Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed
3 Pages  1 2 3 >Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V3, Dark Lord going strong

views
     
Andy214
post Dec 28 2010, 07:48 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(fisherman10 @ Dec 28 2010, 07:02 PM)
doh.gif okokok lemme explain.

it happens frequently and randomly. whether it's burst at 6fps, burst at 3fps or single shot. it gives me the Err intermittently at various shutter speeds once the err comes out, i off it, take out the lens, i can see that the mirror is flipped up and the shutter is covering the sensor. i then have to on back, press the shutter again then only the mirror will drop. but before i take out the lens, i can see the image review that it's all black.  sad.gif

mine doesnt have the black line at the top or bottom like the link i posted. but u read what the TS said, he also had intermittent Err probs with the mirror/shutter jamming.


Added on December 28, 2010, 7:06 pmthe funny thing is, i used the cam quite a lot, more than 1k shots as it went to the 2nd folder on my memory card since i got it. nothing happened, went to klcc, icity, church event and all no prob.

until just now, decided to test fast shutter speed. after 2 shots, gave me Err. and then now it keeps on happening quite frequently. i would say once every 3 shots on average.
*
What lens are you using?
There is a warning about using switching the AF <-> M mode for certain type of lens.
Can also try read on the troubleshooting part on the user manual and see if there's any information.
Andy214
post Dec 29 2010, 10:43 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(fisherman10 @ Dec 28 2010, 08:52 PM)
doing a stress test now to find out problems earlier might be better than dying when u need it or when your warranty is out
i'm using nikon 18-200mm VR1. happens when autofocus is enabled and almost in manual focus. happens in all modes, AF-C, AF-S, AF-A.

heck....even when there's no lens mounted and no memory card, it still gives the Err.
*
What do you mean almost in manual focus?

there is few condition that will trigger the Err, including not mounting properly, and for AF-D lens, the aperture ring need to set to highest f-number on the lens.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 29 2010, 03:41 PM
Andy214
post Dec 29 2010, 12:17 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(destroyer666 @ Dec 29 2010, 11:57 AM)
thanks celciuz......that means I can take approx. 5 pix without memory card.....so there is nothing to worry about rite

but then why my pix count didn't even drop when i take pix.......it stay at 1.0k all the time......is this the limit D90 can shows in LCD......I mean the max D90 can shows in its LCD is 1.0k while in actual I can shot more than 1k.......and the number will only start to drop when the remaining size can occupy less than 1k pix??
*
If it shows only 1.0k, and the actual value is like 1050, of course it won't drop...
Unless you have 1100 shots remaining, then it will show 1.1K.

Try change your capture to RAW or RAW+JPEG.
Andy214
post Dec 29 2010, 03:47 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(fisherman10 @ Dec 29 2010, 02:12 PM)
maybe that's coz it's just wayyy too underexposed.
underexposed or decent exposure is not the problem here. at iso6400, i can still see a very dim image on the times it work. on the ones that show Err. the image is black. black as in "lens cap on" black.
LOL...i can understand why you're saying that. though this is my first dslr for a week, I've been using dslrs for a long time.

my problem now is, sometimes the mirror/shutter does not complete the whole cycle. let's not talk about underexposed or not. what i'm getting is black. total black like as if u had the lens cap on.

this Err problem happens intermittently but quite frequently. on the times it snaps correctly, I get an underexposed image or a normal image. on the times it fails (Err), i get a "lens cap on" black image.

now it doesnt just happen at 1/8000, it randomly happens at lower shutter speeds like 1/60, 1/40. ISO is at auto, so on the times it work, i get a normal image, on times it fail, i get black image but exif still shows the actual shutter speed i set.

when top LCD shows Err. i switch it off, took out the lens, saw the mirror was up and the shutter was covering the sensor. put it back, switched it on, press the shutter button again, and i can hear the mirror flip down. now I can continue snapping.

sorry if this is real long but i cant really think of a better way to explain this as I dont have a video of it.  notworthy.gif
*
See Page 306 of the User Manual.

