Yup, I did see them but thot yu changed the whole unit la! Cos earlier wan cld see orange lamp whereas other one not hv...

Paiseh...Need 2hv my eyes checked liao! Haha!

---

Added on May 29, 2011, 8:15 pmDIY? Using stickers or ...?

This post has been edited by zeone: May 29 2011, 08:15 PM

Good 4yu! Congrats on great DIY!!

Orang lain? Sunday nite la...

That's a GREAT suggestion! Esp this 2nd one!!

Does this look familiar...mayb at least similar? Haha!


This post has been edited by zeone: May 30 2011, 09:25 PM

Hi! I'd accidentally triggered my FL alarm many times altho key in pocket.

So am thinking of cloning alarm in2 a new unit with protective cover. Then removing batt fr key 2disable orig alarm.

Will immobiliser still work with alarm as separate unit? If not wrong, Myvi sys works that way.

Anyone tried that? Pls... TQ.

AFAIK, all of 4L oil is not needed & NVR poured into engine wan...even by SC ppl...

If any oil treatment additive (I used to use Bardahl 1) is 2b added, it is advisable :

1. to pour in a little new oil,
2. then add the additive
3. followed by topping-up of engine oil to correct max level in oil sump.
4. Run the engine for a few mins
5. then check the oil level after abt 5 mins via the dipstick.
6. Top up with engine oil if necessary.

ps. That's what I used to do...

---

Added on May 31, 2011, 2:32 pmRide wld feel more solid/steady most of the time and wld be more controllable at corners...had one but of different make in my old ride. Saved me fantastically once when I had to suddenly swerve cos I had better control @that split sec!

ps. my 2 sen nia.

This post has been edited by zeone: May 31 2011, 02:32 PM

I used Bardahl 1 in my old ride cos I was using simple mineral oil ie Petronas Mach 5...haha! I'd felt then at that time the engine oil was in its bare ingredients and any help wld be beneficial. Agreed?

Then when times were better & I cld afford Mobil 1, no more additives were used! Any additive wld be redundant, true? Haha!

Now with my FL & using Petronas semi-syn by Proton SCs, me am wondering if there is any such need...? What do yu guys think?

This post has been edited by zeone: May 31 2011, 02:55 PM

I used Bardahl 1 previously cos was impressed by local tests run in presence of local journalists & AAM!

B 1 added to engine oil of test cars & then run for a short time and drained of all oil.

1 test was return trip fr KL to Bkt Kayu Hitam (hope correct). 2nd run fr KL return trip to Genting.

Cars in test made runs safely home! Dun think any other oil treatments did similar tests locally. Pls correct me if wrong. TQ.

Later I chose Mobil 1 full-syn cos of proven test of 1 million miles(?) then engine was stripped & immeasurable wear & tear on bearings!

ps. Now too poor 2afford Mobil 1... Times hv changed! Haha!

---

Added on May 31, 2011, 3:35 pmOf course there is! Do take yr car to nearest SC & make a complaint/claim since still under warranty...

This post has been edited by zeone: May 31 2011, 03:35 PM

Yup, that's the way to confirm if that feature is working or not.

I'd assumed that our fren, Aishinka, had oledi tried it & it did not work...

Frankly every new car owner shld sit down for enuf time to read thru the User's Manual that is provided upon delivery of the new car. Then one shld try out each & every feature available to confirm all are in working order...except for the airbags, of course! Haha!

It's time very much worth spending....IMHO...

ps. One shld apply same to any new gadget one buys...hehe...

Yup, for the auto-lock to work, the car alarm must be armed first! Then disarm it.
If now you do not arm it and do not open any door, then the alarm sys will arm it automatically after abt 30 secs or so!

Simple nia.

If you've been driving arnd and open & close the door when you get down, the alarm sys will NOT lock the doors for you wan...hehe...
See the difference?

Yup, it wld be...if yu can obtain the ...w/40 grade type since most BLM/FL owners hv found this grade most suitable.

I was using the 5w/50 Mobil 1 for my old ride. Very smooth quiet engine still with great compression after almost 20yrs!! And almost 300k Km on the clock!

If we go acc2 rec in User Manual, that grade still fits present BLM requirements too.

This post has been edited by zeone: May 31 2011, 09:06 PM

Nope. Nvr. Cos such brand not easily available arnd here...
Buying via Online not gud idea cos heavy item, etc.

I've oledi got 2x4L Castrol Magnatec & 1x4L Mobil 1 for future use! In the meantime, services @Proton CS use their Petronas Syn 800 semi while under warranty.

---

Added on May 31, 2011, 10:42 pmDepends on yr SC T&C la...

This post has been edited by zeone: May 31 2011, 10:43 PM

SC @near my place uses same Petronas Syn 800. Not all oil is used. Saw mech open seal of new "bottle"!! SC kept bal of oil. Cust here free 2move arnd wkshop.
Me din ask back cos new car not need top-up wan. This way SC ppl happy & me happy cos when go back nxt service they'll b happy 2C me cos no "bad" memories...haha!

---

Added on June 1, 2011, 7:22 amMayb nxt time do ask yr mech for reason?
Kenot understand how a good branded oil of correct grade can cause serious damage to any engine...

This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 1 2011, 07:26 AM

QC of new cars unpredictable esp for local makes cos very dependent on QC Chk ppl's mood? Haha!

Fyi step 1 of wiper ctrl is "intermittent" ie it does NOT wipe all the time but at reg intervals.

Door "buttons" for rear doors do NOT go up as high as front doors. Is that wat yu observe? If so, it's normal.

As for FC, yu kno the FC oledi stated in flyers/brochures b4 purchase. Anything better is a BONUS!!

This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 1 2011, 05:22 PM

How many Km travelled b4 abs changed? Rec type of abs to change to? Can share? TQ!

Hi...

Feel our ways if testing FC not really correct. Different service stations & different pumps operate differently when using the auto-stop feature of their pumps!
At most, our figures are only a very ROUGH guide.

As long as the figures/stats don't suddenly dip so much on refills, feel it's ok...

Wat's this abt?

Best news is... Nothing wrong with the car!!

It's DIRT... Dirt = oil, grease, dust, anything yu dun wanna see on car paintwork...haha! And like k_eyezax & sa10 said : looks more obvious & worse on White/light-coloured car!!
Owner needs 2b more hardworking @washing/cleaning new car!

This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 3 2011, 05:38 PM

In my case, i've found my 1.3 FL Exec Auto FC lots better than my ole PS 1.5I Auto in more ways than one!
As is now, my FL fc is as good as my ole ride (if not better...at times)!!
And best of all, I can use RON95 w/o any fear of pinking! And this oledi saves me RM1/L !! So for every 2L for my FL, I get an xtra 1L to use!! Isn't that "BETTER" fuel consumption? Being positive la...Haha!

This prob is common for solid colour paintwork. Metallic paint got xtra clearcoat over paint colour.

Suggest yu wash car clean clean first. Then use good quality wax. I use PG Polymer Sealant. After that, shld b easy during future washes with good car shampoos as dirt, etc will not stick to paintwork so strongly.

A good quality wash&wax type wld b better than ordinary detergents/car shampoos cos also adds protective wax coat on drying...

Hope that helps...

This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 3 2011, 09:34 PM