i'm using d700+16-35mm for ages... no problemo.. feel just nize 

I put everything except my speedlights. Big is better.

I don't think he's that close in... 50mm on crop sensor is roughly the same as 85mm on FF.

Well, his shot lseems little more closer, and if he focus and recompose, it will affect his focus plane. Finally, he might also have moved a little probably before pressing the shutter.

anyway, lol, we're like playing detective or troubleshooting, haha.  just my guess lah, there can be many possibilities, only the person knows best.

But when obtaining similar field of view, 50mm on DX versus 85mm on FF.

Let's say 85mm stands 1 meter away from focus point, the 50mm would be roughly 1 meter away too right? The dof for 85m would be more shallow isn't it due to focal length.

Understood, but I was comparing when both lens are still within focus distance. If beyond MFD no point comparing since can't even get a lock on the focus already.

I think to help identify the problem of the picture, it doesnm't really matter if his picture have more shallow DOF than yours or vice versa. The key point here is, there is shallow DOF. For the picture that I see, I would say the DOF is shallow since its considered close up, and we're also nolt sure if he uses focus recompose technique, if yes, this further cause the problem.
Even if he did not focus and recompose, it can be he focus and lock and during framing and waiting for the moment, he move or the subject moved shifting the focus plane.
As I said, there can be many reasons, only the person knows best. From the picture, what I can say is there is shallow DOF since its close up, the rest, it depends on the technique and how the shot was taken.

I think the subject moving around, shifting the focus plane may sound reasonable, especially when you are indirectly shooting her, and she will just move her face to other photogs on and off.

That's why proper communication is important. Sometimes, I will confirm my focus lock few times when the model looked at me. Tit tit tit few times if I got the time luxury, this will sometimes guarantee really tack sharp focus, even on my kitlens.

PC Fair I would care less. OOF shots will go straight to the recycle bin.

But for outdoor portrait shooting where I can talk to my models, and if I want to achieve certain shots, I would tell her, "OK, look at me, I focus on your eyes... but don't move". If she moves, then I have to educate/coach her not to move much. So sometimes, it requires a few takes before I got that perfect shot with perfect focus especially if it's a complicated pose which involves movement and dynamics. It worth the effort.

some pic before i sleep. pls comment. i newbie.



no edit/ just resize and add frame

really kopitiam post

So what's a 'Katak Beku'? 

So you're not seeing that instead of the photo... cause on my side I'm able to see the photo that's why was wondering what's the Katak Beku referring to  Thanks for the clarification.

Thought you mentioned her expression like katak beku

I was actually looking for a real frozen frog in the picture of the girl.   

I wonder why some of the imageshack I can see, some cant?
the scotty wan i can, viking wan i cant

Viking posted the frozen frog isn't it o_O

nah 50mm f/1.8

Actually that photo of Elise taken at 1.0 more interesting =D

ehem ehem..voyager..
make it fast..so that mr Eddy can lego his voyager..

let say body+grip + 24-70 attached, with the BR RS7, is it comfortable? just worried my gear hanging on my side upside down..and quite risky i think..is it so?

RS4 is around Rm208, i guess shashinki.com is selling at one of the lowest price, RS7 is around RM228.. The only reason i didnt get the RS7 was the stupid buckle at the back of the strap which can dismount the strap  , want to steal your camera also easy, just unbuckle it from the back and there it goes 

Yeah, same goes with me. Will see other photos or perhaps more reviews to come. My budget at the moment only allow me to go for this lens

Should or shouldn't I consider the Sigmalux? However, 35mm seems to be better option for an all-rounder prime lens.

K I’ve learnt to use the manual mode, and adjust the bar to “0” to get picture with correct exposure.

But when the place get too dark, e.g. sometimes in house, or at night, I can’t follow the bar right?

So how do I gauge whether my picture with correct exposure or not?