my house is 22x75

Kitchen (RM3180)
-Labour for wall and floor tiles, table top (exclude tile)
-concrete 8' table top

Car porch (Rm3200)
- Lay concrete for garden
-remove existing tiles (abt 11'x5')
- labour and cement for tiling

Wet kitchen extend (22x5) - Rm6000
- construct new wall with window and door
- cement and concrete
- with ceiling & roof tiles

do you think my contractor is reasonable?

reasonable bro...extend kitchen only rm6000.that price ok already

---

Added on May 25, 2011, 2:27 pmreasonable bro...extend kitchen only rm6000.that price ok already

This post has been edited by Witchblade: May 25 2011, 02:27 PM

dont forget to get authority approval... else risk being summon or worst.. demolished

very reasonable lah.
where is your place and can forward me his contact please?
thanks.

haha im also want to know lah..share2 lah bro

Damnnnn Cheap...

very very very cheap

Be careful if is too cheap...quality may be a concern.

Kitchen extend RM6k mine double ur price le and mine is 20 x 10 hmm... mind giving me ur contract contact ? where is the location ??

I know is cheap as i have 7 contractors lists to compare with. Somehow bangla contractors about the same. All contractors are the same. U still have to everyday monitor what they doing at ur house. The contractor already started reno on 31th June, just hope he will do a good job. Actually this contractor is currently doing renovation @ my wife sister's house. She give everything to the contractor and i guess a bit slow progress but i heard the workmanship is good (indon worker is skillfull). I will see mine the progress and outcome. As mine do not give all the jobscope to the same contractor. I seperate out plaster ceiling, paint & electrical, plumbing to other contractor which is much cheaper compare to the same contractor doing..


@Kelvin5717
PMed you.

Hehehe! Just be sure that you do not add scope of work, it will be an opportunity for them to cut throat.

Wa lau, dam cheap on your kitchen extension.
Mine cost 20k++
Somemore use clay bricks

cheap! can intro number pm pls...

extend 6k is very cheap!...abit too good to be true.

I aware of that. Thats why i forced him to indicate everything agreed must written in the quotation of the scope of work. Because contractors like to use the word "later only kira"
Also i only ask contractor to quote more on the job scope, later only i deduct which want not to do and never increase job scope.

Even bangla quote me RM10k for behind extension(same scope). However, i just try my luck with this contractors and sometimes its better to give business to our local ppl rather foreigners if local can meet our budget.

This post has been edited by Gary1981: Jun 6 2011, 02:15 PM

how come never give me his contact?

Ha ha, later tambah again...
So far I havent got anything less than 20k
for kitchen extension...so I m wandering
whether this is the STD price all contractor
quote or kena cut throat.
I noticed a lot of contractor like to
add on cost....damn, must b sure of what
we want to do.

Dude,

contractors are businessman with mindset to maximize their profits. Does not matter contractors quote you high or low, they will definite find ways to maximize their profits. If they quote you Rm20k, they will still find ways to increase their profits as such pretending give you lower grade materials(sand bricks) & etc. It goes to the same for quote that below Rm20k.

Beside this contractors, i got a bangla quote me at Rm10k for kitchen extension. I had witness his workmanship which he did one of my neighbours house. Great things this bangla not even collect downpayment for job start, only collect after work start. If you interested, i can forward his contact. However, i do not let him do because i got this contractor quote which also a chinese contractor. BEtter give local rather to foreigners.

Rule of thumbs, ask contractors quote for more scope of work although you may not want to do. From there, only you reduce the job scope.
There are no STD price, just that some contractors want to drive BMW after finish one reno, some want only drive Proton after finish one reno.

Yet, i still have to go supervise everyday for the work.

Hi, mind to pm me ur contractor's contact? I need one too... thanks in advance..

Include material ?

can pm me the contractor details? Thanks

Very cheap. Hows the workmanship? Please share with photo.
PM me the contacts please....TXS

This post has been edited by JoJo(0^0): Jun 9 2011, 01:01 PM

Hacking and Digging 3" garden for concrete



Concrete side wall (initial is fencing)


Backyard

---

Added on June 10, 2011, 8:55 am
Backyard




This post has been edited by Gary1981: Jun 10 2011, 08:57 AM

where is tiang? it's kind of dangerous...

