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 Watercooling Corsair 800D Advice needed, So many options....

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TSAlamakLor
post May 1 2011, 05:15 PM, updated 15y ago

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First of all, happy long weekend to everybody rclxms.gif

Now I have a Corsair 800D. After extensive research on WC, there seem to be a heck ton of options for this case. I have many questions that I hope some of you could answer.

GPU cooling:
- I have 2 x 6970 2gb. The main card runs really hot at around 88-90C under load.
- I have decided to go with EK Acetal + Nickel block.

Question:
Is it necessary to get the backplate? Would it help to avoid (in anyway) the card from getting fried in case of minor leak from the fittings/rad? Does it help in OC performance or is the plate mainly for aesthetic purpose?

CPU cooling:
- Going with EK Acetal + Nickel block.
- Didn't want to go with full nickel as I don't want to deal with finger print, stain, corrosion, and etc on the nickel surface.

Pump:
- DDC 3.2 + XSPC Pom top

Rads:
Ok this is actually the biggest problem for me. First of all, I don't want to mod the casing. Initially I'd decided to go:
- Option 1: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x MCR120 at rear, 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 2: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x RX120 at rear, 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 3: 1 x RX480 up top (3 fans only), 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 4: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x RX120 at bottom

Questions:
- I've seen lots of builds, I think the people who opted not to put a rad at rear is mainly because the rad may block the chipset block. Am I correct about this?
- I recently saw someone use an RX480 up top, but instead of installing 4 fans and cutting a hole up top, he simply installed 3 fans on the rad. One part of the rad is not being fan cooled. I could go with this option and omit the rear radiator. Saving RM30-40. I could still use a RX120 at the bottom. Would I see any benefit going this way, vs option 2 and 4? Also, is it better to stick to 360mm rad since not many casing support 480mm rad?

Reservoir:
- I'm leaning towards Bitspower Tank Z 150
- I'm also considering IandH 175, as well as Tank Z 250, and EK advanced 150/250

Questions:
- I intend to run a T line somewhere at the bottom radiator, or at the bottom of the res to drain the liquid. I also intend to place the pump right below the res. Should I go with 150/250 Res? I'm leaning towards 150 because it is probably easier to work with. I think 250 may have issue with e-atx board since there's really only one place where I can put the 250 res.
- I'm also leaning towards bitspower res as I've been reading that EK res has a higher tendency to leak. Some pictures also suggest that the build quality isn't as good. I hardly see complaints about tank Z leaking.

Tubing:
- Don't know what to go with. I'm thinking black tube as they don't haze and I don't have to deal with maintenance biggrin.gif Alternatively I could go clear tube and black/red dye. If I go with black tube, I can mix a small amount of clear tube at certain areas to show the red liquid.

Fittings:
- All bitspower matte black compression fittings

There you have it, I'm picking up most of these stuff this coming week. My biggest concern is the radiators. I don't know what configuration to go with.
cstkl1
post May 1 2011, 07:11 PM

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more importantly what mobo and what ram dude

btw tj07 new price is RM999 for window and 940 for windowless
and 800D full metal with front aluminium cost rm1050

for backplate on ati does not hinder performance
but hmm so far the 6990 seems to out clock a 6970
owikh84
post May 1 2011, 10:58 PM

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From: Butterworth, PG / Machang, Kelantan



QUOTE
GPU cooling:
Is it necessary to get the backplate? Would it help to avoid (in anyway) the card from getting fried in case of minor leak from the fittings/rad? Does it help in OC performance or is the plate mainly for aesthetic purpose?

Backplate is not neccesary it's more on aesthetic purpose according to eddie.
Leak test before powering up the whole system will prevent such leakage but ofcoz backplate will save its life just in case.

QUOTE
CPU cooling:
- Going with EK Acetal + Nickel block.
- Didn't want to go with full nickel as I don't want to deal with finger print, stain, corrosion, and etc on the nickel surface.