Indicator: Err (blinks)
Problem: Camera malfunction
Solution: Release Shutter. If problem persists or appear frequently, consult Nikon-autorized service representatives.

When you send to Nikon, show them this in the User manual to help explain your case.

Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 11:56 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(nicky1112001 @ Jan 2 2011, 10:57 AM)
so in wat mode i need to use??p , s , a , m .....or other mode??wat this all diffrent??in indorr..like wedding dinner...normaly use wat mode.?and how much iso i need to up??1600?
*
u need to read up more on the modes, and also read up about the relation of the 3 main thing:
1. Shutter Speed
2. Apeeture
3. ISO

basically, if you're new, you can use shutter priority (S) mode or Aperture priority (A) mode depending on situation.
S mode - when you need to capture movements, e.g. peole walking/moving, set shutter speed around 1/100 or try yourself to see which speed can freeze the motion (depending on the movement).
A mode - when shutter speed is not important, e.g. taking stationary objects, or maybe group photo. Group photo you might want to control the aperture to capture enough depth to get everyone in focus.

ISO - for the above 2 mode, you can use auto ISO and maybe set max ISO (if you cam have this option). Know your camera iso noise capability or acceptable level then set it as maximum or as you desire.

if you're using the kit lens, basically, you can just use shutter priority since your aperture is already not very big. f/3.5 @ 18mm if enough to capture most group photos. If needed then you can switch to Aperture priority mode to dial in smaller aperture (bigger f number e.g. f4 or f4.5)

You can also try out (P) Program Auto mode as you progress.
.
Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 02:06 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(bbuser91 @ Jan 2 2011, 12:24 PM)
I wan to ask when taking group photo , where are you all focus at? ? Im new too , when taking more than one person , i hard to make the background blur ><"

I will focus on a person eye when taking one person
wink.gif  wink.gif
*
for group photo, the basic rule is always capture the center person, as in row and same line.
depth of Field is the depth, not wide. Try set widest aperture and focus on a word, the entrie line of worth should be in focus, just like the focus chart, it's about the depth not the wideness.

For wedding or event group photo, usually we try to focus on the main subject (e.g. the wedding couple). Most important are them right?
For normal group, lets say 3 rows, focus on the person in 2nd row. You can try play around and see with different focus point, see how the person are in focus.
If you focus wrongly, e.g. 3 row and you focus on the person in 1st row, you want to get the person in row 3 in focus, you will need smaller aperture.
sometimes, even the stand of same row, they may not be standing on the exact same line, so you have to becareful with your aperture. If enough light, dial in smaller aperture, and most important is to focus on the main subject.


Added on January 2, 2011, 2:09 pm
QUOTE(alvinX @ Jan 2 2011, 02:05 PM)
Hi guys, under what circumstance required to use minimum aperture?

Thanks smile.gif
*
when you need more depth of field.

e.g. scenery/landscape/etc, you want to try to get as many thing in focus as possible, right?

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 2 2011, 02:09 PM
Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 03:45 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(geekster129 @ Jan 2 2011, 02:17 PM)
just back from wedding actual day shooting. Kitlens 18mm on APS-C also can die. House too cramped. I wished I got an FF body. sweat.gif

I almost used my kitlens like a "18mm prime lens" tongue.gif


Added on January 2, 2011, 2:18 pm

I went for f/5.6-f/7.1 for group photos. Saves all my hassle. icon_idea.gif


Added on January 2, 2011, 2:19 pm

Just now actual day wedding shoot for just 6 hours I have spammed almost 700+ shots, not counting shutter spam count tonight for dinner. sweat.gif
*
If you have flash, then less worry on the small aperture, else, you need to worry about the iso/noise unless its outdoor.