Not yet construct. There will be 3 tiang. One as u seen the white board on the floor location, and others are the gap between the bricks

what i mean is at the corner near to the wire fencing. need a tiang there..

Actual way should construct the "tiang" and beam first... Anyhow usually renovation wanted to save cost and time...

they usually place the brick then cover up and pour cement to make the tiang

easier and better for the cemeent to stick to the brick..

rather than build the tiang the cement the brick to the tiang..

Mine is difference, build pillar before put bricks. Because i ask to use RC slab, and make sure it support future upgrade to 2 stories. So my house kitchen area have concrete slab and thick footing on the ground.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jun 10 2011, 01:04 PM

exten only rm6k? sooooooooooo cheap. ahhaa

This is the method by my contractor.

as i know the basic step must do the the concrete slab and footing then bricks.. Are you sure your contractor method is ok???????

im aint a civil and structural engineer, but as long i've seen they got put concrete slab bottom and top, with steel rod and beam on 3 sides. I guess that is the basic requirement. As i have no intention to extend up 2nd floor in future.

If the rear extension is mainly on ground floor should is ok. The contractor need to locate the house rear beam and get the old"reinforcement bars" on the beam, join the bars to the new beam. So this will ensure the new wall and old wall will not crack and have hollow holes. My mom house had this problem when we pay the contractor do the job and he did not tie the bars to the original, now to fix it will be costly. Just live with it. Don't go for cheapest, go for quality and price matching, and ask why is more expensive how they do it.


My rear extension "maybe over done", 4 footing, each footing connected by a beam in the floor. Than top beam. Next time i need, just add brick and can make 1st floor. Also is RC slab, not normal clay roof

Indeed myself think too good to be true after been hunting for at least 7 contractor list...indon, bangla, chinese, malay...

Hi Gary,

can pm me the contractor contact details & yr location ? I need to do kit. extension also.

Thanks

Hi Gary,

can pm me the contractor contact details ? I need to do car porch. extension also.are you stay kota kemuning?

Thanks

Thanks for sharing.
Wish you the best on your renovation project.
The best thing about your thread
"OMG, sooo CHEAP!!"
Congrats !!

hi gary..
mind pm me the contractor no s well?
thanks a lot

Agreed but maybe diffent method cos only for ground floor.

But normally tiang goes 4 ft deep 2 ft wide underneath. Sth like tat anyway

Since you are using RC Flat roof, I suggest you to use waterproofed concrete for the 1st RC Floor slab.. This is to prevent water leak into your newly extended area.... Apart from that, you really required a good C&S sub-contractor to do RC Flat roof...

---

Added on June 22, 2011, 9:33 amUsing brick to support the Beam above is not Standard Practice...

a) Load shall be transferred to the RC Structure unless your wall is Load Bearing designed wall..

b) For future extension, if you extend to hack/remove the said wall, high chances you damaged the RC Structure (E.g Beam and Column)..

This post has been edited by sl2007: Jun 22 2011, 09:33 AM

sl2007, Thank you for the suggestion. Water proofing will be done for all expose RC slab. The RC roof is completed and the workmanship is acceptable. I can only wait for few month to make sure no crack. This i will hold the payment until 3 months later.

Will do water proofing after all other wet work complete.

Indeed i saw them hack the existing ground and construct a concrete with rod steel to merge with the existing ground with the new wall.

If you are using "expose type" water proofing system, then you need to get Specialist Contractor to do it and request them for a Warranty...

Is you RC Flat Roof concrete casted in one-go or else? You need to ensure all joint are well done...

Good luck to RC Flat Roof...

---

Added on June 22, 2011, 10:30 amThat is standard practice... But well, I guess your Sub-Contractor only used normal cement grout to grout it.... How about the length of the embedded rod, any idea of the length?


This post has been edited by sl2007: Jun 22 2011, 10:30 AM

Tied the new wall with existing ground with dig deep abt 2 feet with concrete+steel

---

Added on June 22, 2011, 11:01 am
All the tiang tiang, beam beam, concrete







This post has been edited by Gary1981: Jun 22 2011, 11:01 AM

Well, the length is acceptable for light weight loading...

Anyhow, the steel rod used doesn't seemed to approved type.... but not to be too worried, it still works...

