

PDL 20A switch
[attachmentid=10690957]

View from the bottom
[attachmentid=10690958]

View from the top
[attachmentid=10690960]
*
If you switch ON and the red light is ON, than the wire from DB is bottom. (2nd pic)

Cause the red light lamp attach to the TOP.

This post has been edited by ozak: Nov 18 2020, 07:19 PM
ozak
post Nov 19 2020, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(aeiou228 @ Nov 19 2020, 11:07 PM)
Like this ?
[attachmentid=10694167]

Yes, the red light is lighted. So the small led wire should be connecting L (load) to N (load) right?
*
yup. correct.

When switch ON, the load side have electric flow. Than will light up the light.
ozak
post Dec 10 2020, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(williamchiew @ Dec 10 2020, 05:59 PM)
Hi all,

I have a noob questions to ask for help. I'm trying to figure out whether I can loop a power point for use like laptop or charge phone from existing light switch.

Is that possible to add that? Or still need wiring like neutral and earth.
Is a bit hard for me to get the neutral and earth wiring as it's all sealed inside a partition wall.

Thanks in advance.

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
*
Without N and E, not possible.

And the switch wiring also wrong connection. The COM should be L (yellow) and loop to another COM.

Red and blue should be at L1 each.

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