I want to ask about Dynaudio Mk2ii 6 1/2" - 7" 4Ω - 100watt [peak 200watt] will give more bass compare with other component set ?
Because i really want to remove my 6x9" Boston acoustic s953, this component set really cutting off my SQ - sub sound badly. Not very good for sq, how to solve this setup?

This post has been edited by Kar Leong: Apr 4 2010, 03:12 PM

Well i have to do this , recently i upgrade my ICE Setup example in my signature, within 2 week i almost spend more than 15k setup above; I would like to share my experience with you all;
First 1st lastweek i use Debezt monoblock 1000w bridge to 1Ω to kick 2 x Rockford Fosgate T112D4 DVC 4Ω Dual (which each sub need 600w-1200w peak) both sub woffer need 1200w
So i add another monoblock same brand Debezt, 2 monoblock kick 2 sub parellel-wiring but guess what ? The monoblock over heat / lighting protection come out and in / sometime have woofer sound sometime cut off
Yes if your monoblock underpower will coz overheat n auto cut-off; to solve this change better monoblock [more power needed in watt]
at last the monoblock still under warranty, so change to Shuttle LAB 1700W class D monoblock [Prokick sister?] and really can kick 2 sub-woofer with series-parallel wiring at 1Ω [really awesome]

Car Battery:- N70Z/L AH75 12v [upgrading done]
Car Alternator:- Stock Toyota Corolla SEG
Battery 12v >> in-line fuse (front bonet) >> Prokick 2.0cap (rear bonet beside monoblock) >> Shuttle Lab monoblock (rear bonet) +ve from capicitor >> 2sub
ALL Cable 4AWG, Grounding Cable same as 4AWG (less than 1feet) to vehicle body chasis, sub 8AWG cable
Recent add:- 5 Point Grounding 4AWG Cable to Alternator 1point, Engine chasis 2point, CarBody 2point (adding because due to the vehicle engine spark / idle / electricity no enough stable)

Testing 1 Week already;
SQ Slow music which bass sound come slow 1 by 1 okie no problem at all;
SPL Bass like continuously coming in second, headlight dimming problem; everything light dimming; monoblock totally suck all the battery watt;
Today just add another Prokick 2.0digital farad on the shuttle lab monoblock, its only help a bit [lesser dimming problem]
Future need to change bigger alternator / dynamo ? or got another way to solve this ?

Soon upgrade PXA-H100, Alpine minimum RMS per channel 100w 4Ω x 4 channel, throw away my 6x9" useless boston acoustic (tweeter quite harsh sound) haha...
Btw add Raizin Volt Stabilizer will its help or not ? Coz today testing on my car, like nothing special happen de (what use of this item?)

normal la, when i into something sure crazy ^^ but then slowly get bored lolz
Last year until now i play wan mei known as Perfect World MY-EN my total Cumulative RewardPoint 52,150 (mean i already use 52,150 MYR within 2 years) 1cubi - 1reward point - 1 MYR

means i can buy 1 MyVi already !!!

This post has been edited by Kar Leong: Apr 8 2010, 03:05 AM

My daddy not rich as well, i come out with very poor family, living in born at KL stay taman midah cheras, then move Shah alam for 10 years, parent got 5 brother and sister include myself.

Through hard working, mom selling wan tan mee, economy rice etc so on. Helping mom since young, and work part-timer also to earn some pocket money. While my dad seem good on mechinical industry being doing well so far so good. All my family being study hard ofc dont want waste parent money.

Slowly by slowly from poor to medium well family la, the move to klang, selangor coz father medium industry in klang, kampung jawa. Then i continue going college as well and now working outside (not with my daddy lolz)

15k all is my hard working money lolz, i do my own business as well every month income likely 5k per month and i'm married already la as my avatar is my 1 years old son =.=

As businessmen, haha u can come visit me =.= kind of kinky stuff muwawawawa........ got 7 branch my sister, mom, me and some other partnership shop.

Why not lolz installation labour cost more than 2k ++ and my setup using all monster cable@ 300 series ® Audio Interconnect (2-Channel x 3 pcs direct to HU)
to monoblock 6meter long x 1pcs, to front seat 2 amplifier 2m x 2 pcs and very good ICE cable Xtra Low Noise construction provides advanced noise rejection up to 60dB so all you hear is the sound of entertainment. Costly about 1.5k only RCA cable.

