Hi all,

I'm shopping around for a used car and have discovered a few things. I didn't see any similar threads before, so I'm starting this with input from LYN forum-ers with the aim of creating a single consolidated guide for anyone buying a used car. If you think this is helpful, please chip in your experience and knowledge. Below is what I have for starters, please feel free to chip in and I will update this thread with useful info.

I've updated the guide with more info, again, please feel free to comment and I'll update it. The idea is for this to be a simple one stop guide for anyone wishing to buy/sell cars on their own (without going through used car dealers/agents).

Thanks!

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Info Needed:
1. Registration Number
2. Engine Number
3. Chassis Number

Basic Checks:
1. Check registration number for PDRM and JPJ blacklists
2. Check for any existing POLIS SAMAN - sms to 32728 (DAPAT) in this format "POLIS SAMAN <REG_NUMBER> <email>", e.g. "POLIS SAMAN ABC1234 myemail@domain.com" - based on feedbacks from others, it seems that Polis Saman will go after previous owner, not current owner but I'm not sure. Please double check yourself. Also look at the type of saman the previous owner has, e.g. speeding/indiscriminate parking should be small matter, but there are some which are more serious, e.g. I've seen some cars with "T/DAPAT KAWAL SEMASA PANDU" saman. Might indicate an accident before...
3. For market car price, check on newspaper and internet ads for other asking prices. Note that dealer prices will always be higher than individual seller prices.
3a. If you don't mind paying RM10, check via ISM Carprices website for an indicative price.
3b. If you don't mind paying RM15, check via Red Book MY for an indicative price.
3c. For free, check via Autoclaims.com.my for an indicative price.
3d. Check Ambank's refinancing wizard to see estimated market value.
3e. All the above will indicate rough market value. Actual prices may be higher or lower depending on condition of car.
4. For a fee of RM18, to check if car was reported stolen or declared as total loss before, use this ISM Car Check website . This report will contain the engine number, chassis number as well, so verify this against the registration card and actual numbers on the car.

Technical/Car Viewing Checks:
Note: For all these checks, you can ask the seller first then only run the checks, that way you can gauge how honest the seller is. But please do it nicely and don't end up in an argument or fight, walk away and leave if seller is not friendly. It's their loss, not yours - no matter how 'nice' the car seems to be.

1. Ask seller if the tyres have been changed before and if the reason given does not match the date code on the tyres, be wary. Check date code on car tyres, which is in the form of WWYY, e.g. 4208 - manufactured on week 42 of year 2008.
2. Check that the chassis number and engine number matches what is listed in the actual copy of registration card (not photocopy). Also verify the other details are correct (engine CC, colour)
3. Check for any rust bubbles on rooftop/bonnet.
4. Bring along a small piece of magnet. On any part of the car that looks out of alignment or just looks funny, check if the magnet will stick to the car body. If it doesn't then that part may have suffered extensive damage and fillers have been used. PLEASE check with the owner BEFORE sticking magnets all over their car!!
5. Bring the car to a trusted mechanic for a pre-sale check.
6. Bring the car to AAM pre-buying inspection check (anyone used this service before? is it useful?)
7. During test drive, turn off the CD player/sound system, wind down the windows if possible and listen for any weird sounds:
7a. Ensure that the car maintains a straight path and does not pull to left or right
7b. For automatics, gear change should be smooth. Check all gears, 1-2-3-D-R.
7c. Check that there are no cars behind, then try hard braking and make sure the car doesn't sway/pull to either direction.
7d. Turn the steering full lock right and left, and listen out for any sounds as you drive the car (CV joint/boot might be KO if you hear sounds)
7e. Visually inspect all 4 tyres wear, make sure they are evenly wearing down and not worn only on inner or outer part of the tyre.


Final Transaction:
DISCLAIMER: This is just a suggestion, please exercise caution and also consult professionals/JPJ/PUSPAKOM for any clarification.
1. Once agreed to buy/sell, have a written document that indicates the car registration number, chassis/engine number (if desired), owner's name/IC/address (name must match registration card), and buyer's name/IC/address and agreed price. Make 2 copies, one for seller, one for buyer. Search internet for sample letters, I'm not sure if this letter has any legal implication, but it's just an agreement between buyer/seller to document the date/details/price of the car to avoid any misunderstanding. Buyer and seller should have one copy each, and both must sign to indicate agreement.
2. If any deposit is paid, ensure that cheque is written to owner's name. Cheque number should be indicated on the agreement.
3. If any bank draft if purchased, ensure that it's to the owner's name. Banker's Cheque number should be indicated on the agreement.

