Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 The Official Nikon Discussion thread V1, All under one roof !

views
     
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 04:11 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(wp188 @ Nov 18 2010, 11:18 AM)
Mind to share how u guys learn?
More outdoor shooting?
Research?
Magazine?
*
i never go for courses also..I just buy magazine everymonth and learn from there..sometimes may search from internet.

However, you need to keep on practice and practice..dont hide your machine inside drawer..

but til now...i consider myself half tank only...: (
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 04:20 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
After D7000, now is time to save some money for lense..my next target is Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR DI-II VC (Vibration Compensation).

Or you guys have better opinion?? which lense shd i first buy for my D7000?

I think is just nice and better than the stock lense of D7000.

Below is the link:

http://shashinki.com/shop/tamron-1750mm-di...facturers_id=41
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 08:03 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(JasonSky @ Nov 18 2010, 08:24 AM)
D3000 is being replaced by D3100 - Get that instead smile.gif
*
I am selling my D3000...8 months old..
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 08:32 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Nov 18 2010, 06:58 PM)
Huh.... I'm aiming to get one, since u say not good, then wat std zoom is good? Don tell me Nikkor's 4k+ 17-55, which is unreachable for me
*
17-55mm, 2.8g Tamron..cost about RM1600..i think is ok...better than normal kit lens!

actually...i will prefer 18-200, F2.8..dont know where can find...but i believe shd be far more expensive...
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 10:29 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(vexus @ Nov 18 2010, 09:57 PM)
just found out at mines d7000 body rm3999. I wonder is it cheap?
*
I just bought mine too..two days ago..mm..you could get cheaper..Rm3800 can get..
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 11:25 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
hey! help..what is the best method if I want to take group photo in a restaurant?? I really have problem using AF-S,C..really dont know which one to use...in the group photo, so many faces..how to aim at everybody???

This saturday will have dinner with my wife family..please guide me abit..
ccf1286
post Nov 18 2010, 11:49 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(General_Nic @ Nov 18 2010, 11:43 PM)
Af-s or af-c has ntg to do wif this
Af area mode its d 1 dat matters, bt it doesnt make any difference if u know how
Use smaller aperture, eg f6.3 to f8
If wanna use bigger aperture, u have to make sure everybd in d group stand in straight line
Folo these steps u no nid worry focus where, jz focus d middle of d frame, or face of d middle person
*
Thanks for the advice..if I using F8, then i have to turn the ISO higher right? (unless i have a flashgun)..
ccf1286
post Nov 19 2010, 02:27 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(ronaldlee007 @ Nov 19 2010, 11:48 AM)
Yeah, in group photo F8 is good enough. Turn up ISO is one method but result in less quality. Best is to use the flash. Either bounce or direct with difuse.
If you choose to lower the shutter speed, there is high chance some of the member in the photo may blurred due to movement. Unless you manage ask them to stand still. But usually, in group photo, there will be a lot of movement due to fun pose etc.


Added on November 19, 2010, 11:56 am

I think, it's best you sent to Nikon. It's not suppose to be that loud.
*
if i use flash gun..then my ISO shd set to 100? to avoid over expose?
ccf1286
post Nov 19 2010, 03:30 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(fabianz03 @ Nov 19 2010, 03:25 PM)
Tested D7000 today. It totally raped me.  tongue.gif
*
rape you mean?? good or not good?
ccf1286
post Nov 19 2010, 04:09 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Nov 19 2010, 03:46 PM)
I have D3100 body, and pretty much falling in love with it.
D3100 is a DX model with no focus motor build in the body itself.

Currently I only have kit lens which is 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6G and I am thinking to buy a prime lens for my daily use.

In fact I am confuse on what lens should I buy.
either AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G or AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G
I read on the reviews. Both are giving an amazing and stunning picture as the result. but I am curious on which one should I go for.

