QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 9 2011, 01:19 AM)
i tot u tak interested main fb punya d[^.-]d LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V11 b[-.^]b, << [ We Ride. Why Don't You ? ] >>
d[^.-]d LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V11 b[-.^]b, << [ We Ride. Why Don't You ? ] >>
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Jun 9 2011, 01:21 AM
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Junior Member
360 posts Joined: Nov 2009 From: Penang |
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Jun 9 2011, 01:24 AM
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Senior Member
1,879 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
@NewGUY: I heard racing CDI like BRT, Rextor and etc, do not have connection to TPS, now i know y FC high....hehe
- Setting mia pasal... and some more sure modded. This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 9 2011, 09:32 PM |
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Jun 9 2011, 01:24 AM
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Junior Member
9 posts Joined: May 2009 From: Penang, Malaysia |
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Jun 9 2011, 01:26 AM
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Senior Member
1,879 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
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Jun 9 2011, 01:42 AM
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Junior Member
515 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Currently in Selangor |
QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 9 2011, 01:24 AM) @NewGUY: Hmm ok thanks, base on ur experience and theory, which combi can have power and durable at the same time...I heard racing CDI like BRT, Rextor and etc, do not have connection to TPS, now i know y FC high....hehe - Setting mia pasal... and some more sure modded. The above recommendation is to be more durable maybe.... 1) Big valve (bore the head and put hard spring) - Hard spring will wear out the valve seat faster. 2) stock carb - For daily use, this is easiest to set. 3) big block use FZ diasil - I personally think Diasil is Yamaha's way of mass producing engine block at the lowest cost. It is not durable than normal type engine block with steel liner. This is personal opinion only. 4) Stock exhaust (if need belah) - can pass block - Belah to remove 1 of the 3 silencer chamber is good enough. 5) Piggy back CDI. - Don't think got such thing for carburator. Only got piggy back for injector like FZ. means balance setup Any idea, alexei sifu? |
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Jun 9 2011, 02:58 AM
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Senior Member
1,879 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
QUOTE » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 9 2011, 09:32 PM |
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Jun 9 2011, 06:24 AM
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Aug 2010 From: 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956 |
Wow, how much you travel per-day ?
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Jun 9 2011, 06:31 AM
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Junior Member
473 posts Joined: Feb 2010 |
Alexi..I think the spocket better stick on 15-39...More durable and more reliable...I'm current using the combine which is 15-38...Feel underpower when go genting,,,
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Jun 9 2011, 08:43 AM
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Junior Member
16 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
QUOTE(0163119779 @ Jun 9 2011, 06:31 AM) Alexi..I think the spocket better stick on 15-39...More durable and more reliable...I'm current using the combine which is 15-38...Feel underpower when go genting,,, slow slow go up d lah genting .. even how powderful ur bike is ........ kita single cylinder lah bang .... jangan seksa dia .... Added on June 9, 2011, 8:44 am@mentah ... later teach me maths lah .. i fail my math at year 1 and year 2 Added on June 9, 2011, 8:45 am@ riderz http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1891709 < 11 june 2011 .. minat thn comment there ..let the TS update u in to the list This post has been edited by thianz: Jun 9 2011, 08:45 AM |
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Jun 9 2011, 08:49 AM
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Senior Member
1,879 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
15-38 sprocket not suitable for uphill already, should be fatter on the rear, like 40/41, then good. But when downhill, susah a bit.