At Puspakom/before going to JPJ:
4. After deposit is paid, bring the car to nearest puspakom for inspection. Bring the original JPJ registration card. Follow the queue, pay RM30 at the counter - handover the registration card, and get your receipt. After inspection is done (and passed), you will get a B5 document from Puspakom. This document is required for JPJ ownership transfer. Make a photocopy of it if you want for own reference.
4a. Note: To protect the buyer, buyer can insist on bringing the car to Puspakom (together with seller if seller does not want to handover car to buyer) to perform another inspection if it already has been done before. Sometimes a car may already have Puspakom inspection done, but you know how it is in our country.... so pay RM30 and get a good peace of mind. You can also do a 10 point check at Puspakom for RM50 at the same time (so total RM80).
5. Once inspection is done and passed, prepare the balance payment for seller (banker's cheque to be safe to buyer and seller), and seller needs to fill in the JPJ transfer forms if he/she is not going to go to JPJ together.
6. Refer to JPJ website - download these forms (total 1 x TM-1, 2 x JPJ K3, 1 x TM-AB)
6a. Borang Senarai Semak TM-1 (Pind. 2/2009); TM-1
6b. 2 salinan JPJK3 yang telah diisi dengan lengkap dan ditandatangani oleh pemilik berdaftar dan pemilik baru; Borang JPJ K3 -> seller must complete Section A, and SIGN on both copies of the form!
6c. If seller is not going to JPJ together, Salinan dokumen pengenalan identiti pemilik berdaftar dan pemilik baru menggunakan TM-AB. Seller needs to make photocopies of his I/C, stick it to this form, then get a commissioner of oath to certify (I think RM6 or so). If buyer is doing the transfer, buyer does not need this.
7. Once seller has filled & signed 2 copies of JPJ K3 and TM-AB, then buyer can handover balance payment. Before these forms are done, or Puspakom inspection not done, please DO NOT MAKE ANY FURTHER PAYMENTS other than the initial deposit (RM500 to RM1000? Depends on the car and agreement between buyer/seller).

At JPJ:
8. Before ownership transfer, you need to buy insurance. Make sure this is done, or you can get it from various agents at JPJ offices. For example, there is a JPJ in Maju Junction, and many insurance agents are there. You need to have an e-covernote before you can transfer.
9. Ensure that buyer fills in section B of JPJ K3. For insurance, you can just indicate the insurance company, no need to fill in the cover note number as JPJ can check online. Anything unclear, ask JPJ queue number counter, they are very helpful (at least the on in Maju Junction is):
10. Go to JPJ counter, get a queue number. Ensure that you have these documents:
10a. total 1 x TM-1, 2 x JPJ K3, 1 x TM-AB
10b. Original JPJ registration card
10c. If buyer doing transfer, obviously original I/C of buyer
11. Wait for your turn. Once your number is called, go to counter and tell them you want to perform ownership transfer. Give them the TM-1, JPJ K3, TM-AB of seller, buyer's original I/C and RM100. RM100 is for the JPJ ownership transfer fee.
12. It will take about 5 minutes or so, once done, you will get back the original registration card, with your name listed as the new owner.

That's it, congratulations and you're now the legal owner of this car!
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Mar 23 2011, 05:29 PM

How about bringing the car to workshop for checkup before purchase?

yes, this is a good idea, but i think it's quite subjective to how people want to do it. will sellers allow you to bring the car to workshop? or will seller bring the car? or will you bring the mechanic over? anyway, updated the first post with this info. thanks!

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 31 2010, 10:06 PM

I think getting a mechanic to look at it is money well-spent. Especially something as expensive as a car.

I got my used car to be checked by a professional. He gave me a full report with pictures and an estimate price for the car and repairs. I managed to get my seller to do the repairs and even get the price lower (although not much cos the car was in very good condition).

The report found stuff which I could have never known. There was some tire damage and a broken seal on the drivetrain which can only be seen if you have a car lift. Saved me a couple hundred bucks of repair (borne by the seller) which was exactly what I paid the mechanic for his inspection.

If the seller doesn't agree with the checkup, just walk away. It means he has something to hide. There are always more cars for sale. Furthermore, the seller can always tag along to the workshop.

this is good - any chance you can provide more info on this? nice that he provided photos even.... how much did it cost (for what car if you don't mind) and any contact details? how did you get the seller to send the car to him?

Actually, this was my experience when I looked for a car in Germany.

I test drove the car and gave it a quick look. I then told the seller I need a couple more days and will engage my mechanic.

I then engaged the services of www.diepruefer.de which is a website that provides vehicle inspections and evaluations in Germany.

I just had to include some details of the car into the website, and then pay 150EUR. The website will give the task to a nearby specialist and he will then call the seller for vehicle inspection appointment.

