fix24311@
Refer to 1st post in 1st page for better understanding. few useful link is there.
if you want better handling, better choice should be 175/55/r14. slightly lesser tires' flex during hard cornering.
Also, lesser chances of inner parts contact.
then again, it's not advisable to drive harder in corner with naza sutera 

usually it was the lower profile tires which is always in front. but there are compromise
between tires width and profile size / purpose.

btw, quite a number of the tires' shop that i've had come across with electronic alignment actually doesn't do the job properly. they simply hook it up for the lulz, pretending they're doing something and bingo! even when the monitor is still showing 0.25 left and 0.65 right!
this is especially when they're busy with lots of car waiting.

dry and wet grip means performance, no ?

Yes you can change only the front tyres if the rear are still okay.  But you must change both the front tyres, i.e. 1 pair / 2 front tyres.

Falken ZE912 195 50 16 RM260x4
steel valves x4 RM40
alignment RM30
others (?) RM19
trade in -RM140

total RM989

july 2011, price may change

yoko a-drive aa01 has 155/65/13 and 165/60/13

the bestest for the size is michelim xm1(if you can find it)
2nd bestest is continental cc1
3rd --- yoko a-drive aa01

hmmm xm1 and xm2 is there much diff between them? how bout the price i check the internet both hv 155/65/R13 and 165/65/R13. Btw one weird thing is my goodyear gt3 155/65/r13 punctured yesterday and i replace my spare tyre which is the same model but 165/60/r13 but my steering turned out to be lighter then before, both of them are in 30psi @.@

hello guys,

i wondering for those who had changed their tyres,  do you offer to sell your old tyres to the tyre shop?or they just take the old tyre just like that?

Maybe around RM 200 - RM 230 per tyre. I saw CC5 is in my budget. Can anyone recommend me others?  

I am going to change tyre for 2nd time.
For first time, I has been conned to get 2 Silverstone tyre + balancing and alignment for RM500. After that only know the price is overprice.

In the Perodua book , it's say that my type specifications is 175/65R14. What is that mean? I'm totally noob here.

I am salesperson, so I do travel lot. What is the best tyre that suite my car and the price range?

Lol...this argument had been around for so long  .
No matter what size of tyres you use, you speedometer is always correct la. Its just that when you compare to the actual speed (maybe speed trap for example), yours is not accurate anymore. That is why recalibration is important
but not many people can do or do it .

Example" More than 4% upgrade, your speedometer will show about 4% different compare to stock tyres and actual world. But you car speedometer is still showing your correct car's speed(unless recalibration done after changes) as it generate the reading from gearbox or drive shaft rotation 
The changes in tyres diameter  affect the speedometer reading due to rev per miles different but no matter what, the speedometer reading generated always follow your car's speed which may not tally with real world speed.

typically people run on negative 2-3 camber or even more, toe in (or out) depends on how they prefer their handling/cornering characteristic, typically is toe in though, 0.5-1.5 degrees.

almost any shop can do, it is after the setting, if there's a person able to bring your car for some hard runs to test out the results of those settings (provided the owner is willing to let the mechanic whack their car)

not sure of my lower arm, it's f***ed up already anyways, gonna replace it once i can figure out/solve the ATF/engine oil leaking issues so they don't damage the new bushes should i replace my lower arm lol.

and the negative camber is offset by frequent aggressive cornering, so technically our cars are straight anyways
so no, i don't have uneven treads at all. besides negative 2-3 is barely even noticeable from eye view, it's those that go further than that like those hella flush people.
hell, you also never noticed yourself despite having 2-3 degrees on the camber, no?

bad caster/toe settings would unevenly wear tires even more btw

Yes! in fact you need it on daily ride. Here is my feedback after years of using it on the road...
1. Nitrogen doesn't heat up as fast as oxygen. So you've got an extra lap prior to hitting near optimum temperature to beat personal's best
2. Used to check every 2 week. Using nitrogen, unless there is a leakage or puncture, after almost 3 months, the drop is less than 10kpa. That mean if you pump 235kpa, after 6 months later, tyres pressure just meet manufacturer recommendation of around 210kpa front.
3. We actually measure the tyres weight (including single new tyre and wheel, mount and measure again) at friend's shop using those human's measuring weight    , one with 100% oxygen and another with nitrogen + oxygen as you don't get 100% nitrogen. One with nitrogen is lighter by few hundred grams... We're having a good laugh while doing it for the lulz 
Don't lol'ed at me la. Me very slow driver. Driving a dolphin with B18CR doing very late braking also cannot dip below 2:50.00 in Sepang. Maybe I need slick
and more laps on PSP .

Need opinion
Having a hard time choosing between these two

Toyo
T1 Sport 224/40/ R18 RM630
C1S 215/45/ R18 RM650

is it? this 1 hard. visit few shop they don't have, end up have to go proton service center and take few days for them to order.

Brand: GT Radial Champiro bax 2
Size: 205/55/R16

1 piece. last time punch through buy a really big steel thing. hence cannot fix and have to replace a new tyre.

ohh, preve user? ya, I also want to use alternative, cheaper and deliver performance better than this. road traction is come from tyre right?