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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V8, D5100 announced !
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vearn27
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Apr 7 2011, 02:52 PM
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QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Apr 7 2011, 10:38 AM) guys ... any idea where i can get a brand new SB-900 in KL & whats the cheapest price ??? checked in garage sale mostly selling at RM1599 ... wondering if can get it @ RM1500 or not ... QUOTE(SSY22 @ Apr 7 2011, 12:29 PM) LOL, kai name it as PINKON ! Geng than FX , D3X bye bye ! Try to find at Foto Selangor, im not sure , if i can recall someone mentioned before , must look for UNCLE to get cheap price. I think hard to get @ RM1500 Early last month I checked for SB-900 at Foto Selangor and was offered RM1,500 (open price, haven't start bargaining). Wonder what's the price now
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vearn27
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Apr 7 2011, 08:00 PM
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Anyone has already seen this? D7000 disassemble video  » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
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vearn27
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Apr 7 2011, 09:28 PM
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Am thinking to start an Excel sheet to act as database to store all Nikon (including 3rd party) lens to includes comment and experience from users like recommendation from which f value onwards will be sharp, any issue such as CA and etc. Should I start and then each of you input to made it up so I can compile?
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vearn27
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Apr 7 2011, 11:00 PM
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QUOTE(Bliz @ Apr 7 2011, 10:01 PM) That would be great  , won't mind to input for those lenses that I have used before  Okays. But on other thought, rather than HTML. I think I'm gonna code a very plain and simple database for that. Will ask for input when it's ready  Added on April 7, 2011, 11:06 pmAnother 7.4 magnitude hit Japan and tsunami warning raised This post has been edited by vearn27: Apr 7 2011, 11:06 PM
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vearn27
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Apr 8 2011, 12:20 AM
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QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Apr 8 2011, 12:08 AM) another earthquake hits Japan again ... hopefully everyone there is alright this time ... The agency just lifted the tsunami warnings and no tsunami warning in effect now. Phews~~~
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vearn27
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Apr 12 2011, 08:34 PM
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QUOTE(geekster129 @ Apr 12 2011, 05:52 PM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « You have to think this way when you're doing flash, there will be 2 light sources: Available (ambient) light and Flash.
Ambient light is the lights at your surrounding, e.g. let's say you go to a ballroom and the tungsten lights or from the chandelier will be your ambient light. SS and Aperture will affect how much ambient light you can get.
Now for flash it's a bit different. Remember, flash fires very quickly, so shutter speed will not affect much of the flash output due to the fact that the light just flash for a few miliseconds, so there's merely no time for your camera sensor to pick up additional light.
Now why we always get digicam effect (Subject look very bright, but the whole surrounding look like a cave)? This is because the camera, usually at Auto setting will attempt to meter your subject accordingly and at the same time try to make sure there's no camera motion blur due to low SS. So, the camera will think that flash is sufficient enough to lit the subject and hence increase the shutter speed to prevent motion blur. But this will literally kill of the ambient light (slower SS -> more ambient light, faster SS -> lesser ambient light). This explains the cave-like look.
Now to have the foreground and background to lit evenly, we use a technique called dragging the shutter, in which we slow down the SS in Manual mode, i think usually, and what happen is now, the subject is now as lit up as the background. But once again, the caveat of this technique is 1: Low SS will always get you into the risk of camera motion blur, 2: In a typical ballroom or restaurant, if the ambient light is yellow and your flash is white(usually blue), you will have 2 color tones in your photo which usually look undesirable, that is where you have to start playing and adjusting your white balance. Some people uses color gel on the flash. to solve the WB issue. How much ambient light you want to let in to your camera depends on your creativity requirements. Generally speaking, there's no right or wrong.  QUOTE(celciuz @ Apr 12 2011, 05:56 PM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Your 'cave-like look' is due to when you turn on flash, it syncs to 1/60s slowest on aperture mode. This is usually the default for both digicam and also DSLR unless tweaked. So basically, 1/60s, ISO200 in indoor / ballroom etc. What can you actually expose?  Just at the time that this topic brought up. I know that 'fill flash' is typically used to lit the subject if the background is very bright. How do I utilize the flash-sync to make sure both the subject and the environment properly exposed? Including firing flash at night due to low aperture lens to lit up the subject to achieve higher SS? The subject will be exposed, however the environment look dark. How to lit both the subject and environment with flash and low aperture lens?
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vearn27
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Apr 12 2011, 09:05 PM
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QUOTE(celciuz @ Apr 12 2011, 08:36 PM) To gain more ambient light from using flash, increase ISO, use bigger aperture, use slower shutter. Then the likelihood of getting blur is high due to slower SS to lit up the environment. What the usage and how to utilize the "flash-sync" setting?
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vearn27
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Apr 12 2011, 10:02 PM
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QUOTE(geekster129 @ Apr 12 2011, 09:23 PM) Are you talking about the high speed sync? There's a flash-sync setting which I'm not quite sure how to use it. Did I called the setting correctly?
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vearn27
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Apr 13 2011, 12:12 PM
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QUOTE(Tony Stark @ Apr 13 2011, 11:17 AM) really?  thinking of buying one D7000 for my video/still photo small camera. but duno should buy onot  cuz nid to fund for something big  u wan ah? im coming home this may..but not for long la..1 week oni..if anyone wants, pm me before i come back and provide me with money as well, when im home, i'll just post it to u guys or come see me at subang jaya  i'll be back on the 25th of may~2nd june oni and the sling costs £20 for the color like mine and £35 for other colors  C'mon Tony, let kick start the bulk
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vearn27
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Apr 14 2011, 10:08 AM
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QUOTE(Kiki-Lala @ Apr 13 2011, 09:57 PM) New Nikon 50mm f1.8G? The filter size is larger than the old one as well. QUOTE(kimurastanley @ Apr 13 2011, 11:39 PM) Hmm... the page is taken down now, even DPreview crossed out their link
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vearn27
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Apr 14 2011, 10:19 AM
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QUOTE(david9 @ Apr 14 2011, 10:08 AM) think till when ? I need it for purpose , m going to travel again and need extra lenses/better lenses to shoot . I just need suggestion . Have you try out 35mm yet? Which do you prefer for portrait shot, full or half-body? We can't actually give you suggestion based on our preferences, you should go with what you're hunting for your frame.
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vearn27
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Apr 17 2011, 01:02 AM
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QUOTE(SSY22 @ Apr 17 2011, 12:39 AM) Any shops can recommend me in KL? beside J-one. pudu plaza , yl ...dont know go Foto Selangor at Pertama Complex next to Sogo? If via KTM, drop at Bank Negara station and walk across the bridge to the opposite side
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vearn27
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Apr 17 2011, 09:14 PM
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Hmm... nothing from Nikon about the 50mm f/1.8G yet? Wonder if it's real and when they're gonna announcing it.
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vearn27
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Apr 18 2011, 12:05 AM
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QUOTE(elainor @ Apr 17 2011, 11:50 PM) So far no vignetting issues when i pair up my d7k with the 70-200mm. Im not sure bout other fx lenses. Basically, the 1.5x crop factor is with DX. Therefore if you match: DX body + DX lens = 1.5x crop factor (it WON'T double up like 2 times 1.5x!) DX body + FX lens = 1.5x crop factor FX body + DX lens = 1.5x crop factor (vignetting issue) FX body + FX lens = no crop factor
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