My seller works at a dealership so he used the car lift provided there. (If there is no car lift available, the specialist will drive the car to a workshop which has one, the specialist will arrange for it. The seller agreed on this beforehand, but only if he is accompanying the car).

The specialist then provided me his report the next day via email. The seller has no access to this information.

I have an example of the inspection attached taken from the website (not my car due to privacy reasons).

I then called the seller informing him of the faults that have been found and if he is willing to repair it before I agree to purchase the car. He said OK and then I proceeded to discuss pricing. I managed to bring it down to the price the specialist was suggesting. Not much just about 1% less of what the seller wanted. But still worth it because the repairs could have cost more.

The car is a 2008 BMW 330xD sedan.

I will be taking the car on Tuesday.

This post has been edited by kelvinlym: Nov 1 2010, 05:21 AM


Attached File(s)
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wow, very impressive. i wonder if such service exist in malaysia.

guys, how to proper check whether the car got accident record before beside asking the seller directly?

bring it to the mech. they know where to check, what to check.

good workshop might be able to hide the welded joint works but just stay away from a used car with too wide gap in between; ie; door gap too big, front bonnet to fender / rear bonnet gap is obviously out of shape.

anyway; beside those stated by ts, there are lotsa' basic rule of buying a used car;
during the test drive, check if the alignment is fine(hands off the steering in straight), no swaying during hard braking, no squeaking during corner, brakes system fine with no strange sound during braking, electronic item all working, even tires wear, no jerking on gear change, no spark plug misfiring feel, no bulging hose (esp air-cond gasses hose)... and the list goes on.

thanks - updated the first post with your advice/info!

from my own experience..

first u got to know the car u're buying. for that particular make and model, search around the net, car clubs, forum or check with enthusiasts to find out any common problem for the car and how to fix it.more important if the car is not so common on the road.

there're several basic inspections u can do before buying. buying car less than 10 years old, make sure every mechanical and electrical is sound. for cars more than 10 yrs, chassis is more important than engine, because cars at this age, theres big chance the engine has done big mileage already.even theres no blue smoke at the time of buying, how long u think it gonna stay that way.if the chassis is good, then straight go for transplant.

another thing, when u spot some faults with the car, the used car dealer will promise u they'll fix it.but dont take their word for it.even they do fix it, its a total tangkap muat job.they'll just make the problem seems fixed, but actually on the surface only.when the problem comes back, then u know how bad it is.usually what they did are irreversible.for electronics, transmission, other complicated stuff, dont let them fix it.use it as a tool to cut several K's from their asking price. even some missing plastic panels, when they promise to fix it, what they'll do is actually some really nasty band-aid repair procedure using silicon and stuff.u'll cry when u see beneath the plastics panels.

no offense to car dealers, but i personally can't trust them unless it's someone i know. so the guide above is for buying from a direct owner, not dealer. if you're buying from dealer, you won't be able to diy puspakom/jpj anyway, they will do it for you for $$$.

the most important thing of buying used car is to ensure that the car's chassis is still in good shape. Everything in / on a car can be replaced / repaired, EXCEPT the chassis. So place all your energy and eyes on the chassis inspection first, then only come all other stuff like suspension, brakes, electronics etc etc.

a lot of ppl only look for faults OTHER than the chassis, and this will kill u. what do u want on a car? a perfect car with everything working but with a bent chassis or a perfect chassis car with some minor faults everywhere? it's a no brainer actually............

agreed, other than getting the car to a mechanic, how can a normal driver check the chassis? any tips?

Hi!

have a question regarding the sale of a 20 year old car... we still need to go to Puspakom for the check, right? Will they be more strict since it's an old car? Or same as per any other car?

What's the typical "fees" that a used car dealer charges? I went looking for a car and am being charged the following:

Transfer fees: RM450
Agreement fees: RM450
Inspection fees: RM200

looks fishy to me, I bought a used car earlier in the year and they only charged RM300 transfer fees, no agreement or inspection fees. Anyone know what the real fees are for a used car? I'm ready to walk away from this deal but would like to know what the common practice is.

my understanding is it must be roadworthy, i.e. you can still drive it. they check on the chassis number, engine number, glass tinting, and whether the car is joined or not (kereta potong). so i think should be ok. anyway rm30 to find out

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Added on November 29, 2010, 7:51 amtransfer fees sound like jpj - which is only RM100 if you do it yourself
inspection fees should be puspakom, which is only rm30 if you diy

not sure what agreement fees is, could be insurance? normally dealers will charge u the transfer and inspection fees, and also insurance...

just out of curiosity, what car is this?

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Added on March 23, 2011, 5:32 pmanyone want to contribute to this? otherwise i will close this thread. hopefully the info above is helpful to some who are shopping for used cars and want to go through the transaction themselves.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Mar 23 2011, 05:32 PM