You're welcome Neo-Spider - hope it helps.

Er.. i wouldnt say "confirm 4%-5%" for EPF. Guaranteed is only 2.5%
If you're the risk mgt type, U might want to consider whether U can take out from your all your EPF when 55 given that Gov usually taps EPF's funds (ie. our money) for all sorts of stuff, even tak logical ones, without our say. Thus, there may be some hazzards to EPF's "real $ available for withdrawal" and the Gov may just push that age further OR change the withdrawal to some annuity thinggy rather than lump sum when U reach retirement.

Personally, 1/3 of my net worth is tied to EPF, thus i'm taking out as much and as fast as possible to sorok into Properties (a/c2) and Mutual Funds (a/c1). The $ sorok-ed into Mutual Funds is not 100% safe from EPF's hands in my opinion, as it may just REVOKE all investments into mutual funds from tapping EPF and force a "recall".

REITs? Try here:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1993103/+102
http://mreit.reitdata.com/

BTW, pls repeat after me - Stock INVESTING, not TRADING
Just a thought 

If U mean "OK to redraw" as in "worthwhile redraw",
then in my opinion:
1. IF U have enough emergency buffer (eg. at least 6 months average living expenses if U are single income and have economic dependents, 3 months if you're married with working spouse and both earns around the same net income)

2. AND U are quite sure (80%? 90%) that ASB will get U 7.35%pa or more (5.35%pa (yr cost) +at least 2%pa extra)

3. AND your mortgage is a flexi mortgage (like SCB's Mortgage 1, Citibank's FlexiHome, Alliance's & UOB's Flexi mortgage, etc.)

THEN Yes, in my opinion it's worth the risk.

I'm curious - U stated yr HL current rate is 5.35%pa (Conventional Loan). U sure this is flexi mortgage? As in U dont get charged for any cost other than the 5.35%pa on the re-drawn amount?

In addition, 5.35%pa is kind of high though may not high enough for U to bother refinancing with other banks yet - it's about 4.2%pa to 4.5%pa these days based on my checks with SCB, Alliance & UOB for a $200K to $500K mortgage last month or early this month. Fixed rate (non flexi) ING & AIA is still around 4.85%pa

Note:
If U are taking out from EPF a/c 2 yearly for mortgage, in my opinion, better do it via monthly scheme which doesnt go directly to yr loan a/c. Thus, U have a choice.

Some ideas.
For gold, the best is:-

Physical Gold: UOB Kangaroo Nugget 1 Oz (The lowest spread rate between 3-4%, can pawn and sell back to UOB)

Paper Gold: UOB Gold Savings Account (The lowest spread rate of only 1.15%)
For *Unit Trust, recommended unit trusts are:-

Non-Syariah: Kenanga Growth Fund (One of the best performing malaysia equity fund over the years; low volatility against KLCI index, higher sharpe ratio, lower sales charge via Fundsupermart 0.88% - 2% versus Public Mutual 5.5%)

Syariah: Kenanga Syariah Growth Fund (The best Malaysia Islamic equity fund over the years; low volatility against KLCI index, higher sharpe ratio, lower sales charge via Fundsupermart 0.88% - 2% versus Public Mutual 5.5%)
Additional Suggestion:-

Invest RM27k to pay downpayment for a double storey terrace house (freehold) at Pelangi Semenyih Phase 2A, with an estimated ROI of 30 - 35% within 3-5 years (link: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...43&hl=semenyih)
* Kindly check morningstar.com for the said unit trust details

Flexi mortgage is a type of mortgage.
er.. please don't ask me to explain what a mortgage yar 

Copied & re-posted from previous - google/search functions are your friend, leverage on them
...instead of plonking my cash in any savings or FDs, better to plonk into my Flexi Mortgage as my mortgage is 4.4%pa daily rest - ie. whatever amount of extra $ i have placed in my Flexi Mortgage is considered capital repayment, thus i dont get charged 4.4%pa for that additional capital repaid amount, thus in effect "saving me" 4.4%pa. No FD gives me that % and also flexibility to take out (re-draw).

