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 PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V13

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barnhammer
post Jul 2 2011, 05:08 PM

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Got my saga FL 1.6 last thursday thursday, my dad try the car, tekan full throttle till 100kmph until red line, belum clock even 10km on the ODO... aduih.... sakit.... anyway


first thing i did was changed the tyres to michelin XM1 for rm 180 a piece, traded in the ducaro GA's for rm 145 a piece biggrin.gif

Attached Image



The next day my soundproofing items arrived, straight i strip the boot out and plaster it all in.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Could be better, but not enough materials, under order pulak



Next thing i found out is, the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs i ordered, cannot fit due to not correct size... =/

This post has been edited by barnhammer: Jul 2 2011, 05:11 PM
barnhammer
post Jul 2 2011, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 2 2011, 05:18 PM)
he is breaking in your car...so no worry
but dn't do it too often
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you're serious =.=

im about to go to penang for clubbing tonite, should i red line the car on and off till i reach there? odo is about 40km now..
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(NewbieBetta @ Jul 2 2011, 06:18 PM)
barnhammer,

what material did u use? how is the insulation outsome,noticeable?
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some bitumen strips, and cell like foam for both bonnet and boot.


btw, guys, i tried red lining the car on the NS highway just now.

dropped to 3rd gear (auto) and went from 100 to 160 and held it there for 5 seconds, break in enough d ar? milage is now 600km biggrin.gif





barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 11:56 AM

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One thing i notice today ar, my car got supercharger whine XD it comes from the front passenger side/firewall area of the car ...

and when the iafm switches to short runner, at 4k or so, it sounds like aeroplane taking off, a turbo spool wan?
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 12:21 PM

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hmm, okays.

any oil recommended? i was thinking bardahl 5w-30 fully syn @ rm 95 or Lexus Fully syn 5w-40 @ rm 140 or castrol edge 0w-40 @ rm145

another thing is that the FC is terrible, its like pumping for a BMW 328i, i heard from a friend, can request for ECU reflash at the SC?

This post has been edited by barnhammer: Jul 4 2011, 12:22 PM
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jul 4 2011, 12:24 PM)
Bro, the ECU and engine oil used is not a big factor for FC contribution, it negligible...

control your right foot is the only solution,

But of cos if ur place is jam like no tmr, even Kancil will become BMW, right?
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ouhz, then use what oil? even my old tiara also use bardahl 5w-40 laugh.gif

it wasnt jammed, penang to sungai petani and then to taiping




QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 4 2011, 12:25 PM)
NO...u stick with 10w-40
dn't request reflash....your car is still new...that's why FC is bad
service 2-3 more times...it will get better...it's very normal
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if reflash, i thought will revert it to default?

but why 10w-40? any particular reason? if 10w-40, any oil to recommend?
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 4 2011, 12:45 PM)
resetting the ECU is useless
cuz your car is new...which is the reason your FC is bad
service few more time and it will get better...this car is that weird
u won't get good FC until 10K KM
using 10w-40 is best of both world....good enough for pickup and not too light until will damage engine
u can go lighter until 10w-30....dn't go too light as your car is still too new


Added on July 4, 2011, 12:48 pm
not sure...
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oh ok =/

how about castrol edge 0w-40? fully syn, tesco i saw quite cheap biggrin.gif

I thought new car or small CC cars ( less then 1.4L) can only use lighter oils because its better?




QUOTE(xshiro @ Jul 4 2011, 01:42 PM)
omfg..................................................... aihz.......... feel regret liao....

nvm la..... when it comes out and if its better, i change car lar.

1.6L + CVT got? biggrin.gif
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 4 2011, 05:21 PM)
your car is too new...thus not ready
plus i dn't recommend anything below 10w-30
too thin...and it will void warranty if u do so
lets say it like this...the thinner the oil, the lesser the protection to the engine but of course good pickup since its light
which is why u see old car using 20w50
15w-40/15w-50 is recommended by SC....it's good for the engine since it's thick but bad for pickup and FC
so my recommendation ...best would be 10w-40/10w-30 cuz it's at the middle point
not too thin until no protection...not to thick until sacrifice pickup and FC
0w-40 is like water thin...i personally dn't recommend it
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ahh i see..... ok.

will get the 10w-40's



by the way, any nice silent tyres for our BLM's?

using stock rim 14"

swapped to michelin xm1 on day 1 from Ducaro GA, feel like not up to my expectation, got any others to recommend? will open garage sale soon to sell it off.
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 09:54 PM

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this was how i broke in the car haha......
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 10:22 PM

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eh MR_alien bro,

should i break in the car more or not?
barnhammer
post Jul 4 2011, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(gagak_84 @ Jul 4 2011, 11:02 PM)
Fully synthethic below RM140 is very bad quality of Fully.. first time i heard fully RM95.. please check whether that oil is imitation.

used 10w40 enough already for ur blm.
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Bardahl is a very old brand in the 1980's up to today.

Recent checks, its a Group -III oil but heavily refined by BHP.


Castrol Edge get thiers from BHP, its suppose to be a Group IV, but some are Group III, only lab testing can prove this.


True Fully Sunythetic oils are AmSoil, and some others. Base IV and base V esters.
barnhammer
post Jul 5 2011, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 4 2011, 11:46 PM)
So how does the "Man-in-the-street"/common car owner know which oils are truly fully synthetic? What we only hv are the Brand names and the API classification (eg SM?).  icon_question.gif
Can such BIG names like Mobil, Castrol, etc, wrongly label their Fully Synthetic oils when they are not?  rclxub.gif
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Hmm, use google to research the oil you want.