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Jun 9 2011, 09:39 AM
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Junior Member
515 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Currently in Selangor |
QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 9 2011, 02:58 AM)
*]Big bore + Longer stroke (Performance).[list] [*]From 54.0×58.7 mm to 62x61.7mm (Effective 186.3 cc). I think i have this already [*]Standard steel cage engine bearings - FAG, SKF, NTN... (Durability). If damage might consider [*]Compression to 10:1 - Need to get machinist and foundry works (Performance). Stock is 10.9:1, I read somewhere if 1 decrease CR, just increase the gasket (using copper/suitable) between the head and block by few mm but no idea, how they calculate that... Increase CR is skim the head, right? [*]Stock cam and tapet. (Reliability) Port & polish (Performance). Shud be stock. Here, maybe when resetting tapet when it get loose can do port & polish [*]Stock pipe with bigger end outlet. No bedah (Performance). Cant imagine where u describing.... [*]API-SG engine oil 15W-50 (Reliability). Looks like diesel grade, is it? [*]Sprocket from 15-39T to 16-40T (Handling). Mmm... i think 16 kenot fit to crankcase thanks,again bro. i wonder how digest the above, u rockz man... |
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Jun 9 2011, 09:52 AM
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Newbie
1 posts Joined: Jan 2011 |
penang kia, iridium n 3 head type plug which 1 better if using ori coil? How bout if using uma coil?
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Jun 9 2011, 10:27 AM
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Junior Member
16 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
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Jun 9 2011, 10:49 AM
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Senior Member
1,879 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Medan, ID |
@NewGUY:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 9 2011, 09:33 PM |
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Jun 9 2011, 11:07 AM
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Newbie
1 posts Joined: Jan 2011 |
3 point spark plug izzit better than iridium spark plug?
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Jun 9 2011, 11:12 AM
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Junior Member
16 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
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Jun 9 2011, 11:23 AM
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Junior Member
515 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Currently in Selangor |
quote=alexei,Jun 9 2011, 10:49 AM]
[*]Compression to 10:1 - Need to get machinist and foundry works (Performance). Stock is 10.9:1, I read somewhere if 1 decrease CR, just increase the gasket (using copper/suitable) between the head and block by few mm but no idea, how they calculate that... Increase CR is skim the head, right? ==> If stock is 10.9, then I'll up it to 11+. This part here is tricky,i have discuss with other fren, if increase CR=compression ratio, CC=cubic capacity will reduce a bit.So CC slightly less does not make difference is it? [*]API-SG engine oil 15W-50 (Reliability). Looks like diesel grade, is it? ==> No. Today use API-SM, but I prefer SG from the old days. But SG series going phase out soon, whats the problem of SM grade for your point of view? For motorbike EO, got add a bit of gear oil is it? I ask most motorbike mechs, they say car EO cant use in bike, really cause more wear and tear? i use before EO 20-50W on car gearbox,nothing happen, more easier masuk gear....hmmm sorry ar, ask so many question This post has been edited by NewGUY: Jun 9 2011, 11:28 AM |
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Jun 9 2011, 11:37 AM
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Junior Member
360 posts Joined: Nov 2009 From: Penang |
No worries wan newguy.. Sharing info is okay.. =)
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Jun 9 2011, 11:40 AM
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Junior Member
16 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
QUOTE(NewGUY @ Jun 9 2011, 11:23 AM) quote=alexei,Jun 9 2011, 10:49 AM] faster go research apa car EO can put into our LC ..... coz now motor EO mahal nya ....[*]Compression to 10:1 - Need to get machinist and foundry works (Performance). Stock is 10.9:1, I read somewhere if 1 decrease CR, just increase the gasket (using copper/suitable) between the head and block by few mm but no idea, how they calculate that... Increase CR is skim the head, right? ==> If stock is 10.9, then I'll up it to 11+. This part here is tricky,i have discuss with other fren, if increase CR=compression ratio, CC=cubic capacity will reduce a bit.So CC slightly less does not make difference is it? [*]API-SG engine oil 15W-50 (Reliability). Looks like diesel grade, is it? ==> No. Today use API-SM, but I prefer SG from the old days. But SG series going phase out soon, whats the problem of SM grade for your point of view? For motorbike EO, got add a bit of gear oil is it? I ask most motorbike mechs, they say car EO cant use in bike, really cause more wear and tear? i use before EO 20-50W on car gearbox,nothing happen, more easier masuk gear....hmmm sorry ar, ask so many question |
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Jun 9 2011, 11:47 AM
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Junior Member
360 posts Joined: Nov 2009 From: Penang |
Oh ya.. My cousin use car EO on his bike.. So far no complain from him.. He say cheaper buy 4 liter.. He buy new honda wave only.. Have been using the car EO ever since.. =)
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