Any tips how to drive competitively without Traction Control & ABS?

Some cars esp mid engines wheel spin too easily without Traction Control, even when the corner is wide and have alot of space i can't fully utilize the space as the wheel spins way too early.

Also without ABS the car tend to jerk one side like using E-Brakes during braking which is abit too exagerated.

Is there a standard rule of thumb for setting the Aerodynamics & Suspensions so we can fine tune from there? Good examples appreciated.

Can you list out 3 typical suspension setups including LSD for FF, 4WD & MR cars? It'd be much easier to tune if i have an idea of standard settings. I'm confused with the description of the LSD settings. I though higher LSD less understeer?

I know more downforce means more grip but less top speed, but normally what's the typical value to put? Do you put same amount on both front & back?

Yes but still a standard setup would be easier to tune, since beginners like me don't really know what setting is considered hard, soft, too high or too low, having a typical setup makes it easier since i can just hover the settings around those numbers.

For the antiroll bar, if the car is oversteering and you up the front, lower the rear, doesn't it mean the rear will roll further resulting further oversteer as rear break loose?

Just curious why can't Comfort Sports tyre handle 250HP? I believe real cars in the market are also using Comfort Tyres, which i'm curious how realistic are the tyres in the game compared to real tyres?

Well shows like Best Motoring & Top Gear race stock cars around with, most of the time stock tyres. If real tyres really act like how GT5 made them to be, mostly Comfort Hards, there won't be anymore Top Gear & Best Motoring series. Even though the drivers in the show are pros, the way we drive in GT5 also like pros.

The Lotus in Top Gear Race slips & spins like mad without any upgrades and i think they should be stock. Totally undrivable without assist on.

Just wondering do each of us has an individual online code (the one on left top corner or it's random), if so maybe you guys can play with me.

I prefer settings closer to real life old skool japanese cars so maybe:

1.200-320hp
2.comfort sports -> sport hard

something like that. just for fun.

I know above setting probably not interesting compared to the tournament settings.

So it's not possible to have a permanent id or number for hosting online game?

Is there an easy way to invite people, or manually typing in the number's the only way?

Man lots of games have this one click function to invite friends.

Is the clutch on G25 & G27 pressure sensitive or it's either on/off? Would be easier to throttle control with a clutch balance.

Anyone did or planning to do those endurance race? I wonder how fun could it be? 24hrs of your real life time, all on your own (unless you trust other players) instead of driver swap with B-Spepc Bob like real race.

We should organize an 100 lap endurance every now & then just for fun.

This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 10 2011, 01:47 PM

I'm getting abit confused with the LSD settings, can someone clarify regarding:

1.Initial
2.Acceleration
3.Braking

Higher value means Stronger the LSD setting, or higher the difference between 2 wheels allowed (meaning lower value LSD kick in earlier)?

Can someone give example of settings for:

FF car want more oversteer.

FR car want more understeer.

All this while I've been setting the FR cars on high values as I though it will make it less wheel spin.

i don't have the Apex book, can just give brief explanation here?

Initial Torque, lower or higher LSD functions more?
Acceleration, lower or higher LSD works harder?
Braking, lower or higher LSD works harder?

In order for oversteer/understeer which parameters need to be high/low?

Is there really bad making the ride height close to min? I see most guides stop at -10 to -15 when they can go -25 to -30. I though lower the better, at least on race tracks, unless the bottom touches the ground?

And most players set the spring rate between 7 to 12 which is quite low compare to max allowed.

Also am curious because i hear for understeer/oversteer in real life you only need to work on either the camber or toe, but in GT5 it seems we have to work on both?

I like to set the ride low, but the lower the height the stronger the spring rate needs to be, too strong and the car starts to sway away in uneven surface, from the menu description it says stronger spring rate needs softer rollbars, i'm not too sure how roll bar effects the car as a whole other than oversteer & understeer, sometimes i find roll bar too stiff it tends to roll more over.

There's a few cars i'm still having problem with even after setting LSD high up and rear toe to high +ve, like Silvia 240RS, RUF Yellow Bird (this car is impossible...), Blitz Skyline R34, Lotus 119R.

The max i go for road cars are sports soft, if go racing it becomes less realistic, only during races where other AI use race tyres i will switch to one.

Most of my MR & RR have rear cambers pretty high, 0.35 to 0.40. while front is around -25.

Toe in front i usually put 2.0-2.5 while back is most of the time 0.

Even with LSD max the Yellowbird still spins like mad.

Can someone explain the effects of front/rear spring rate, damping extension & compression relative to understeer/oversteer?

I hear the higher you set the front than the rear car become more understeer while setting back lower than front makes it more oversteer.

But I don't really understand. As the lower the rear extension is set, the more weight transfer to the outside of the car, while lower the rear compression, further weight is transfered to the outside rear wheel as it compress more, thus leaving the ouside wheel having more weight than the inside, which in turns create wheel spin thus oversteer, but if follow guide turning rear low makes it understeer instead.