Isn't this concept work like having a fully conceal SS tank, with outflow pipe on the bottom, and incoming on the top (side), and top with a air release nut. Fill up the tank with the air release nut open. After all fill up, close the nut and the pressure will be constant like incoming. The only problem will be water cut, and you wont have water flowing down because is no pressure difference.

Understand your point.

The problem still come from the syabas pressure. The high /low from syabas unable for you to maintain the water in the tank and the pressure. Trusting syabas for pressure and water supply without buffer is risky.

Not sure your household pattern usage. If let said morning pressure is low or equal tank, the tank might not have water. Till the night when pressure is higher than the tank.

How hygienic the water you want? Is this for bathroom or include the kitchen?

I have planning for a while already of how to
1) have buffer water for at least 4day
2) stable pressure 24hr for whole house tap.
3) clean hygienic water for whole house.
4) Consume less energy.

All this without depend on syabas. Accept water. Still in my drawing board.

The regulator is a pressure adjustable. Let said 1 pump for your main bathroom. But you want the shower to be higher than the basin tap. A regulator install on your pipe to the basin tap to reduce the pressure. And the rest doesn't effect.

the concept is similar. however a fully conceal ss tank will not provide any water flow. also i am not sure if the normal s/s tank would be able withstand a pipe pressure, not that you can pressurise it to begin with. if you fill it there is no air pressing the water out. this why for such cases you use a pressurised tank. if i just close the air release i will have the stale water in the tank without it providing any buffer for pressure variation etc. its just standing somewhere.

i understand the problem. which is why i thought i'd be able to "lock-in" better pressure periods with a one way valve. our pressure here is actually very nice, we always have around 2.2 bar, occasionally 2.4 or 2.6 which is why i thought i can rely on them.

the hygenic issue comes from me thinking i dont need a tank at all. so we did only one hot and one cold water cycle. its all connected. so having dirty water for some outlets is sadly no option (should have done rainwater catchment for toilets or something).

my list is similar to yours, just two days reserve would be ok (need to have sufficient water exchange there). if you want to combine all points, a pressure tank seems right. i will just have to think about it some more how it works when i draw water. will call grundfos to ask.

The incoming will force the water to go out when someone open the water tap, and when the inlet are off, the pressure will be stable no water out.

yes there might be water mixing if the inlet & outlet are at different heights. but if you close the air valve, you basically create a mini pressure tank. assume you leave it full of air, pressure will be around what 1 bar isnt it? then incoming water presses into the tank at say 2 bar, compressing the air until equilibirum (2 bar), so i you have pressured water in the tank (with the air as contamination source but nevermind). so you essentially have a created a DIY pressure tank minus the membrane seperating air and water and minus the ability to preset a minimum pressure. if you have a one way valve at the entry this could be an option. a 500 l s/s tank could (if sealed properly - which i doubt is possible) then store approx. 250l with 2 bar pressure.

i would assume that a s/s tank can withstand those smaller pressure settings of course i dont know for sure.

thanks for all the input you guys. i knew it's a good idea to ask here

Can anyone share some contacts to buy grundfos? Besides Zheilwane pls.

tq.

JF Home Appliances USJ

tq

You are welcome, we hope will have a chance to serve you well.

Hi, wondering anyone can help me make sense as to what is happening with my pump.

I have been using Grundfos Auto Pump CM3-5PC for over a year. But it started to act up last month. It won't shut off. I called the plumber who installed the pump to check for leaks and could not find any. Reset the pump, all back to normal until last week. Acted up again. Won't shut off. Husband reset, went back to normal. This week, it just won't shut off. Sometimes it works when I turn on and off the garden hose or kitchen tap. It would stop. But once it starts again, it won't stop. Sometimes, no matter what I do, it won't switch off.

FYI. I have a tank build outside for the pump, so it draws water from the tank. The tank takes from the main. There is a bypass which we can turn on, when the tank acted up. The water is pumped to the taps in the house, including up to the second floor where the pressure was weak before this. There are 2 tank upstairs that feed water to the bathroom. Bathrooms use normal heater pumps. So Grundfos only pumps water to the tanks upstairs.

I have called Grundfos to come and have a look. My feeling is that the sensor has malfunctioned. But I'm no expert. Am going thru water rationing at the mo, so I switch off the pump when water in the tank is low on the no-water days. Is the rationing affecting the pump? Or is this more of a plumbing problem? Grundfos is taking their time to send their tech guy, so wondering if it's worth calling a plumber whilst waiting.

Thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by puss.in.heels: Apr 2 2014, 01:30 PM

Anyone knows where can I buy Panasonic water pump in Klang Valley ?

I am looking for the anti vibration pad for pump. Anyone know where I can buy?

@puss.in.heels

If you're sure that it's not a leak or something along those lines, then it's most probably a sensor failure. You can test this out by shutting the main water outlet after the pump to rule out any leaks etc.

In my case, the problem I had was with the flush at my toilets. When the pump was switched on, the pressure was high enough that the valves inside the flush couldn't hold back the water when the flush tank was full. As a result, the flush would overflow and the pump would stay turned on continuously pumping water.

This post has been edited by DeniseLau: Apr 20 2014, 07:41 AM

hi. if all my showers got water directly from the tank, but the water pressure is really slow, what could be the problem? my friend said water pump only sucks in water to the tank, but in wont push water to the showers. is this true? i'm looking for a reliable pump that could help me resolve my problem. can you suggest a good but not overpriced water pump (that would resolve my problem)? my house is double storey with 3 bathrooms (2 upstairs, 1 downstairs). TQ

water pump use to pump water from tank and supply to ur water shower.

The usual water pumps are for pushing water out from your tangki to all your taps & showers..

For pulling water into the tangki is another story...btw..you are not supposed to pull water from your main supply directly...its illegal

For 3 bathroom..you can go for 0.5HP pump..
PM me if you need it...

This post has been edited by a.n.d.y: May 6 2014, 06:54 PM

May I know if CM3-4PM enough for my 4 bathrooms house?

Btw, where can I buy the anti vibration pad?

TQ

Hi guys... this might not be 100 % related to this topic, but I would like to ask here since it was related to water pressure

I am planning to install a waterpump for my new house, but came across this "valve" in Mudah



http://www.mudah.my/Tambahkan+Tekanan+bagi...h+-23925360.htm


How true is this ?? it claim that you do not need to install any pump. just use this valve and the water pressure will increase.

Thank You