@ ayiesz

A contact of mine was telling about some special lamps to help improve the ecosystem and growth of the aquatic species like fishes, shrimps. crabs and other aquatic algae or plants.

got many different types - five types,

1. improve the color of the aquarium species
2. growth of the fishes
3. mature and breeding processes of a fish
4. growth of shrimp nurseries
and
5. growth of crab nurseries

they come in either E27 / T5 type (~< 2feet long). The brigtness also got many range for the E27 = >550Lm / >750Lm / 1050Lm and T5 = 350Lm to 1800Lm

anyone wanna try this out I can try to consoloditae and tehn ask them for pricing. then see how it goes from here.

let me ask and revert back.

hi guys,

anyone interested in Warm White . White LED waterproof (IP65) - so no worries about water splashing on the LED . Its longer lasting and super bright compared to whats sold anywhere outside.

For comparison IKEA Ledberg (Warm white) 0.75m is selling for RM45 (their LED is halve of mine - 30LED per meter).

Mine is EPOXY coated hence (IP65) and have DOUBLE the amount of LED - 60LED / 1 meter *you can cut this to any length you desire too

I am also selling for RM45/meter Warm White (minus RM5 if you have your own 12V adaptor). If you buy at 2meter lenght = RM88

So for the same price, you get twice the brighness and also Waterproof (IP65) so your fishes are safe!

(SPECIAL)
For those that want to do color changing effect on their aquarium please PM me your tank size so i can propose. It will look very nice with you able to use a wireless RF remote tochange the effect and color of your aquarium.

Looking forward to hear from you guys.

hi weijie,

I only know the color temperature which is as follows:-

White: 6000 - 7000K
Warm White: 3000 - 4000K

I am referring to "http://www.diodeled.com/products-view.php?id=17" FLUID VIEW Waterproof Strip Light, it seems that that is similar to mine ...
mine consumes 4.8W/meter so 1.44W/feet. We are using the SMD type of LED so i believe the spectrum should be able to penetrate 2ft with no issue.


This is roughly how it looks like:-


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Hi ciohbu, yes you are very smart and correct. To make color change need a controller box. Got two types IR and Wireless RF (like autogate remote). I personally prefer the RF type so no need to point direct at receiver. Can control anywhere from up to 30m.

nowadays SMD LEDS are much brighter than those old times DIP LEDs.



bryan217 - you got picture of your fluid light ah? I am curious to find out more about this and can tell me how much it cost. I suspect it must be IP68 where u can submerse into the water.

This post has been edited by chpteh: Jul 15 2011, 10:26 PM

hi weijie,

i think for the 3528 cannot close to 10,000k.

Need to use another type LED 5050 which has 3 times more light output (~360 lumens) compared to the 3528 (Power = 7.2W/meter) so it has more lumens per wattage compared to the 3528 (~120 lumens).

The 5050 Looks like this and price also around RM15/meter extra from the previous 3528.

picture (for 5050 epoxy + rubber tubing = IP68)



ie. IP68 rated 5050 (1 meter) white (high brightness) = RM60/-

1 meter strip contains 30 pieces of this 5050 LEDs. Also do note that this is a special range with Higher brightness which should give you the 10,000k.

hi weijie,

yes correct IP65 has 60 pcs of 3528LEDS
and IP68 hs 30pcs of 5050LEDS

the main difference is that 3528 has 1 diode versus 5050 which contain 3 diodes


regarding Metal Halide (MH), i believe there is a ballast involved and that a start up time (where a minimum amount of time typically 5mins is required for it to reach peak output) and cooling time is required between restart (typically around 10mins)

This is the first difference comparing with LED whereby it does not exhibit this delay. So lets assume there was a momentary power interruption, the LED will respond instantaneously and resume normal operation immediately.

The other major difference is the lifespand of the bulbs for MH is rated at 20,000 hours and for LED is 50,000 hours. Looking more into this, we must understand that the MH degrades over time way before its rated 20,000 hours which gives you less luminous output (meaning actual brightness) unlike LED which maintains its lumens up to 50,000hours before dropping off to 70% of the original rating. Thus the 'color shift' problem can be avoided.

Another factor is HEAT, MH radiates heat towards the aquarium whereas LED do emit heat (from the rear heatsink) but it radiated backward. hence the LED lights themselves do not project forward any heat. An if any, it is actually quite negligible from the low wattage it consumes.


There is also a discussion about how LEDS produces more Photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) per watt. PAR is the measurement of light wave that is withing the range of 400-700nm (which is the response curve for photosynthesis effect). Therefore in short higher PAR equals more growth out of photosynthesis corals.


Just started to introduce the LED lighting for Aquariums so would you like to be my premiere customer? hehe


(just a though)
I was also reading in the net that some mix typically blue + white lights (depending on lifeforms like octopus etc...)
In that case you may also consider putting a RGB color changing LED Strip which allows you to change the color of the strip via a remote control. So the layout is going to be something like this i suppose

(white) + (RGB) + (white) + (RGB)....... (can scale depending on the requirements and width of the tank)



mathematics time;
as per the calculation w/L, i think is best we just look at the lumens alone.

for the 5050 LED (1 meter length = 30 piece LED)

and one (1) piece 5050 can generate 360 lumens

therefore,
1 meter = 30 piece 5050 LED = 30 x 360 lumens = 10,800 lumens (sounds correct bo?)

thus if more lumens is required per meter run, we can also opt for the 60pcs LED / meter which should give you >20,000 lumens

Hi Weijie,

okie dokie ... no worries. Best to study and understand deeper and If you got any question pertaining to LED feel free to ask me

talking to you really make me more interested liao .. haha ... i browsed many hobbyist custom-made their LED lighting using Acrylic as top (which also act as a cover). To those that are interested, maybe we can explore this customization process together.

something like this ... for reference

yes i was just mentioning to a forumer about this. Plants do thrive on blue light but actually is more of the wavelenght of the blue light. WYSInWYG - what you see (humans eyes) is not what you get.

we need to look for an actual like that emits around 450nm

and

coincidentally, White LED (which i was talking about earlier) does contain blue light around that region maybe (470nm) - thus you may want to consider trying LEDS instead. I am bringing in a waterproof type flexible LED Strips with high brightness output for this purpose. whats the dimension of your tank.

ya what ciohbu says is absolutely correct. a balanced eco system is the best solution.

forgot to mention also LED doesnt emit UV too so you wont get a bleaching effect on the corals. (as compared to Metal Halides)

haha yes not obliged, but i think it will also benefit your aquatic vegetation too.

got other benefits also la ... other considerations like

- lifespan of bulb resulting in color shift in spectrum (LED spectrum is very specific within range thats suitable for PAR)
- generated heat (and equipmet required to cool)
- Electricity costs
- for those enviromental enthusiast can talk about 'carbon footprints' too ..
-