QUOTE(BenSow @ Jan 2 2011, 02:28 PM)
how to use f3.6 on D3100 with 18-55?? largest oso i can use is 5.6 o.o
*
at 18mm maximum aperture is f/3.5
at 55mm its f/5.6


Added on January 2, 2011, 3:46 pm
QUOTE(General_Nic @ Jan 2 2011, 03:44 PM)
u mean f/3.5 issit?
f/3.5 only available @ 18mm la, when 55mm is f/5.6 max
*
go for fix aperture zoom lens brows.gif

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 2 2011, 03:46 PM
Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 04:08 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(General_Nic @ Jan 2 2011, 03:58 PM)
f/2.8 not enuf for me, must at least f/1.4  whistling.gif
*
I mean zoom lens tongue.gif

Of course, got wider aperture is better, price also very 'the' nice
Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 05:32 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Jan 2 2011, 04:15 PM)
Ask general nic buy for you, he very 'the' kaya whistling.gif
*
thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 2 2011, 05:34 PM
Andy214
post Jan 2 2011, 07:54 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(BenSow @ Jan 2 2011, 07:39 PM)
What is function of RAW photos? o.o
*
RAW is WAR! hehehe tongue.gif

Raw file is Raw, which means its unedited, non-process, non-compressed, etc. you can think of the negative of the film.
JPEG is compressed, processed by the camera, etc. So, dependong on each model, the JPEG quality will be different.

With JPEG, there will be limited post processing, but for RAW file, you can do much more. If your camera support RAW processing, you can process your RAW file to JPEg, applying NR, adjust WB, exposure, ,icture control, etc. So, it better than ypu shoot JPEG. In case you need to capture the moment and got no time to check your camera settings, you can correct your exposure better with RAW, there's also more details preserved, etc.
Basically, RAW is the RAW file captured, like negative, so you can do much more as all the information/data is preserved (as captured by the camera - unprocessed).

Correct me if I'm wrong tongue.gif
Andy214
post Jan 3 2011, 11:43 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 3 2011, 11:05 AM)
yeah.. that's true.
yesterday, I did PP and almost increase the sharpness of every picture I taken with 35mm 1.8.
not really satisfy with the sharpness yet very happy with the bokeh it delivered.

is 50 on DX only good at taking picture? I mean if you want to include a little background w/o move back too much is that possible?  hmm.gif
kind of confuse about the focal range.

50mm does it mean the focus is 50 millimeter from the object? where as 35mm means the focus is 35 millimeter from the object?
it's kinda confusing for me because sometimes, for 35mm I can shoot a very near/very far object and both have the focus.  rclxub.gif

need some advice on here. sifu KTCY
*
On DX, focal range X 1.5
35mm become 52.5mm
50mm become 75mm (telephoto)

50mm on DX good for portrait shot, but you need to stand quite far. If you sit on table and wanna take your friends, you'll wish you have wider lens. When you're in tight space, you'll feel it, even 35mm on DX can be tight in many situation, I wish I have a real 35mm range.
When taking group photo, you need move quite back, with 50mm, LoL, I think you'll be standing quite far away and taking some time to find the right spot.

My friend bought the 50mm f1.4D, went for his friend wedding dinner,then calls me asking me to bring over my 35mm...

If you focus correctly, correct exposure with proper ISO, the sharpness is good. If you off focus even just a little, the image can get .soft.

Andy214
post Jan 3 2011, 12:26 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 3 2011, 11:45 AM)
that is the tough part. I guess I need to learn more w/ my 35mm  tongue.gif
thanks!  thumbup.gif
*
Try take outdoor under bright daylight or sufficient lighting or use flash gun for indoor, use tripod if u have, see the result when it's focus properly.
You can also try AF-C when hand held to help getting more accurate focus due to slight movement, you might notice the focus change even you move just a little.
Proper exposure also important, try to keep the ISO low to avoid noise.

