Wow! This one is one hell of a fire figure double 8.....hellfire8888

Although it looks bit blurry but the atmosphere shows the action with some motion. Its still a nice shot though..

Yes the 20mm is fast but sometimes the focus is not spot on. I find using my manual focus 35mm f1.4 get less errors and sometimes faster focus especially in low light conditions.
And yes i use single spot focus all the time. The FOV for the 20mm is a bit wide making the focusing spot a bit large for spot on focus of smaller objects further away. There r ways round this like activating manual focus after AF. Then again to view this fine tuned on the LCD is tricky so a EVF is a must.

This post has been edited by nutrinos: Dec 18 2010, 08:35 AM

I see the aperture scale 16/8/4:4/8/16 looks narrow. I would luv to see the hyperfocal scale set at infinity on the F16 mark (right side). Could you post a pic on this

This post has been edited by nutrinos: Dec 19 2010, 03:03 PM

Looks like a juvenile bird so will not fly off instantly.

Any prizes for guessing correctly?

This post has been edited by nutrinos: Dec 26 2010, 04:53 PM

Next time we will have instant HDR on our cameras and we dont have to worry about Dynamic range

On the EPL1, can anybody enlighten me what or how are your settings Optimised to for Noise Reduction and Noise Filter? Much appreciated.

Here is something i found on the web:

How does the E-PL1 combat noise commonly found at high ISOs?

Digital cameras vary the light sensitivity of the image sensor by varying the gain voltage applied to the sensor, much like turning up the volume on a stereo. When the gain voltage is increased, as it is when shooting with higher ISOs, the sensor becomes hot. Hot pixels perform differently under extreme conditions. The result is a graininess known as “noise.”

Noise occurs whenever sufficient heat has built up on the image sensor. Therefore, it can also be seen in images with long exposures, such as night photographs, due to the additional heat generated by charging the sensor for an extended period of time. All digital cameras include technologies to minimize the effects of noise. The E-PL1 uses a sensor that dramatically decreases noise. In addition, it combats noise with two methods: NOISE FILTER and NOISE REDUCTION.

The NOISE FILTER function is found in the menu. It has four options: OFF, LOW, STANDARD and HIGH. The majority of digital cameras have a default noise filter that is always on. Some photographers feel that this reduces detail, so Olympus has included the option to not use a noise filter at all.

If NOISE FILTER is set to OFF, it is recommended to set the SHARPNESS setting to –2. If SHARPNESS is set to 0 it may exaggerate the noise when no noise filtering is being applied.

The NOISE REDUCTION function can also be enabled from the menu. After the first exposure, the camera makes a second exposure of equal length with the shutter closed. It then, in effect, overlays the two images, finds the hot pixels in the second image (essentially, any pixels that aren't black) and deletes the corresponding pixels from the first image. This doubles the shooting time. If the first exposure is 12 minutes 30 seconds, the second, black exposure will also be 12 minutes 30 seconds for a total exposure time of 25 minutes.

OK, thats some thought to tinkle about...

This strikes me:
If NOISE FILTER is set to OFF, it is recommended to set the SHARPNESS setting to –2. If SHARPNESS is set to 0 it may exaggerate the noise when no noise filtering is being applied.

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Added on February 7, 2011, 3:50 pmMe a jpeg too. Read somewhere that Oly Jpegs r as good as raw or is it the other way round. Tweaking raw has not much advantage as someone pointed.

This post has been edited by nutrinos: Feb 7 2011, 03:50 PM

Got quote from this link about Gradation;

The gradation feature takes advantage of Olympus' Shadow Adjustment Technology. The normal option is your standard automatic contrast feature. Auto gradation breaks the image down into smaller segments, and adjusts the contrast for each of those areas, which should result in better detail in shadow and highlight areas. The high key option emphasizes the highlights (big time, in the example below), while low key does just the opposite. Here you can see all four of the gradation options in action:

Link is here;

http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/olympus/...view/using#grad


It seems like by using Auto Gradation, Highlight clipping can be controlled...Hmmm

Thx so much for the hints. I am now setting up a custom setting base on these parameters, C -1, S -1, Grad -Normal, RGB -0. Noise filter -low, Noise Reduction -On (optional since it only works in shots 2sec below). So far shots at 1000 iso looks pretty good

Look here, EPL2 and kit lens shipped to Msia for US 601.00
Anybody tried this

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7499..._W_14_42mm.html

Price quoted is inclusive of UPS Worldwide saver @US$ 52.43

Think u shoukld go for the Oly FL36. It does TTL remote flash