....Flexi mortgages - U can knock down the principal amount any time/any amount AND re-draw the extra payments any time / any amount via cheques/ATM/online.
When U pay extra / knock down the principal amount, say $100K, U dont pay interest on that $100K UNTIL U re-draw it
eg (simple example only, not spot-on actual mathematically same with banks).
On top of the monthly payment, i plonk in $50K additional on Jan 1
Then later, I took out $20K to buy stocks on Jan 31
a. My mortgage interest calculated from Jan 2 to Jan 30th would be less $50K *x.xx%/364.25 days (mortgage interest charged) *28 days
b. From Jan31 onwards, my mortgage interest calculated would be additional $20K *x.xx%/364.25 days (mortgage interest charged) *xx days

Inflation is another risk? how so? lower than you losing money in other investment right?

hmm.. where to get the material? is it available online?

Cause it was cost to our earning... What 10 cents can do before and now for simple comparison...?

Starting graduate with RM2.5k is consider not bad. Many people who are not working professional still below that amount. I remember my first job salary RM1200 with diploma (year 2005) and work until 3k (year 2009) only get my first car. After get a car, saving not much already.. So the conclusion is one must learn how to manage money wisely.

The expert always said what most important thing we always forget is to invest in ourselves. Read more financial books and improve financial knowledge. This is how I get started to change my mindset and keep learning everyday

er.. yeah those are the initials 
Pardon moi - got used to the terms used in LYN - DDI (direct debit instructions AKA monthly standing instructions) thus doing Dollar Cost Averaging
OR every period execute manually value cost averaging or value investing.

Ok down to the heart of the matter - where U shd do it now or later right?
Opinions / Point of View follows (not rules yar)
Simple - 1st things 1st, have U built up at least an emergency buffer / kitty of 3 months' average expenses?
eg. Say U spend $12K pa all in all, thus your average expenses pm = $1K, thus U should if possible have $3K squirrelled off somewhere safe & stable - eg. savings a/c + FD
This $ is to save one's tail in case of emergencies (no, not when U NEED that new coach bag or S3) INSTEAD OF BEING FORCED TO SELL your investment to cover tail. When one is forced to sell, it may not be the right time and one can incur losses easily.
Why?
Simple - ALL investments (excluding FD, savings a/c lar - those are generally "storage") have some sort of transaction costs, either when buying or selling or BOTH. Unless one is incredibly lucky, usually it takes time to break even then make profits.

Then after building the above OR while working on the above, checkout what amount of risks U need to cover.
(Keep in mind, insurance is to cover and transfer your risks, NOT as investments.)
eg.
a. if U have economic dependants, pls ensure U have death insurance - yes, death insurance, not life as it pays out after death
Get enough and at the best bang for the buck.
b. does your employer cover enough hospitalization & medical? - no, then please look into it.
Again, insurance should be used as a risk transfer (to insurance Co) and to cover costs which will be disastrous to U or your loved ones.
Buy enough for now + maybe forseeable future (3 years? 5 years?) - balance your coverage needs with costs/affordability.

Now, when U have the above 2 settled - U should have a good hands-on on money & risk management, ie. spending less than U earn by living below your means, thus enabling U to build and accumulate wealth. In addition, WHILE doing the above, learn about asset allocation, classes of assets, investment methodologies like dollar cost averaging, value cost averaging, value investing, growth investing, trend, etc.

Then start accumulating your ammo for investments and while accumulating - formulate a big pix plan, perhaps based on asset allocation + execution methodology coupled with selected/filtered specific investments (eg. DCA with PFEPRF, VCA with PIX, value investing with stocks like PBANK, NESTLE, DLADY, etc.)

Track them and manage them as per your plans and methodologies.
By tracking them, U can then review monthly, yearly, etc. whether your picks AND methodologies work - else tweak.

Phew.. digest digest heheh. Hope the above summary helps.

Do you equates your wife that stays home and take care of the home and children as lazy?
Try exchanging role and u will know what i mean

nway he has his own savings be4 his stopped working and you are right...he uses his time to invests our money.
I dont call mine mine and his is not his...everything we have we put it under US.
but thats not the point...the point i am trying to get across is.....
yes, we all try to earn as much and save as much as we can...but there are more important things in life too and lets not regret when we are on our dying beds