Since AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G prince is 2.3X of AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G price, I need a strong justification on choosing AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G. rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

I will use the lens for portrait.
and I heard from my friend that AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G lens will eventually become 52mm on my D3100 body, is it true??
Is there is any 3rd party recommended lens to substitute this two lenses? of course affordable as well. drool.gif

any advantage or disadvantage on choosing one over the other lens??

Please help me on this decision making NIKON sifus.
*
I using AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G...result..excellent! 50mm...u need to stand far from object...
ccf1286
post Nov 20 2010, 03:05 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
guys...i decided to take Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR DI-II VC , as the prime lense for my new D7000...please advice.
ccf1286
post Nov 20 2010, 03:56 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(zellleonhart @ Nov 20 2010, 03:07 PM)
You mean you take tamron 17-50 VC as your PRIME for your D7000, or u mean you take 17-50 as zoom, then u asking for our advice for another prime?

17-50mm is not a prime yo..
*
Sorry...yushin was right...primary lens..which is the best choice (budget) for my new mmachine D7k. tamron17-50..is this the good choice?
ccf1286
post Nov 21 2010, 11:18 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
Guys...First camera DSLR i own is D3000...now i own D7000, one thing I found is that, there is not much different btw both of them..especially when I shoot in the morning. The sharpness still the same! Even at night, I set to ISO 1600, the noise started to see..

Obvious different that can be feel is, the shutter speed...aii....

Please advice..
ccf1286
post Nov 21 2010, 03:11 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(adriancs @ Nov 21 2010, 11:21 AM)
Look back and think about what I told you before about the high ISO and all about the D7000. Seems like you didn't get it then, and you still don't get it now.

There is no difference except in the lab tests.

Spam some of my pics. Are the technically perfect, no. Zero noise, no. Very very sharp, no. But to me they mean something. Good subjects, good colours to me. Good enough to tell stories to the viewer, I think so.

hi ..thanks for your reply. I think i got your message and what you trying to reach me.

For this moment, I will fully utilize all the fn key of D7k and get some quality photo.

Thanks...


Added on November 21, 2010, 3:13 pm
QUOTE(adriancs @ Nov 21 2010, 02:17 PM)
You're right. Its not. Not the only one though.


Added on November 21, 2010, 2:18 pm

You're right too. More than 2 are not from a large sensor.


Added on November 21, 2010, 2:29 pm
1. Settings in the head. Previsualize picture in mind.
2. Compose, include subject in frame and exclude distractions. Take into account subject to background relation, foreground objects, depth of field and environmental conditions.
3. Bring camera up to eye. Zoom to frame. Wait for the elements to fall into place.
4. Meter off the correct Zone V area. Over or underexpose Zone V for dynamic range. Dial exposure in.
5. Focus or tap the AF to lock in focus. Reframe if you need to focus off the center AF point.
6. Lock shoulders and elbows in close to your body. Brace the camera against your face. Breathe in, breathe out... hold... squeeze the shutter release.
7. There. Made your good picture.
8. Post process to move back Zone V to correct exposure. Adjust contrast, white and black points. Adjust colour saturation. Apply some sharpening if needed.

Oh. And be there at the right moment. And bring your camera. Any camera will do.
*
what is Zone V?


Added on November 21, 2010, 3:15 pm
QUOTE(fcuk90 @ Nov 21 2010, 01:18 PM)
having 2 body ? . sell off the d3000 then laugh.gif
*
yeah, wana sell...waiting for buyer...

This post has been edited by ccf1286: Nov 21 2010, 03:15 PM
ccf1286
post Nov 21 2010, 10:49 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(adriancs @ Nov 21 2010, 04:34 PM)


You still don't get it. Its not about playing with the camera. The camera is a solution to the problem. The problem is composing the picture in your mind. Its about making the picture in your mind, then making the camera capture it. You seem to be having problems with low light, and like I said earlier, your solution does not lie with the camera. In good light, all cameras and most lenses are equal. A 18-55 kit lens at 50mm and f/11 will not be much different from a 50/1.4 at f/11 in good light. Likewise a 34/1.4 35/1.8 or a kit lens at 35mm and all set to f/8 or f/11 will give same results.