Try to kick or step the steel rod and see whether does the concrete chip-off.. Anyhow becareful when you do it, cos if slip you might injured your leg seriously....

Bro, how to kick and step laa...steel rod not approved type? hmmm...too thin?

Maybe you can try to bengkok it with some pipe or etc....

Just my judgement from your photo :-

a) Type steel rod wasn't procured from Registered steel miller... The size looks abit smaller...

b) The overall size is small and usually we should use "Flower Rod" for Main Bar and use "Normal Rod" for links...

Is abit technical here, anyhow it wouldn't make a big difference if no additional floor or loading is placed on top...

TQ. Yes, is all expose type and casted in one goal, with proper gutter and level to allow water flow out. The contractor will guarantee of leak free, and I'll also make sure all the joining are leak free. Think they will be using

Funny, i remember many years back they use water proof cement , now they use waterproof compound.

Hi bro,

Is the final outcome of the Steel Rod before pouring the concrete ?

---

Added on June 22, 2011, 11:29 amYou are welcome... Well I not too sure how good is your SC workmanship during the concrete casting... May I know how thick is your slab?

Based on my experience, the Water Proofing compound required a precise workmanship to prevent water leakage...



This post has been edited by sl2007: Jun 22 2011, 11:29 AM

Yes

Now I know why it only amounted to RM6k for your Kitchen Extension....

BTW, does it include plastering, painting, roof, ceiling and etc wet works..?

Last i measure is 4"+, when they making holes for WC (after my wife want to relocate the WC again).

RC Flat roof need to paint with weathershield paint or not? or paint with any other material?

thanks

Not required, but waterproofing is a must.

Mind to elaborate it more? how should it be done?

Inclusive plastering, roof and ceiling and other wet works

I don't see any problem with the rebar expect its links are quite far separated and maybe it's pathetically tiny in the picture. However, I guess it should be pretty much sufficient for light weight loading. Well, maybe you should ask your contractor that how deep he slot in his starter bar. From what i see in the photo, protrusion is good enough, what about penetration?

Besides, RC slab for roof. You better sure that your contractor do water proofing for you. Otherwise, it will be pain in your ass in the future.

just 2 cent.

4"+... Acceptable... Anyhow you required to add a protective screed over the waterproofing....

protective screed?? What material is that? Can you explain more? thanks

---

Added on June 22, 2011, 11:59 amIf you don't paint, under the Sun, i afraid around 1-2 years, surface sure will crack...

I am thinking of this problem..because I have RC flat roof too...

This post has been edited by edwardsiow: Jun 22 2011, 11:59 AM

For standard practice, the RC Structure (E.g Beam, Column and etc) shall be done prior brick laying..

For renovation design, the Steel Rod usually should be 10-12mm Dia HT Bar @ "Flower Rod" with 6-10mm Dia MS Bar "Normal Rod" @ 300mm c/c links... All the Column supporting the brickworks shall be reinforced with 6mm Dia MS Bar at 450mm as Tie Rod...

Well some good point for your SC, at least they placed the Lintol above the window opening.. Please make sure they installed the Lintol on all opening... Based on the photo, Where is the Door Frame?

With RM6k for such extension, I guess the SC really struggling to finish up the job for you...

I do not really go measure the dia of the steel rod and tie rod.
The left side is the door. Thats why everyday i go supervise their job.

Who is installing the door and door frame? Cos usuall the Door Frame shall be installed prior completing the Brickworks?

Some will not put door frame if use conventional steel door. My contractor told me no need door frame is i am using the conventional steel door. If use security door it must come before the brick is up.

For normal wood door, the frame also need to be up too. Good Nytoh door frame not cheap.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jun 22 2011, 12:20 PM

Hi,

I not too sure what you mean by conventional steel door? Are you mentioning those Grille Type of door? If yes, you can work like that.. If your door required a frame, then your door frame installation will be messy and unsecured...

My grille supplier...

So you are using grille type door... Then should be fine....

If you are using Door which come with Door Frame, then I suggest you to inform your current SC a.s.a.p to prevent "double works"...

Cheers

Yup, is grille type door. Sorry i am not from Construction lingo. I learn and apply

just sharing

When i do renovation for my wet kitchen, I have a small partion for a 3' X 5' (without wall tiles but with floor tiles) store room with a wooden door just to keep my brooms, detergent, mop etc. Later i installed a shelf so i can keep more stuffs inside. And also I have a raise-up area for my washing machine so it wont get wet.