QUOTE(alvinX @ Jan 3 2011, 11:48 AM)
i own a 50mm on DX, i can feel each of your words deep down in my heart. well spoke bro !!

but nice lens. Take times to master it!
*
Yup, its a nice lens on DX for portrait or certain situation, each range have its own purpose. It'll be nice to have all of it tongue.gif
Andy214
post Jan 3 2011, 12:49 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Jan 3 2011, 12:25 PM)
I oso got the feeling of ditching the 35mm and grab the 50mm, coz 35mm to me is stuck in the middle, not wide not narrow, take portrait bokeh not strong enuf, take group pic now wide enuf....  sweat.gif  since the 17-50 serve me well more den enuf for walk about lens and group pic, so I thinking of letting go the 35mm and get the sigma 50mm, or mayb keeping the 35mm, see how it goes 1st, best is get both the Sigma 50mm + 35 F2D, haha.... prepares for FX in future
*
Yup, stuck in middle, but for indoor shot, it's more useful than 50mm most of the time, or during dinner sitting down, you don't have to move around, move to the back, etc. Espeicially tight place, you cannot go behind anymore, I face this problem even with 35mm sometimes when the people wanna take group shot while sitting down.

Anyway, I notice many pro FX owner owns or buys the 35mm f1.8G DX, even use it on their D3S.
Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 11:11 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(wp188 @ Jan 4 2011, 10:26 AM)
I waited for a long long time to take this model,

1)The crowd walking here and there,they even walk in front of you doh.gif
2)I standby all the things,camera and post to take this model for long time,I walking here and there few times shakehead.gif
3)Have to wait model eye contact with me

BTW I remember all the C&C  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
Thanks a lot  laugh.gif  laugh.gif  laugh.gif
*
Don't worry, you're not in a studio or have the model all bh yourself or the place all by yourself. Mos important thing firstly is to capture the correct moment (better than capture when her eyes close, etc), get the exposure right, etc.
Besides, most important is you're satisfied with the shot and then try to get better shts, porbably you might also taken a few shots and you'll appreciate some shots that are well taken, especially at the situation you mention above.

Sometimes, to get the right frame/etc, you need to move around (especially on prime lens), and worst when you press the shutter, someone decide to walk pass you or the model look away, etc. So, I'd say most important at these kind of situation is first, get the picture.

My 2 shutter clicks.
Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 11:53 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 4 2011, 11:05 AM)
sure?? D3100 taking video can spoil one me?
I mean it is D3100 functionality.
how come if we use it's functionality it can spoil faster?
it's just not making any sense for me  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif
it's like you have printer which can do scanning. but the sales man said (if you use scanning it can reduce the printer lifespan. IMHO it's not making any sense for big company to give functionality which will reduce the lifespan of the thing)
*
The reasoning behind is the heat generated and the long exposure or shutter being open. I'm not sure about the details or truth, but if you want to buy a product which have this feature yet don't want to use it, then I don't get the idea, might as well get one without video. Of course, it also doesn't mean must use, one could simply get it for the new technology sensor/etc. What I'm trying to say is, don't worry too much, if worry then don't use loh.

If should worry, the one should be worry more I think is Canon users more than Nikon? Canon have better video capabilities and seem use more.
Plus, the new Sony camcorder is using same sensor as the NEX camera, and its being used mainly for video.

As for company giving functionailty which will reduce lifespan or not; its hard to say, one thing to remember, business will not make something that last forever, but usually they will give some warning or disclaimer in the manual that using certain feature will reduce its lifespan or wear faster or something like that.

Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 12:03 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(wp188 @ Jan 4 2011, 11:16 AM)
I took at least 10shots of her,not satisfied with most of them
*
So no worries, its not easy to even capture the right moment/shot at such situation (especially if you're on prime lens), so most importantly is to get the picture first thumbup.gif
Just like capturing babies or kids, you'll be happy enough to be able to get the right shot, the right moment, its more important than any framing, rules of thirds, etc. If you miss it, you'll regret you didn't act fast enough and the moment might not return to you. similarly in events, where capturing the moment is more important.

It depends on the situation, if possible, we try to get the framing/composition/etc right and make the picture more interesting.

