uzairi,

how did u screwed ur mobo ??

Current setup of my WC rig...






If ur wandering y the tubing to the radiator is long its because i wanna place it at the casing fan outlet later on, like this :



Things i will and want to do to improve the temp of the WC now:

1. shorten the tubing (but if i shorten it i can't place it at the casing fan outlet )
2. use a better cfm fan
3. try distill water or maybe battery water, for comparison...

Also to be noted the bleeding is done (no more bubbles+no more splashing sound+shacking the radiator to check for air bubbles), and the temp decrease by 1C now...meaning at OC loading at 325fsb at 1.408v the loading is around 43-45C average at 44C,compared to last time it was at at average of 45C.

This post has been edited by DaBaD: Apr 26 2006, 08:32 AM

@dabad : fan pun tak cukup rempit tu.....kasik pm sama itu alngap angkat 38mm punya

@dabad

yeah man...i think a powerful fan will help. that radiator looks really fat
oh btw, it might help if you put a fan close to the pump to cool it down. it will reduce the heat dump into your loop by the pump .

This post has been edited by Shah81: Apr 26 2006, 05:01 PM

U mean, it wud be good to have a fan cooling down the pump ??

what about the pump we put near the intake fan of the system....

Wud it be ok, ?

hi there, currently got the nirox p2800 from metalzone, i got a thermaltake m3 water tank, can it be used like reservoir??? i mean using the water tank to refill the system... or i do need another reservoir??? sry i am noob in water cooling...

this is a quote from almostthere tips & trick thread:

i guess that would be ok as long you got some ventilation going on.
hope this helps

This post has been edited by Shah81: Apr 26 2006, 08:41 PM

Yeah U can use the water tank as a reservoir , but u need to fit ur pumps with 1/4 fittings too.. Water Tank = Reservoir.


or get a converter.... like the one thermaltake sells...if u are planning to use some other tube sizes.



This post has been edited by zahri: Apr 26 2006, 09:57 PM

I chipped the transistor.

DaBaD...

Yeah the rad's a kinda airflow restrictive. I measured it at 17.5 FPI (Fins per Inch)... which is essentially the same as the BIX, both of which has a core thickness of 40mm. Therefore, based on that assumption, I believe it has very similar characteristics to the BIX.

Therefore, that push pull config definately has to stay. What fans are those?

Ouch... thats tough news. Found a new mobo?

aiya, those fan cant do the job well, pressure not big enough
CFM is not the important thing here, pressure more important

Found. Hoping to get it soon.

bro, what kind of mobo u use...maybe the transistor can be replace

Hopefully. But that thing is the square ones. Not the rounded ones(capasitor). I might change the transistor later.

Don't use push pull, a waste of time. Done my experiments already. A good cfm/pressure fan will sort that out. Best choice is those Japan Panaflo H series or kalau tak mampu sangat, NMB's or Delta's

uh push pull really no use? H1A damn loud weh. Two slightly lower CFM/Pressure fans wont do justice?
Ps... pm me ur test results, wanna check it out.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 27 2006, 12:54 AM

No as it only allows at best a more constant average temp, not lowering of temps. I've tested with 2 delta triblades and that's how I came to taht conclusion. Wanna minimise noise? Go for a pull setup. Sorts it out

This post has been edited by almostthere: Apr 27 2006, 01:08 AM

Hmm... you tested with a BIP right? The BIP being a low airflow resistance rad probably doesnt benefit much from a push-pull setup. I think it would do more justice for a HE or BIX perhaps?

Nope, same principle itself. You're just ensuring that the airflow is equivalent before and after it passes thru the rad. So overtime as dust accumulates in between the fins, the temps do no deteriorate. 2 fans != improved temps.

The fans that i use are Delta fans each have 80+ CFM...I just checked the coding on the fans and they are indeed 80+ CFM fans.

Also i tried using 2 fans, 1 fan that pulls, and 1 fan push...
All gave the same result...but using a 1 fan push gave slightly stable results e.g. at OC settings the temps fluctuate from 44-45C rather then other fan configs that fluctuate from 44-46C. But all in all they have the average same temp results.

Now using battery water...bleeding haven't finish yet, the temps are slightly better maybe 0.5C drop like that but no confirmation yet as the bleeding is not finish...

Next will try and shorten the tubings...after done testing with battery water...