And also i installed one extra water tap to do hand- laundry washing.

This post has been edited by animeme: Jun 22 2011, 12:49 PM

Ok, there are several different type of water-proofing elements that is commonly used in Malaysia.

1. Water-proofing cement which is mostly used in many work
2. Water-proofing membrane which is an additional layer above your floor. This membrane is applied by roller (mostly). The only problem with this membrane is that inconsistency of applying the membrane layer.


I might have missed out some of other method of waterproofing but these works are roughly the same probably the only different elements used.

Sorry for the late reply, overlooked your reply...

Let me explain Technical Terms here before I put it in lay-man terms :-

a) Water Proof cement, I have not come across any of it... Anyhow, water-proofed concrete yes... What is Water Proofed concrete, it admixture of liquid water proof material been added into your concrete batching.. This is usually used in Water Retaining structure...

b) Liquified Water Proofing Compound, in technical was called Brush-On method.. Brush-On, you required at least 2 layer for toilet, bath and etc. For external use, 3 Layer is recommended...

c) Membrane Water Proofing, in technical was called Torch-On Method... This is kinda expensive method, usually used for External Area...

For both B & C above, if used in exposed area, a layer at least 40mm thick (to be standard) cement sand protective screed is required to covered the Water Proofing membrane/layer...

In lay-man terms :-

For Item A, called Concrete + Susu...

For Item B, rolled-on method...

For Item C, emm I have come across any others name....

Hope the above is cleared enough.... Happy & Cheers

The discussion in this topic has allowed me to learn a lot.
As I am now also renovating my house, I would appreciate some clarification.


The information you provided is good. We can at least know the basic requirement for the steel rod,
Is there any standard on how deep a columm should be dug in to the ground?
Do they dig a hole then pour concrete in?
When they pour the concrete for a columm, is it one shot from underground to the top of the beam or they can do it layer by layer.


Water Proofing and Protective screening, is it the same term?
If it is, is it used as a barrier to prevent water from leaking from 1 layer to the other?
Where is it necessary? It seems from the post in this forum, it is a requirement for RC (Reinforced Concrete) slab that is used as a top roof.
What about a normal non RC roof, is it required?
Any other location is this Water proofing required ( toilet floor. kitchen floor, driveway...etc)?


Thanks

Usually column sit on top of a Foundation (E.g Footing / Pilecap).. For foundation design, you need to know the soil bearing capacity of your house...

The concrete should be poured in one-go with minimum stoppage time.. Anyhow for small column, the whole column shall be poured complete till the soffit of beam..

Protective Screening, I never come across... Protective Screed yes.. Both Protective Screed and Water Proofing are two different component.. Water proofing is used to prevent water leakage and only usually applied on First Floor onwards especially the wet area (Bathroom and etc)

yes, bro sl2007 is giving the right info.

Totally forgotten bout water-proofing concrete which like said an admixture with concrete. It's not only used on water retaining structure but also some of foundation design and around lift pit. Well, very much dependent on the design requirement.

@phoenix
The depth of the rebar (which you called steel rod) usually required specifically calculated from engineer. However, many of the experienced contractor would use in lay man term, a specific ratio to its diameter of rebar. Like how much for its starter bar and how deep it should be linked to its support (footing,pilie cap). Like mentioned above, columns are usually lay above its footing or pilecap. There are some special scenario that the column lay on ground beam, again it is also very dependent how heavy the load the column will have to transfer to its support.

It's possible that they pour cast the footing and column at one time but it would be more tedious during casting time.

This post has been edited by kian26: Jun 22 2011, 10:58 PM

wow... 6k, its worth the money... Mind to share the contact of the contractor and ur location?

6k is way too cheap to have good construction practice


additional info of brush on method :

cementitious type normally use for toilet/swimming pool/ pond/ r.c roof...

Bituminous type normally use at R.C retaining wall



i guess TS kitchen extension do not have any foundation/ footing. the contractor just hack off some small part of the drainage's brick and plant the "column" starter bar. the load from roof/ brick wall will transfer directly to the drain wall

this is std practice of renovation contractor, its just a single storey so it won't collapse but u'll see some cracks on it later

this is std practice of renovation contractor, its just a single storey so it won't collapse but u'll see some cracks on it later

[/quote]

since this is std practice for contractor, just wonder those contractors that charges 20k or 30k really a cut throat

The job look acceptable for the price you pay, please pm me the contractor contact. thanks bro.

