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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 23 2010, 06:05 PM

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Cooler means vat? Lower boiling point?

I believe the automotive coolants hv rust proofing agent as most of the coolants for pc watercooling but are they having the same specific heat capacity?
kaka_89
post Jun 23 2010, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(J1@l_ l_l l\l @ Jun 23 2010, 06:05 PM)
Cooler means vat? Lower boiling point?

I believe the automotive coolants hv rust proofing agent as most of the coolants for pc watercooling but are they having the same specific heat capacity?
*
cooler means cooler than pc watercoolant la bro.. sweat.gif

but, ya, if the car water coolant can lower the heat of a car engine, can you imagine how cool it going to be if it in pc system..? hmm.gif
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 23 2010, 07:29 PM

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hmm.gif interesting.

Has any1 tried tht?

Vat if using Feser One in automotive cooling system? Overheat?
shajack
post Jun 23 2010, 08:55 PM

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is it still depend on ambient/room temp?

monsh
post Jun 23 2010, 11:21 PM

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well, quite hard to xplain static pressure actually .

simply put, its like saying

1CM distance from fan u get 2meter cubic of air per hour <-- good static pressure
1CM distance from fan u get 1meter cubic of air per hour <-- bad static pressure

its something like this laa .
means the fan has good capability of pushing the air further because the fins on the rad is quite restrictive for the air .
so we need a fan that is capable to push good amount of air through it .

about the car water coolant, if its true it contains anti corrosion liquid, means it has more restriction, hence not so good for PC watercooling because it'll make the loop more restrictive and u get less GPM for flow which means less heat dissipation rate .

its my 2 cent .

oh and i've read reviews out there, distilled water is still the best choice because no algae, almost zero restriction .
corrosion will probably happen if u mix materials in d loop .
like alu + brass + copper n such .

nowadays, all copper items so i think not a problem, distilled water still d best ^^,
owikh84
post Jun 23 2010, 11:47 PM

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QUOTE(monsh @ Jun 23 2010, 11:21 PM)
well, quite hard to xplain static pressure actually .

simply put, its like saying

1CM distance from fan u get 2meter cubic of air per hour <-- good static pressure
1CM distance from fan u get 1meter cubic of air per hour <-- bad static pressure

its something like this laa .
means the fan has good capability of pushing the air further because the fins on the rad is quite restrictive for the air .
so we need a fan that is capable to push good amount of air through it .

about the car water coolant, if its true it contains anti corrosion liquid, means it has more restriction, hence not so good for PC watercooling because it'll make the loop more restrictive and u get less GPM for flow which means less heat dissipation rate .

its my 2 cent .

oh and i've read reviews out there, distilled water is still the best choice because no algae, almost zero restriction .
corrosion will probably happen if u mix materials in d loop .
like alu + brass + copper n such .

nowadays, all copper items so i think not a problem, distilled water still d best ^^,
*
Corrosion will still happen no matter what coolant u use.
The anti corrosion can just slow down the electrolysis process. I find the additive is almost useless as corrosion is still there.
Algae exist due to exposed to direct/indirect sunlight. Biocide can minimize algae growth.
use black or opaque tubing & amber reservoir
monsh
post Jun 23 2010, 11:49 PM

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woot that would xplain it .
haha but yeah i myself oso never use any sort of additive .
and some additive even become some sort of solid thingy after using it for awhile .
would block the flow of the system though .
really scary thing especially on radiator >.<"
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 24 2010, 01:50 AM

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So if I'm to use copper waterblock with nickel-plated EK R3E mobo waterblock, since these two r 2 different metal thus fasten the corrosion process.

Any suggestion for me? Or is there non nickel-plated one?
monsh
post Jun 24 2010, 02:08 AM

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that im not sure .
must ask others though ^^,
owikh84
post Jun 24 2010, 06:32 AM

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QUOTE(J1@l_ l_l l\l @ Jun 24 2010, 01:50 AM)
So if I'm to use copper waterblock with nickel-plated EK R3E mobo waterblock, since these two r 2 different metal thus fasten the corrosion process.

Any suggestion for me? Or is there non nickel-plated one?
*
user posted image
Look at this periodical table of element.
Nickel (Ni) and Copper (Cu) are placed side by side with the same electronegativity number = 1.9
The oxidation (corrosion) phenomenon is minimized.
Ni+Cu combo is a good pair of elements so nothing to worry about Ni+Cu plate
I think nobody here knows, the larger the difference electronegativity Pauling (longer distance) between 2 elements, the higher possibility to get corrosion.
From here u could roughly hv an idea on how important is a distilled water which is free of harmful ions (anions & cations) eg. especially Chloride (Cl), lead (Pb), Calcium (Ca), Sodium (Na)

This post has been edited by owikh84: Jun 24 2010, 06:33 AM
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 24 2010, 08:09 AM

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Thanks owikh84, U've juz reminded me back to vat V have learnt back in those 2ndary school days.

My guess is tht it has sumthing to do to with the electrolysis process between two different molecules (or maybe I should say ions due to charged molecules r consider ions). But since distilled water is w/o any charges (molucule), I guess there wouldn't be the process said above huh. tongue.gif I simply "tembak" wan, can sum1 correct me?

Base on the attached table, I believe V should be able to use the combination of Cu and NI components with distilled water huh.

This post has been edited by J1@l_ l_l l\l: Jun 24 2010, 08:18 AM
monsh
post Jun 24 2010, 09:52 AM

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oh this is great news .
anyway, like those nikel plated waterblock, its only the outer layer is nikel right ?
d inside part is still copper ?
owikh84
post Jun 24 2010, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(monsh @ Jun 24 2010, 09:52 AM)
oh this is great news .
anyway, like those nikel plated waterblock, its only the outer layer is nikel right ?
d inside part is still copper ?
*
Yes ure right the base is still copper.
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 24 2010, 06:20 PM

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Nickel PLATED ma. Can I say NI has more resistance to corrosion? Any1?
monsh
post Jun 24 2010, 07:51 PM

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hahaha owikh already said maa .
corrosion will still happen but its d rate of corrosion that's d problem .
we need to minimize the rate .
well, looking at the table, probably its similar to copper as well .

oh btw guys, i got 1 question, is brass = copper ?
cause i tot want to get a T line or Elbow connector .
most shop i ask all say brass wan >.<"
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 24 2010, 11:16 PM

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hmm.gif I don't think their the same. Brass = Cu + Zn, alloy.
clawhammer
post Jun 25 2010, 12:09 AM

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By the time corrosion is bad enough for you to throw the block away, we are probably grandfathers or 93 years old so just remember not to mix aluminium with copper, the rest is not much of a concern.
monsh
post Jun 25 2010, 12:29 AM

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what bout brass ?
normally ppl sell those T lines and elbow connector in brass .

J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Jun 25 2010, 02:26 AM

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Base on the table given by owikh84, the electronegativity of Zn and Cu = 1.7 and 1.9 respectively. Brass is a combination of Zn n Cu, I don't really feel comfortable to use it with pure Cu or NI.

Those brass barbs U were talking about, r they meant for WC PC?
monsh
post Jun 25 2010, 09:33 AM

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haha of course not .
its meant for some sort of gardening host something like that .
anyway, its the most less restrictive elbow connector i found .
that's y considering getting them .
the plastric elbow connector mostly i found quite restrictive .


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