Can it stand on its own? O_O

Hahaha. Looks like we all have the same idea ;D

I was thinking I might start one up in 4 - 5 years time once I had enough dough. I'd bring in some other stuff that are hard to get in Msia, something like a small-scaled ASOS/EndClothing. But it'd be quite a rough ride, going in and out of the country starting relationships with the brands and their marketing people.

Anyway, this crazy dude did 365 blog posts about the Unbranded pair of his. Every single day, no fail, 2 shots. One front one back. I only took a look at first page and last page, but I guess he's more of a behind-the-desk guy. His fades didn't look stunning, but I applaud him for all the pictures and hard work he put in! If I started one, I'd probably never have gotten to day 100 lol.

For a $85 pair of jeans, those look real fine after a year

http://www.withoutwash.com/

No worries. Yes it does look like its more of a slim fit. Depends on individuals though. Some people have differently shaped legs and they fit like a skinny on a slim and vise versa.

Denims I'm toying with in my mind:

Iron Hearts 666sod (black overdie)
Imperial Shearers black
Flat Head x NF x Tate&Yoko

Looking for a black denim in the next coming months, I want something from IH or FH. But won't throw the towel on a pair of Shearers yet (IF I can find one of those... so rare.. so rare..)
My criteria also includes a thick and heavy pair for the coming winter in 4 months time. Anything above 15oz should be fine. I believe IH666 is 18oz, and Shearers are either 14.5oz or 15oz. I got no time for more reading

Any input guys?

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jan 26 2012, 10:39 PM

That's a wrong assumption there.. Imperials and Samurais don't stretch that much. Iron Hearts too I think. And for the unsanforized ones... sometimes its better to upsize if you don't like them tight.

Its ok

Easy mistake to make, because a large portion of the more mainstream denim makers use denim that can stretch. Examples (from most "stretchy" to least "stretchy") :

APC (sz down 3-4)
Dior (sz down 2-3)
Nudies (sz down 2-3)
N&F (sz down 1-2)

APC is one of the more extreme ones... sounds super over the top when you're asked to go THREE WHOLE INCHES smaller than your regular waist. It really sounds a bit dumb... but because they stretch like elastane... >_>

The more traditional denim makers like Momotaro, SugarCane, IronHearts, Samurais, Skulls and Imperials have jeans that are really rigid and these.. don't do that stretchy thing that much =D

I shouldn't be delving into this anymore. The more I read, the more I find out about better jeans that fit my requirements... and the more I feel like spilling some dough >_>

http://www.prontodenim.com/store/2011/05/imperial-tama/

Imperial Tama!

So let me share some stuff I learnt about the Imps from Sufu and HypeBeast.

Generally.. the Imperials are known for their main 2 fits - Dukes and Kings. Shearers are rather "new", their 3rd cut.. but even so, the Shearers have been out for like 4 years now? And then, they came up with Tama their 4th cut. It was so hush hush. This brand, it seems, has ZERO marketing, ZERO branding/promotional activities at all. You never see them do a collab and everyone blogs about it. You never see an Ad for it. Heck, they don't even have like a proper tag on the jeans! They just come just as. N&F has some tags on the backpocket, Nudies has their tags and little booklet about the brand and organic denim etc. Imperials just come naked like that.

They are a fcking pain in the ass to find, even in Australia. You will have an easier time getting them off SE.com than here. The brand hails from Queensland, Australia. Only ONE store in Queensland stocks them. And they stock only like 2 or 3 pairs of each make, on the common sizes (29~32 only). Nobody sells them in Sydney I think. And from 4 stores in Melbourne & Perth, every store had cleared their stocks off and speaking with the owners, they vowed never to stock them anymore. I didn't get to find out why though. There is only one single shop left in Melb that stocks them. Even so, I only managed to find ONE pair of Kings in that store. Size 30. No Dukes no Shearers no nothing. The SA didn't even know they carried Imperial. She asked me "what is that? i've never seen it... good on you to have found them while digging around!". It is really quite sad, bordering on pathetic.

Anyway, about the sizing/cuts :

Imperial Kings - Relaxed Straight Fit. They go up to 38" inseam, so that's good for anyone above 6 feet 4. Roomy thighs, roomy calves, regular leg opening. Us small sized Asians might find it a little too baggy perhaps.



Imperial Dukes - Slim Straight Fit. They go up to 37.5" inseam I think. Smaller thigh area, tight top block, ever so slightly tapered knee down, smaller leg opening than Kings. To me, its a plain straight cut. Much like the Levis 501s. But with a tight top block.



Imperial Shearers - Fits like a Grim Tim. Inspired by the shearers who sheared wool off sheep (you'll understand if you look at the leather patch), the Shearers have a very roomy thigh area so that shearers had space to move their legs when trying to keep those sheep in a head-lock with their knees. The Shearers also come very much tapered knee downwards. So they are fitting in the calf area, and have a small leg opening.



Imperial Tama - The very first unisex jean from Imperial. Sz 29 and below has smaller backpockets. Sz 30 and above have larger backpockets. These are skinny slim cut. Tight in the top block. Tight in the thighs. Hugs your legs all the way down. Narrow leg opening. Also the first Imperial jean to have a little stretch in it. But I think there is no elastane in them, somehow, the denim material and the denim quality has not been forsaken. Beautiful leather patch shows a curl in the waves - inspired by (hence the name) Tamara Beach in Sydney.



The tama looks like a real good fit for skinny dudes. I think I would look good in one of those. Imperials have other pairs which are slim fit too, but they are mostly collabs.

