My apologies. Didn't know I was in a factory forum but then it's comforting to know that I'm not the only one who was not aware what DISCO meant.

Something new learnt today. Thank you.

I come back I see lots of things happen. I thought I was involved in a war but it seems things have changed?

Speaking of buying / selling, I can vouch to say that you sold to my friend the lens for a good price and in good condition. Never had the chance to thank you.

Anyway, for a seller selling a lens knowing full well that there is something very wrong with it without any disclosure is plain unethical lah.

There's no wrong and right. A lot of other factors will come in when choosing a lens. Wide enough, fast enough etc. Depends on user preference. Sharpness is one thing. But the outcome of the pics must look good. No point of having a technically superior lens but does not ngam your shooting style.

At that time when I was looking at the 35mm f/2, the 35mm f/1.8 wasn't available yet and the other choice was the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. I wanted slightly wider and a bigger aperture and therefore the Sigma was my choice. At that time, the Nikkor AF-D 28mm f/1.4 was freaking expensive and you can only find it on ebay at ludicrous prices.

So go out and test. See which focal length suits you. Perhaps you might fall in love with the 35mm f/1.4 and not the more expensive 24mm f/1.4.

LOL Hope you don't terbeli a 24-70 instead.

Nikon users should be proud of using 14mm on Full Frame.

400mm f/2.8 is heavy and still not enough reach. For sports photographer, that would be nice. Better get the 600mm f/4 for about the same weight and price.

But for "lightweight" and still giving good reach, the 500mm f/4 is the one most people get for birding.

Mpixel isn't everything. It's about the quality of the light captured. A 4Mpixel body used to be my main camera.

That's correct.

Very good attempt.

I think they will ask the receipt all the more if the see a blank warranty card.

Would have considered joining. Was away at the BKK Motorshow.

Congrats. How much was it?

Any reason why?

You raised some good points. If you're shooting events or in a crowd, you cannot beat the 70-200mm f/2.8 for versatility. If you shoot one on one and pay the model for a private shooting, then yes you can have the 85mm f/1.4 as you'll have all the time to compose your framing.

Speaking about 24mm f/1.4, even though it overlaps with 3 of my other lenses, it's very special and has a special light gathering ability.

Yup. Get both.

Don't need to get the latest N lenses lor. Get the AF-D 80-200mm f/2.8 and AF-D 85mm f/1.4. Don't need to get the latest and greatest. I'm also shooting with these two. Well, not exactly since my 80-200mm f/2.8 is the AF-S version.

Nice attempt. Not bad.

Luckily you managed to refund but can fungus affect focusing performance of the lens?

Hmmm, usually dust on lens cannot be seen. Usually the dust on the camera sensor is the one that screws up the photo.

Usually, fluorescent lighting emits different waves of light at different frequency intervals and shooting a video under that lighting will show. I'm not too sure but a faster video fps would be the solution?

On another note, setting fluorescent WB and taking photos under that lighting can be frustrating sometimes because one photo would look ok while at another time, you'd get a different colour tintdepending on which light interval flicker you capture.

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Added on March 29, 2011, 9:39 amLOL Actually people who use their lenses daily would not have fungus problems.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Mar 29 2011, 09:39 AM

Yup, prevention is always better but there is a difference between using and abusing. Could be that your friend falls into the latter category.

Well, if you keep your lens straight away in storage and not let the water vapour evaporate and dry up, chances of fungus is high.

It's usually ok if you your lenses fog when going from cold to warm places since straight away after that you would be using your lens and after 20 minutes or so, the fog disappears which is an indication that the water vapour has already dried up. I usually do not shoot straight away. Coming out of the hotel room, I leave it in my bag to slowly warm up to ambient temperature.

I believe the cleaning will only be external type. No opening of lens.

I must say it's a very cleaver baiting system. Once you are there, they will push accessories, filters etc to you.

You don't need a macro lens for your miniatures unless you want to shoot and blow up very tiny small details. The 18-55 lens is sufficient actually because you can get very close to your subject.

Considering the external damage that you have on your D70s, it seems to be a little weird that the SC is so low.

Where did you get that food in UK?

