why dont u ask MetalZone....he's doing a bulk on watercooling components. i guess the cheapest one would be the Swiftech MCR120-QP = RM180.

...didnt notice that. then you should asked MetalZone laa. maybe he has some recommendation for you....hello watercooling sifus, someone need help here

btw what is your budget for the radiator? that should help when people try to recomend you a rad.

i think with syscooling kit you can use either setup. i've tested both setup with mine (with Nirox P2800 too) and dont see any difference between the two setup. i think the syscooling kit is a very non-restirctive type. it all comes down to the placement of your components. the way i mount my radiator and pumps, i have to use the

pump---->waterblock-----> radiator----->reservoir-----> pump

to use the other options, i have to lengthen the tubings too much and i think that will hurt its performance

yeah lichyetan, why dont u try both setup and report back here with your result since your setup is almost identical to mine.

oh btw....i'm also using a zip-tie to secure my tubings. you can get away with zip-tie on the pump and radiator but make sure you use zip-ties on all blocks. the syscooling blocks have a very short barbs. the tubings have a very limited space to grab on.

yes...you may choose not to use zip-ties on the pump and radiator. but for the waterblock, i highly recomend that u use a zip-ties because the barbs is very short. but to keep it safe, just use zip-ties on all connections. zip-ties are cheap

Hello again . this time i wanna share my Nirox P2800 mod. after using this pump for a while, i feel that the pump is quite hot after a few hours of operation. so i mod the pump to cool it down a little bit. What i'm trying to do here is to create a negative pressure inside the pump casing so cool air will rush in. ok i'll let the pictures do the talking.

here's how the pump look like when you take-off the back cover.


the back cover modded.


fan attached


the final result


sorry but no test result, dont have any temperature measurement device but the pump seems to be cooler when i touch it (but maybe it's just my imagination )....just enjoy the pic....hehehe

thanks. the fan is connected to a molex

@zahri


errr...but i think i see some cracks there at your reservoir now, wait for your relay box to arrive

where??? at the impeller right??? if thats the case you need to epoxy it back together.

i have a mega project coming. i'm thinking of modding my syscooling kit to 1/2" ID barbs i'll change the top of my cpu block with thick acrylic and bolt-in a 1/2" barbs.

but it's still under consideration. dunno will proceed or not.

oohhh...thats not fun. modding and DIYing is much more fun....
i like to DIY and if i choose to do this, it will be my 2nd home made block. my first DIY block was made from a heatsink for my Athlon thunderbird (long time ago) and it uses a bong instead of radiator.
and you wont know how it will perform unitl you build one and test it right

but what if i use a thick acrylic like 10mm thickness. is that enough. i dunno where to get Delrin or how it looks like. maybe if i go and ask in hardware shop, they will "geleng kepala" too...hehehe

omg...that chip is H0T keep it under 60 with default heatsink and i dont think ngbh will ever see this.

ya i know Storm and Apogee use Delrin. but what i mean is i dont how it looks like in raw condition. i thought that Delrin came in liquid form and you poured it into a moulding and get the shape that you want.....

does the coolant improves your temperature??

who hooo.....for the price of that Acetal, i better buy myself an Apogee....

This post has been edited by Shah81: May 5 2006, 08:19 PM

nice to hear that. most likely you wont notice any peformance increase. the head pressure of the pump is already killed by the 1/4" tubings. you will probably see more improvement if you swap the fan on the radiator with a higher CFM fan...try the 100+CFM. i tried it once with a 110CFM fan and i got some nice temp....but the sound of the fan made me swap back to NMB 80CFM fan. i have a very sensitive ears

this is my suggestion:

use 2 different loop, the reason is your current loop is too restrictive because of the 1/4" tubings. so let the first loop stay as it is.

pump_1---->radiator_1---->water block---->reservoir---->pump_1 (loop_1)

pump_2---->radiator_2---->reservoir---->pump_2 (loop_2)

the second loop will further cool the water in the reservoir. so you'll only need one reservoir. you have to mod your reservoir to dual input and output. the second loop can use 1/2" tubings. so when the time comes for you to upgrade your water block, you already have a 1/2" loop in hand.

yeah the pump vibrates alot. i use 2 layers of sponge (the one that came with your mobo) to cushion the pump. before, the whole casing vibrates...now no more "goncang".

yo MetalZone...maybe you can source some lower cost high hmax pump like the Cyber Aqua CA4700 the one in amok's pump shoot-out. this pump have a 3m hmax and should be suitable for Storm i guess.

This post has been edited by Shah81: May 15 2006, 04:00 PM

wah....nice mod there ianho

the acrlic is 5mm thick and he use a jigsaw + dremel to cut it. more info HERE

i think 5mm should be enough i guess. thinner acrylic might be susceptible to cracks at the barb holes area due to the pressure of the tubing.