Zone V is the neutral "correct" exposure region. Typically most cameras can do roughly about 3 stops over and 3 stops under, giving you about 7 stops dynamic range. Some better cameras may be better giving you about 9 stops dynamic range. For more info on the zone system, see here: Zone System

Adrian, Composition...yes..it is very important. It is very hard to take good photo that can "tell story". Imagination is playing important role at here. You are absolutely right. People taking photo is to shoot down something for memory. However, good photo will only attract people which consist of "story" and "photo quality"

To come out a quality photo, you need a camera to gain what you want. Good light condition, no problem with anykind of camera and lens.

You are right, camera is a solution to problem..and again, you were telling the right point..my problem is getting good shot in low light condition....


ccf1286
post Nov 22 2010, 01:27 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(Isepunye @ Nov 21 2010, 11:26 PM)
went tonikon alamanda. their manager abit not friendly. his worker is ok. abit hard to try lens. but overall im dissapointed with the shop. i tot it wud be like BTS one but this is more to regular shop only...

isnt this lens make u very nice portrait? damn
user posted image
*
I think this photo is little too bright..
ccf1286
post Nov 23 2010, 06:02 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
1)I currently using Nissin Di622 for my D7k. Actually, I wondering, if I go for new one, Nikon SB 600, will it more helpful??..why we need expensive flashgun?

2) If i want to put my flashgun (Di622) near to subject (to create some effect), how can make the gun flash without using the attached pop up flash???

It could be very simple question, but, i really dont know how to make it.
ccf1286
post Nov 23 2010, 06:24 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(celciuz @ Nov 23 2010, 06:14 PM)
1) More accurate TTL if you go for SB600. Plus you can make use of the CLS function.

2) Get a radio trigger for this if you won't want to use the pop up as trigger.
*
Radio trigger, can you intro me a brand? budget one will do.

CLS function..what is that?

In term of power..are they different?
ccf1286
post Nov 23 2010, 08:15 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
QUOTE(adriancs @ Nov 23 2010, 06:38 PM)
The Nikon flashes are better built, and have metal hotshoe mounts. Try mounting yours, hit it against the wall, and see the plastic mount break, not replaceable, and you end up having to buy a new flash. I have also seen cracked bodies and all. I abuse my Nikon flashes for years and none have fallen apart yet.

To do off-camera flash, either get one that is CLS compatible like SB600/700//800/900, or use a radio trigger. Yongnuo, Phottix and various other brands offer radio triggers. Only Nikon's own CLS and radiopoppers support full TTL off camera, for the rest you will need to use your flash in manual mode (AFAIK, correct me if I'm wrong). Downside is, Radiopoppers are not available in Malaysia AFAIK due to radio frequency regulations, and importing them on your own is technically illegal, and also they're very expensive.

Have to warn you though... going into lighting is like opening a whole new can of worms, and a whole new lot of pocket hurt.
*
If i go for SB600 (the cheapest), means, I dont need a radio trigger to light up the flash? Because it has CLS ?

In other word, I can position SB600 near to subject, and i just perhaps do some setting, without the trigger and pop up flash?

Or better i just buy a radio trigger for my Di622? which one you receon Adriance?
ccf1286
post Nov 23 2010, 08:54 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
64 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Seri Kembangan
Yesterday, I did a comparison btw D7000 and D3000.

Setting: Nikkor 55-200mm 4-5.6G, Focal Length 190mm, ISO 400, 1/2s, f9, +1.0EV, WB:Auto

This is D7000
user posted image

THis is D3000
user posted image

Can you guys see different?

2 Pages  1 2 >Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.1723sec    0.29    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 7th December 2025 - 05:03 PM