Corrosion will occur only when two different metals having low gap of electronegativity in contact with each other. All wb regardlesd of any material should perform equally just that the looks make em different. plexi-nickel to show off colored coolant

QUOTE
Rads:
- Option 1: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x MCR120 at rear, 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 2: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x RX120 at rear, 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 3: 1 x RX480 up top (3 fans only), 1 x RX120 at bottom
- Option 4: 1 x RX360 up top, 1 x RX120 at bottom

Questions:
- I've seen lots of builds, I think the people who opted not to put a rad at rear is mainly because the rad may block the chipset block. Am I correct about this?
- I recently saw someone use an RX480 up top, but instead of installing 4 fans and cutting a hole up top, he simply installed 3 fans on the rad. One part of the rad is not being fan cooled. I could go with this option and omit the rear radiator. Saving RM30-40. I could still use a RX120 at the bottom. Would I see any benefit going this way, vs option 2 and 4? Also, is it better to stick to 360mm rad since not many casing support 480mm rad?

Nowadays seems like many ppl tends to go for as many rads as possible in a case, as long as ur case is able to accommadate the multi rad u're good to go. Ur pump is still able to handle the restrictions caused by rad fittings. if me, i will not sacrifice that ODD bay.

Reservoir:
- I'm leaning towards Bitspower Tank Z 150
QUOTE
- I'm also considering IandH 175, as well as Tank Z 250, and EK advanced 150/250

Questions:
- I intend to run a T line somewhere at the bottom radiator, or at the bottom of the res to drain the liquid. I also intend to place the pump right below the res. Should I go with 150/250 Res? I'm leaning towards 150 because it is probably easier to work with. I think 250 may have issue with e-atx board since there's really only one place where I can put the 250 res.
- I'm also leaning towards bitspower res as I've been reading that EK res has a higher tendency to leak. Some pictures also suggest that the build quality isn't as good. I hardly see complaints about tank Z leaking.

ur huge case should provide enuf clearance for res 250 and DDC+top even with a quad rad on top.
I think EK res leakage issue is isolated with thicker o-ring applied. Somehow never encountered this prob on me maybe im using correct and tighten fitttings etc.
Bitspower res + DDC will produce turbulence inside res due to low flow restriction design on res. This can be fixed by swapping the silver tube provided from bottom to res top or fill the res as full as possible. Bitspower will leave a brownish stain on its wall some few months somehow im not sure where did it come from. One feature i like bitspower res is they provide a tinted res tube which is good for preventing algae growth.

QUOTE
Tubing:
- Don't know what to go with. I'm thinking black tube as they don't haze and I don't have to deal with maintenance biggrin.gif Alternatively I could go clear tube and black/red dye. If I go with black tube, I can mix a small amount of clear tube at certain areas to show the red liquid.

Tygon and thermocill are great. My uv black Feser will leave a blue stain on the res.
TSAlamakLor
post May 2 2011, 02:14 AM

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Yeah the case will fit the 250 right on top of the pump. My one concern with this is that in case I upgrade to an extended motherboard, I may not be able to relocate the 250 since there is only one area where the 250 could be placed on. The 150 in such situation could be moved to the ODD bays.

I believe EK res with dual tube also creates turbulence? A cyclon is pretty much needed to curb the problem isn't it?

Does the tinted Tank stain too?

Again, my concern is whether it makes sense to place a 480mm rad on top and only install 3 fans on it. It would appear that not many casing could accommodate a 480mm rad and therefore the rad may have lower resale value. I'm not sure if that extra surface that's not cooled by a fan would help lower the temperature in any way. If it was, say, 1C lower temp, I would not go with the 480.

Another thing that I'd like to have confirmation is whether I should avoid placing a 120mm rad at the rear (inside of the casing). I'm very curious as to why not many owners place a 120mm rad at the rear of the casing. I've seen at least 1-2 pictures of mobo with chipset block inlet sticking out of that direction. I'm just wondering if the rad obstructs most chipset block and hence not many people place a rad in the rear.

I was told nobody brings in black tygon/themochill. Do you have any source for those tubings? Thanks a bunch!

EDIT: Looks like I could fit a 140mm rad at the bottom biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by AlamakLor: May 2 2011, 03:21 AM
eNOOBz
post May 2 2011, 01:48 PM

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If want a 2 x 140mm rad, just PM me bro.. hehe.

Looks like a major upgrade there.
TSAlamakLor
post May 2 2011, 01:53 PM

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Yeah I've seen your thread. No room to mount 2 x 140mm biggrin.gif Also I'm sticking to 8-9fpi.

Two options for me:
120mm at the bottom (push pull)
user posted image

140mm at the bottom
user posted image

 

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