Change your whole shutter unit and your camera's shutter count will reset to zero.

Really?

So you're implying that a D3 (which has same focusing algorithm as the D700) is inferior to D7000? Can you trust what your friends are saying?

The D7000's AF is better than the D90's AF that it replaces but it's still not a D300/D300s and it's definitely not near D700 AF capability.

Car with low mileage can also die if it's not taken proper care.

Why did your friend say your D70s is going to die? Base on what reason?

It's not 2 times the pixel. The D7000 is 4,928 x 3,264 while the D700 is 4,256 x 2,832. If you print it out on paper, 12MP to 16MP is not so much more.

Aiks... Don't take the car analogy bulat-bulat lah... The difference with cameras is that the only moving part is the shutter mechanism. With the car you have a lot of other mechanical parts as well.

I would think somewhere along the lines of recalibrating the new shutter with the old body, the counter gets reset.

Looks like your pics are front focused? What lens + body?

Yup.

It looks more front focused. If it was handshake, the prints of the shirt at the bottom would also be blurred. It's sharp.

What focus mode are you using? AF-C or AF-S?

VR won't help because the camera focused on the wrong area.

A flashgun would help if you have a shaky hand but still would not help if the camera focused on the wrong area.

I cannot see the EXIF but I suspect it's shot at wide open with thin DoF.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Mar 30 2011, 01:48 PM

With the Canon, you cannot see the shutter count from the EXIF and therefore rely on the image numbering to estimate the number of shots from the camera. Of course with the help of the Canon SC you can check. With the Nikon, you can reset the image counter of the JPG/NEF file anytime you want. However the EXIF will always tell the truth about the shutter count.

VR will help reduce handshake but in this case not because the photo blur is not caused by handshake.

Like I said, look at the pic carefully. You'll see that the bottom part where the shirt is closest to the camera is sharp. If it was handshake problem, the shirt will also be blur. This is clearly a case of the camera front focusing.

Not true. I bought very close to 8k for my D700 body only which one week later konk.

Oh, ok. Still that does not make it a D300/D300s/D700/D3/D3s/D3x beater when it comes to focusing.

Try and use the Auto ISO feature. Set minimum shutter speed (eg 1/80 for 50mm on DX body) and minimum ISO to 1600 or 3200 whichever you choose. Set the ISO increment to 1/3 of stop instead of half or 1 full stop.

I have not. Why don't you send this private question to Nikon and see what they reply? Ask sports photographers if the D7000 AF is serious enough for sports use.

Do you think Nikon would still be selling D700 for nearly double the price of the D7000? Think about it.

Now why would you want to do that? Isn't D7000 the better camera?

If you're changing, what are you looking for? The D300s has better AF and ergonomics. Else, both are similar.

Aiks... My apologies.

Cool. Looks tasty.

Unless you have a D700/D3/D3s.

The left and right are with 35mm f/1.8?

Take a latest JPG file shot from the Nikon camera you're planning to buy. Look at the EXIF data of the JPG file and you can see how many shots already fired from the camera.

Aiks... Uncle? What body?

Oh, than it's not me.

Wah, Foh San also got photo competition? I use to pop in Foh San everytime I pass by Ipoh. Sometimes miss the timing for Dim Sum as it's already too late. There's actually one at SS2 PJ but I don't know if it's still there. I thought it was already closed.

The 200mm micro is a legend !

Self taught from exchanging ideas and tips on the internet.

It helps that you get a muse (two in fact) that are really good models.

Or like what he says, stop shooting after 5pm.

Errr, not if you carry a 200mm f/2.0.

Yup. But then some people will maintain to say that the 35mm f/2.0 is sharp wide open.

The only lenses that shoots sharp at wide open are the 24mm f/2.4, 35mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.4 and 200mm f/2.0.

Because the 35mm f/2.0 must be stopped down further to f/2.2, f/2.5, f/2.8.

The newer 85mm f/1.4G should be better lah since it's newer tech.

Well, the past samples you show was said to be sharp but I don't find it sharp. How?

I don't know about others but I think you did good. Looks great.

BTW, happy birthday. I very geli your avatar.

Great shot of Manny.