Couldn't be bother lolz, iayah me seldom go outside gathering with friends, somemore married life its not easy to meet up more ICE friends, i do go other ICE shop to survey price n so on.
Luckily got this forum, icehifi, zerotohundred help me out, if not i could spend more than 20k now.

Btw if i rich enough, why i still using toyota corolla seg 1.6 [modify to 1.6 Twincam silvertop 20v] this car no need to installment, just pump petrol, every 5,000 mileage service 1 time, no problem for sparepart and so on. It is really nice sedan car during 199x till 2003 year.

This post has been edited by Kar Leong: Apr 8 2010, 12:14 PM

throw into my home store la ... perhap throw into my mother toyota corrola year 2003 crystal light version. Or my daddy merz E280 muwawawawawawa

NO COMMENT Muawawawa.......

When ur each component wrote 125watt 4Ω, you need at least 125watt RMS [nonimal watt power from amplifier] to get better performance.

Its not both 125watt RMS, its each 6.5" speaker n tweeter.

All you need, is MRP-F550 Alpine suitable for ur comp set n your SW
500 watts, 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 ohms: 90 watts x 4 channels
2 ohms: 125 watts x 4 channels
Bridged, 4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 channels
Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 50 kHz
Subsonic Filter: 15 Hz
Crossover Frequency: 50 - 400 Hz
MOSFET power supply
STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
Gold-plated screw terminals
Speaker and preamp-level inputs
Preamp outputs
fuse rating: 30A x 2

As your SW nominal 150watt peak i think can go until 300watt so its suitable for you to bridge it AB Class Amplifier.

Or you can use better one PDX 4.150 keke... can even add 1 more 150watt SW at your rear
4-Channel Power Density Digital Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 ohms bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Class D amplifier design
Stackable installation design with front-panel controls
Quick-connect speaker connectors
HP/LP Crossover: 30 Hz - 400 Hz, 12dB/oct.
CEA-2006 Compliant
MOSFET power supply
Stackable installation design with front-panel controls
Continuously adjustable gain control
Top mounted blue LED power/status indicator
4-Layer glass epoxy PC board

150 watts x 2 channel go for the front component left n right then 150 watts x 2 channel pump your SW 2 pcs haha nice or not ?
Just help you find another good amp ^^

This post has been edited by Kar Leong: Apr 15 2010, 06:41 PM

MA AUDIO MA-60.4iX 4 Channel Amplifier
Max power : 1800w PMPO

My opinion, this amp underpowered rate

Note:- Some amplifier does not show the nominal RMS per channel, some even fake information. Personally i think the ma audio is 60.4 mean 60watt RMS nominal, its only show 110watt peak per channel
Conclusion end-up like this, front component speaker 125 watts, like that either ur MA Audio starting not enough power, amp heat-up then circuit will cut the power (protection light come out always) OR when underpowered amp run out of steam, not enough power supply to output tube [mean ur comp set] when those devices reach their maximum output voltage, the signal gets clipped.

The waveform of the output then contains a huge amount of DC voltage, sometimes at very high voltage levels relative to the levels seen when the signal is behaving itself as AC.
This DC voltage (and the other trash thrown out by the clipping devices) is what does the damage. The voice coil of a speaker is actually a motor. When it sees DC current, the motion of the voice coil stops, or "stalls". When this happens, instead of acting as an inductor, the voice coil basically becomes a piece of wire, and the amplifier sees that piece of wire as a dead short. This causes a spiral of death. The short demands more current from the amp, which it can't deliver, and it clips even harder.

Meanwhile the voicecoil is heating up from the increased current, and the lack of any cooling fanning motion, and poof - puff of smoke, and no more voice coil. Even a microscopic burn can sometimes kill a voice coil.
This is why, when used and applied properly, it is always better to have more amplifier than needed. Clipping is much more destructive than a small amount of overpowering.

One last note - loud is not always better, but the only way to get really loud is to have a larger driver, larger box or more boxes. A bookshelf teensy driver and billion watt amp is never going to push the air mass that a big box and an appropriate amp will move.

I had broke my Cermin Vega 12" 1 pair in twin console box before ^^ because the amp underpowered.