[quote=Gary1981,Jun 23 2011, 11:36 PM]
this is std practice of renovation contractor, its just a single storey so it won't collapse but u'll see some cracks on it later

[/quote]

since this is std practice for contractor, just wonder those contractors that charges 20k or 30k really a cut throat

[/quote]


Mine contractor build footing, pillar, beam and slab before brick work. All the clay brick only come in 1 month later.

[quote=weikee,Jun 24 2011, 10:34 AM]
since this is std practice for contractor, just wonder those contractors that charges 20k or 30k really a cut throat

[/quote]
Mine contractor build footing, pillar, beam and slab before brick work. All the clay brick only come in 1 month later.

[/quote]

my contractor supply footing , columns/ beams, floorslabs, brickwalls, new roof cost around 16k.

This post has been edited by IvanLai: Jun 24 2011, 10:51 AM

[quote=IvanLai,Jun 24 2011, 10:50 AM]
Mine contractor build footing, pillar, beam and slab before brick work. All the clay brick only come in 1 month later.

[/quote]

my contractor supply footing , columns/ beams, floorslabs, brickwalls, new roof cost around 16k.

[/quote]

What kind extension?

sl2007,

Question to me or IvanLai?

To Ivan Lai...

extend wet kitchen only, around 9 *16 include dismantle existing brickwall, floor tiles and roof tiles.

Include material right.. Should be around that price la..

Yup. all in.. so i think the price still reasonable.


This post has been edited by IvanLai: Jun 24 2011, 02:39 PM

Mine is 22 X 10 = 27k. Details as follows:

4 footings (Y12 steel rod)
3 ground and roof beam (36 fr)
RC Slab (including water proofing)
plastering brick wall
laundry area : laminated glass and iron support
Install of wall tiles (labor only)
piping
4'X6' window panel



Is the price reasobale???

Guys, if you wanted to have some advice on pricing, maybe you guys can provide some basic measurement such total wall area, Beam, Column and Footing size and etc...

That will make life easier....

The below info is all i had from the contractor.. hope it's enough for u to evaluate the price.. thanks

1 Footing 4pcs (Y12 Steel)
2 Ground bean & up stair bean 36fr (i.e. 36fr x 2)
3 RC slab 153.6sqf (Y12 Steel)
4 Supply & plastering brick wall 420sqf
5 4’x6’ aluminium sliding window
6 Supply & install steel door frame
7 Demolish exiting brick wall
8 Concrete slab 153.6sqf
9 Piping work for kitchen
LAUNDRY AREA
10 Supply & plastering brick wall 184sqf
11 Supply 2pcs iron grill
12 Install tiles wall , floor 573.6sqf (new kitchen area & no include tiles)
13 Lemenited class 10mm 60sqf
14 Iron steel for support lemenited class

---

Added on June 24, 2011, 3:42 pmadditional information:

My wet kitchen extension is split into two ares:

1) Kitchen (16X10) - covered by RC slab for future 2nd storey upgrade
2) Laundry (6X10) - top is laminated galss (but the footing is strong enough for 2nd storey upgrade as well)
3) Kitchen and laundy is spearate by wall

This post has been edited by ryaneng: Jun 24 2011, 03:42 PM

see below link another contractor

http://lifestylereno.blogspot.com/

Damn cheap la bro.. pau habis a.. 6k? fuh.. can't get that price in Miri.
Make sure they finish all the job and after few months just bayar habis.. in case the workmanship is buruk or incomplete. Good luck!

Hi bro,

RM16k for everything right... Boleh la.... Hopefully you SC able to finish the work... Good Luck

hi, bro..
it's 27k.. not 16k..lol

my contractor stated in the quotation 2 new pillar with sla bfor my kitchen extension, 20 x 8 ft, wonder is that sufficient since here all have 3 - 4 pillar

If you don't do first floor extension to the top should be good.

My front car porch is 6' x 21.5' (exact house measurement is 22') with slab he put in 2 beam only. But the center he extend the existing pillar out.