Most important is still whether you like the shot, and if you're shooting for people/customer, make sure they like it and happy with it, photography is not all about rules, its an art, creativiy. Enjoy the process of learning, photographing, etc.

My 2 shutter clicks.
Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 12:10 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 4 2011, 12:01 PM)
Sorry my explanation was wrong. my bad!  blush.gif
anyway got question over here. isn't all DSLR camera will do a long exposure when it come to video?
is it only d3100 problem or DSLR w/ video capability problem?
*
This statement already exist before D3100. Its not something new.
Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 12:46 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 4 2011, 12:31 PM)
blush.gif  blush.gif sorry I just know that.
No worries, just sharing information. The hype started when video was first introduce to dSLR. Well, it's normal thing for people to question.
Just like tiptronic transmission was introduce to automatics, people questions whether using the tiptronic will reduce the lifespan of the gearbox. It's normal to wonder/question/ have doubts, and as normal humans, its normal to have many sorts of explanation from personal common sense/logic and reasoning why its not good without understanding or knowing the actual answer.(Just like you show a picture that have someone's reflection/etc, you'll get tons of different explanation from people who don't understand the how it works,so come out ghost, this and that. thumbup.gif
Ironically, human believes easily (especially lies tongue.gif )

Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 03:40 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 4 2011, 03:00 PM)
if I own d90 I will grab 50mm 1.8D.
I read a lot of fantastic review of the lens itself.
a very good value of money <- People said
feeling like testing myself. and the price is okay for testing. IMHO.
sadly I own d3100 w/o AF-motor  cry.gif  that's the reason I go for 35mm 1.8G instead
*
Really? Hehe
http://mansurovs.com/nikon-35mm-f1-8g-vs-50mm-f1-4g


QUOTE(Everdying @ Jan 4 2011, 03:09 PM)
im selling off my 50mm 1.8 by tonight...sticking to the 35mm 1.8...and probably get a tamron 17-50 2.8 or sigma 18-50 2.8 later.
*
The 50mm f/1.8 is cheap, worth to keep it ma for special purpose when needed.

Do share your opinion on the 17-50 f/2.8 Tamron VS 18-50mm f/2.8 Sigma.
Sigma one have MACRO 1:3.

Most reviews tends to lend towards Tamron and saying Tamron is way better. When I do simple test, can't really see much difference, except the Tammy VC version can get sharper image when handshake.
Beside, I think the Sigma focus slightly faster.

I notice when using external Flash AF Assist, the 3rd party lens tends to not focus accurately, the focus will judder as it tries to acquire focus. At first I thought what's wrong, why keep getting OOF image, but when not using external flash, it's focus spot on, after experimenting sometimes, found out the AF Assist on the external flash is distracting the focus.
Anybody has any idea on this? On my 35mm f/1.8G DX, no such problem.


Added on January 4, 2011, 3:43 pm
QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Jan 4 2011, 03:15 PM)
^
Reason? isn't prime produce more pleasant bokeh?
somehow.
*
It depends actually. The 50mm f/1.8D only have 7 aperture blades, when you stop down a little, your bokeh will not be rounded, it'll be 'hexagon' (is it?) shape, actually, same goes for the 35mm f/1.8G, but I find 35mm f/1.8G does slightly better; I've even gotten cat eyes bokeh before from Christmas tree lights.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 4 2011, 03:43 PM
Andy214
post Jan 4 2011, 05:03 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,308 posts

Joined: Nov 2004


QUOTE(celciuz @ Jan 4 2011, 04:30 PM)
Cat's eye bokeh on a DX? I didn't notice cat's eye bokeh on my 85 and 70200 on D90. sad.gif

But on FX, it appears at almost every light source located at the edge of the frame.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


*
Mine also at the edge only, the centre one is rounded. I didn't notice until I zoom in since those christmas tree lights is small and so many of them, hehe.

3 Pages  1 2 3 >Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0401sec    0.77    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 12th December 2025 - 02:03 PM