SEXI04 - Self Edge x Imperials
SEXI08 - Self Edge x Imperials
SEXI14 - Self Edge x Imperials
PROXI-03 (???) Pronto Denim x Imperials

All the collabs are slim fit. Seriously nice stuff, but at hefty price tags (from SelfEdge.com of course). Annoys the shit out of me that nobody else sells them. Seriously annoys the shit out of me. But I guess my wallet is happy that way.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jan 28 2012, 09:16 PM

You're confusing yourself man. The stretching of 2-3 inches already takes into account the vanity sizing tags.

Don't double count that and add another 2-3 to make it 5 inches. Doesn't make sense anymore right?

@apsidewatch

For Imperials

some buddy loves you
all of the above

For APCs

INCU in QV (overpriced shit, $450 for a pair of APCs lololol)

For Dior Homme

Assin @ little collins st.

For Nudies

Nudies flagship store @ little collins st.
General Pants (many locations) has a good variety
Myer (many locations) also has a good variety

For N&F

That Store (many places)
Harrolds (N&F, Momotaros) @ collins st.
and several others I didn't take notice of..

For Ksubi

New Ksubi store @ Melbourne Central

You're confusing yourself man. The stretching of 2-3 inches already takes into account the vanity sizing tags.

Don't double count that and add another 2-3 to make it 5 inches. Doesn't make sense anymore right?

@apsidewatch

For Imperials

some buddy loves you
all of the above

For APCs

INCU in QV (overpriced shit, $450 for a pair of APCs lololol)

For Dior Homme

Assin @ little collins st.

For Nudies

Nudies flagship store @ little collins st.
General Pants (many locations) has a good variety
Myer (many locations) also has a good variety

For N&F

That Store (many places)
Harrolds (N&F, Momotaros) @ collins st.
and several others I didn't take notice of..

For Ksubi

New Ksubi store @ Melbourne Central

All of the above stocked imperial in 2009/2010, not sure if they still do. Your better bet would be Some Buddy Loves You. I think that's on Smith st.

If you're looking for shopping, you're gonna want to be on Smith st anyway. Loads of warehouses. And for all things fashion, do drop by Chapel st.
Lots of indie and non-mainstream stuff. You can try FAT store.. the more fashionable locals go there.

---

Added on January 29, 2012, 9:37 pm



Dukes.

Three things I sort of regret here.

Not hemming them
Not tapering them
Washing too early

But I will break it down

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jan 29 2012, 09:37 PM

Lol what? These pics are only the tip of the iceberg. Surf Sufu and SF seriously. The denim scene there is mind blowing. Most threads are free of trolls too. Most people will help you with sizing and shit

I'm not gonna surf anymore coz I know how poisonous those pics can be *shivers*

I could get you a duke at around A$270~$290. I facebooked a contact in Adelaide and he says they're left with one pair of Indigo and one pair of Black in 28. They might price drop even to A$250 just to clear these last 2 pairs.

Dukes, you can also get from halfsleeve (sydney) or apartment (queensland). They have online stores. I love how all boutique stores nowadays have online stores. This is what it takes to thrive in retail now.

---

Added on January 30, 2012, 9:30 pmBtw, where do you guys get your APCs from? Like what's the cheapest I can get it for? If there are any out there for about 100 bucks, lemme know. I might get that just for kicks, if its cheap. So far, everywhere is about $170 and above. Weren't APCs supposed to be cheaper than that?

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jan 30 2012, 09:30 PM

Those are raw alright. And they're made from selvedge denim. Congratulations on your first step into this world

Now for fit pictures!

They look really good Stiffy You made a good decision.

Looks like you're over the moon with your purchase. Congrats! Fit pic please? That pair looks real slubby tho.

Someone's NF x Momo

Source : Itsworn.com

It will. It will become so super soft and comfortable. Because it would have moulded into the shape of your legs, thighs, knees and calves.

Wash it when you feel it has become filthy. You will get a dry, fresh and crisp pair of jeans after each wash. I just love how crisp a pair of raws becomes after a wash.

Not a problem



One of the best fades I've seen. Not just regular fades... the contrast achieved is just so wow!

@public holiday

There was a pair of flatheads I saw somewhere that achieved something like what I posted. The guy achieved it in only 8 months. He cycled a lot, and always went trekking.

In our comfy life in cars, there's no way we'll be able to achieve those in less than a year. I walk a lot every day, but the thing is I rotate 3 pairs so they will all probably show some results only end of this year or next.

If you guys just wear that one pair, you'll produce much better results

The only thing I know that will affect loss of indigo is the type of detergent you use.

I personally think its too trivial... but if you're really hardcore, you could go and try to find some special denim soap for soaking/washing your jeans. I think sugarcane has their special soap for sale, you should check them out

PS: Check this site out

http://artistdenim.com/

This post has been edited by Grimm: Feb 12 2012, 07:46 PM

~_~

Soaking is to loosen up the fibres

@goldlion

Why are you letting it go? It looks awesome to me. If I were working in an office everyday (which I think I will in a few months time..) it would certainly be hard to put some decent wear into my jeans, but who cares if it fits real comfy and it has moulded to your body, should be perfectly satisfied with it

@h11g

Too many brands to choose from even online But there are really many choices to choose for in Thailand. I daresay.. after Japan and the US, Thailand comes in pretty close as the place to source raw or/and selvedge denim. They have lots of local denim manufacturers too. I mean REAL enthusiasts who stick to the core - japanese selvedge denim from the mills, proper copper rivets and pretty good construction for a good fit.