API classifications are just a indicator, the standards are still low. It doesnt mean the manufacturer has to point out if its a Base III, Base IV or Base V.

Price sometimes are not indicative of the oils performance.

Big brand names do it all the time, I wont say that they are NOT fully synthetic, just that it is Fully refined smile.gif hence they are not cheating you. There is noone to actually control what synthetic is, semi synthetic and Dino oil.

But i know for a fact, if you buy a bottle of say, shell helix ultra, and shell normal yellow bottle one, mix at a ratio of 25:75
you get an approximate of the shell HX7 semi syn.
barnhammer
post Jul 7 2011, 11:42 AM

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guys, have you encountered this problem before ar?

was driving around last night, then checkengine light lighted up in orange and stayed there.

then i just realize when cruising previously, the car will do a slight jerk, not on gear changes etc. just a slight jerk every 1 minute or so

milage 700km only....
barnhammer
post Jul 20 2011, 10:50 PM

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Educated a friend of mine why the 1.6 IAFM Auto is powderful on short runs.
barnhammer
post Jul 20 2011, 11:00 PM

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tq bro biggrin.gif

me dunno why dunno how to link youtube =/

noob sia.


installed front strut bar, rear bar and anti roll bar, cornering damn stim now.

plant to install the rest next friday for the weekend drive around tongue.gif

btw, any way to squeeze more power out of the engine? abit no shiok when less then 3k rpm

mods done so far are:

- installed VS and grounding cable ( better lights, thats about it)
- strut bars ( front upper, front lower, rear ARB, rear strut, and rear torsion)
- drop in K&N filter


planning to install IGX iridium plugs, any serious benefits or just snake oil?
barnhammer
post Jul 23 2011, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(sg999 @ Jul 23 2011, 03:34 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

CVT/MT both have better fc compare to previous AT/MT
i think MT they changed gearbox also
maybe rpm will lover
since japan company dun let proton change gear ratio and now they changed AUS gearbox so can adjust GR as proton like.haha
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i feel butthurt liao......

less then 1 mth i got my FL 1.6 AT...... come out this CVT and abs.

anyone wanna buy my car? milage 3k. serviced with shell helix ultra.

price rm 40k ono
barnhammer
post Jul 23 2011, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jul 23 2011, 12:30 PM)
they spend money for their "luxury car" but has no confidence in it. laugh.gif

Anyways, I would like to know how the Saga feels when outstation travelling. I'll be travelling across states most of the time and that Myvi with its sampan characteristic and also light steering (Thanks, Toyota, lol) is a definite no no for me. Normally on highways I'll do 100-130km/h most of the time.

My current Japanese Brand car has since been returned to my friend because it has a lot of problems like cracked wheel bearing and a slightly crooked driveshaft. Now considering between a second hand 08' Saga and 06' Waja. Both are RM30k.
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I travel between kl and northern region, i clock about 1k km a week laugh.gif

its quite alright la the saga BLM, just that need to do some improvements like anti roll bar, strut bars etc, else the feel for the rear of the car is somewhat like a vios at high speeds (above 100kmph)






QUOTE(sg999 @ Jul 23 2011, 12:53 PM)
heavy steering maybe help in highway drive
no more shaking steering like old myvi
new myvi equipped with EPS, will better?


Added on July 23, 2011, 12:54 pm
1.3 blm AT really underpower@@ icon_question.gif
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1.3blm at is not really under powered, just that it needs to be revved harder say 4krpm~5k rpm for over taking cars, which is easily done by dropping the gear manually.


Added on July 23, 2011, 9:00 pm
QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 23 2011, 08:56 PM)
your car is better than the ones with CVT and ABS la...keep it
the CVT and ABS is for 1.3L
if u want the 1.6L with CVT and ABS...have to wait till end of year
and i repeat the 1.6L is way better....CVT and ABS doesn't add HP and solve the underpower problem
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but i still feel butt hurt..... cvt is naise... only if proton got the ratio correct for highway. as for abs... i tend to slam brakes and whack corners pretty hard ( bad habit from my tiara tongue.gif) so its better if i dont have to skid a lil tongue.gif

the salesman didnt tell me, else i could have waited till end of the year for the 1.6 with cvt + abs...

now my tiara sitting in the car porch everyday doing nothing ( except weekends where i take it out and whack red line tongue.gif)

This post has been edited by barnhammer: Jul 23 2011, 09:01 PM
barnhammer
post Jul 24 2011, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Jul 24 2011, 11:48 AM)
I think VIOS has good power delivery in low end torque compared to CAMPRO, not so much because of 5 gears. That is why city drive it'll definitely beat SAGA in FC for city drive. Having a 5 speed for SAGA will give a better FC in the highway probably, but do nuts for city drive...which can barely reach 4th gear before the next traffic light.

Number of gears or speed step(CVT) have no bearings for city drive FC. I bet some old P2 autos with 3 gears autobox like Kenari probably have better FC than a SAGA, due to smaller engine and lighter chassis.
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vios only has 4 gears for AT la........

1st: 2.847, 2nd: 1.552, 3rd: 1.000, 4th: 0.700, Reverse: 2.343




saga blm
1stRatio : 2.842, 2ndRatio : 1.529, 3rdRatio : 1, 4thRatio : 0.712



the main reason why the FC is high is due to the ratios and the torque on the blm.

kenari AT also i have tried before, full tank rm 55 (ron 95 @ 1.9) gives about 300km? 320? mixed highway @ 110 and town driving.

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