clearflex is good too..

but tygon is by far the best.. i saw my friend's loop that day.. it's amazing compared to the clearflex i got..

i can get the pump at RM 25 at my place.
wanna bulk it ?
the top cover is a plastic ??? i tot it was a cast Alu cover....damn.....

proc    gone,water block melted !!!!

waaahhh... Storm G5 block delrin top melted!!!! damn!

its not aluminium lar... if u use aluminium ur gonna have a BIG problem with corrosion as aluminium doesnt go well with copper.
the storm's and apogee's upper body is made out of Delrin Acetal

Kinda regretted buying that MCP650 (D4

Should have gotten a MCP650/DDC instead and fit it with this modded top.
http://tw.f3.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/c18809758

It's similiar to that systemcooling mod that makes the DDC a MCP600 beater and changes the barbs to 1/2 as well.

*Sigh*

hydrX not good? ianho, did you really see the white growth?

The problem is you have copper, a known material that easily cmes into contact with other materials chemically and for closed compact loops, corrosion can bild up easily as the temps between idle and full load remains a conducive temperature for algae growth and deanodising of the aluminium. Car's water cooling does not have copper parts internally AFAIK.

Typo lar...I did say DDC wat right.

Dood..the sarge is trying to say--> Mix metal = big boo boo

yeap. right.

btw, ianho, it doesnt matter whether the coolant has anti corrosive properties. the fact is, it only slows down the process. in a long run, if the components surface are improperly treated, alu components will still get corroded (will explain further down). on the other hand, the reserator's copper based CPU block is GOLD PLATED if i recall correctly. so that explains why it can be used.
you will never see people mix copper and aluminium without having either components plated with another suitable material like gold, silver, or nickel, or anodised.
try mixing bare aluminium and copper together with "anti-corrosive" coolant and you're bound to see some results after some time.

almostthere: yeah, saw the apogee machining. not a good sign.

10k L/h my god.....better change to Grundfos pumps that can pump 10psi of pressure

Looks like most ppl also got their storms oledi but still no proper reports yet?

oooooooo lidat... and I thought swifties do the 90o mod fer ya...
Well hellooo ladies..      

.... erk what's in the cooler master box? and t-joint or resevoir?

CM coolant ler. Kena brainwashed by ianho and the shop fella. The shop dood claims that the CM and TT coolant's good. His shop basically have a couple of display units that's been running for ages...the bigwater...gigabyte...a diy on CM coolant and the forgot-the-name kit that was using those funky copper rads a few pages back. The latter was using a greenish coolant which he claims was same as the hydrx and there's some funky stuff in the res already.

Oh...T-line seems to be in fashion now..so using that ler. Managed to find a brass T in the plumbing shop. Looks like should do although the ID could be a lil bigger.
Save space mar... my objective is not the most uber temps but quiet, better-than-air temps and tidily bling

Where did you order from?

Ya guys should try sidewinderscomputer..the stuffs sold there ain't as exotic as frozencpu or such and Gary (the dood there) is kinda busy at times but always reply his mail before the next day (unlike the others) and best of all... freakin fast.
I made my latest order and paid via paypal on Monday and it arrived in exactly a week using global express (not even Fedex).   
And you're the only dood here that uses both a res and a t-line...hahahaha..

i ordered form metalzone`s bulk...hydrx has caused some build-up on other ppls systems so i wouldnt get that..i plan to fuel my wc with a mix of battery water+automotive coolants and for a lil bling i`ll add a few drops of neon dye to make it uv reactiv

oh my...even the mcw6000 performs better than the apogee..i think swiftech is seriously screwed up in their decision making when they decide to claim that the apogee "may" peoform better than the storm..and the testing that the reviewer did was quite comprehensive so i`d say that the results are in fact conclusive of the apogee`s performance.

That loop means extra tubing length leh...

Anyway..the good news is finally I'm starting...now working on the duct but the bad news is the missus took the digicam with her overseas so there's not gonna be any pics to pimp 

Anyway..I'm referring to this and cathar's race track analogy

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

Since the temps depend on water temp and that's cooled by the rad everytime it passes through, shouldn't have temp increase no matter cpu or gpu come first right?

Unless the rad being between cpu and gpu.

WC kits in lowyat are increasing eventough its just AIR BESAR. Mostly ppl who started playing with water start with those kits since its the easiet one to find and sooner they upgrade to a better kit with more expensive price. Even me are getting addicted again to water. Hahaha..

good idea.. last time i just put plastic all over my grafik kad and around the waterblock. if there is any leaking, the water will drop on the plastic..

i've oledi done the leak test  jumping the PSU 24 pin wires with pin 3 & 4...and tested the leakage for 1 day....everything okey but when transfering those thing inside my rig...then ada leaking plak...uhuk uhuk...

should letak some towels on top of the gcard there

irenic nak angkat aper plak lepas nih eh?.... 

yalohh...it's quite a valuable experience for me...

btw..the asetek gpu water block cannot fit my x600 there...due to the mounting holes on x600 more smaller than permissible mouitng on the gpu waterblock there...

hurm...i wonder if TT Aquarius II waterblock could hop in and maximize the loop