Yup, that's you, haha.....
The best way is, reset your ECU first, that's the fastest and cheapest way.... Remove the ECI fuse and crank start your engine, just to discharge it. I got my problem solved by this.
Suspect is the VDO version.... Stupid design to have a crank pulley sensor....
Engine die on low rpm can be due to TB, just get it clean and should able to solve your problem. Another thing is, upgrade your engine's grounding wire....
Do a reset and still cannot, the best is burn rm50 at Proton SC to check what's the actual problem...
I never mod this before, but the air to combustion chamber need certain temperature....

You reset your ECU then done? 

i love my 1.5, hahah 
if you think that's the problem then u try to look up the wiring sensor at the center bullet at your piping there. It might loose.

bro u change or do full flushing? usually, i do flushing, which cost me 3 unit of 4 liter atf oil. i bought aisin brand, cost me only RM70 for 4liter.

Maintaining a old car is not easy also..

The thing that I can see need to be change are the following:
Necessary, need to change as soon as possible
Engine Oil - 95
Oil filter - 10
Brake disc - 250
Brake pad - 100
Engine mounting - 300

Total = 755

Not rushing, but need to be change
Tyre & rims - 1500
Exhaust system - 1200
Sport absorbers -  650
Roof top = 1000

Total = 4350

Imagine those are only wear and tear parts..lol..forgetting those mod that I plan to do..

auto GB oil i thought have to change every 20k km?

I changed my ATF every 15k km or so. Currently, my driveshaft driver side has been damaged. Drivable, but when cornering to the left at curves, it gives woong sound. Other than that, still ok. Steering dashboard not yet shaking. Also, sometimes in the morning, I find that the car didn't move after shifting to D, 2, L and even pressing the gas pedal, RPM goes high but the car doesn't move. It's like shifting to N and press the gas. R still ok. I understand that driveshaft also needs ATF, yea ? Just afraid if the oil might run out due to leaking and causes the gear to near malfunction, thus gearbox problem.

bro, what is the point if you change atf oil, but not flush it. u see, inside the gearbox, is about 6 ~ 7 liter. the moment you open the oil sump, you just bring out about 3 to 4 liter oil. the rest? thats why u need to to flushing. imagine this, the moment you pour new oil, the new oil will mix up with bad oil. is it meant here your oil is new oil? no right? do 30k or 40k km flushing once instead, much better. after two times, do change the filter inside the gearbox. solenoid is replaceable, about RM500. but solenoid is rarely rosak, but still can rosak    .

lol, usually i use 3 bottles of 4 litres. but still got extra about 2 litre la, can topup later if needed. at oil sump got skru there, just open it then your car will bleed.. lol (aft is red, so looks like your car bleeding) 

pecah ur headlamp then change to eagle eye then 

My right-rear door's lock sometimes stuck. Even i already press the remote twice, it still stuck. Only use key it can be opened.

Do you think it needs to be repaired at workshop or me do DIY open the doortrim by myself?

Sorry, too newbie..

Hi sifus... I got a question here leh... I am driving wira 1993 1.5(A) ... I dunno why sometime i always scare my baby will break down..Like if theres a bit of noise i will be vefy precaution.. Hahah..  But actually i service it regularly and changed quite a lot of stuffs already.. Does anyone have this kinda experience ar??
Another thing is that i want to ask sifus... My wira when i go till around 90 and above then my engine will like revving higher... Isit because of auto has only 3 speed gear??
ThAnks

RM300? get S3 la..RM160 only 
I'm using now 

most important take non-mf~

i rebuilt my enigne but accident 2weeks ago~
now my car total lost but only left now is my engine still running good~

sigh~
i got only GMB , local made edi~

aiyo,so sad~
rm50 for u best price if u wanna get lor~