anly: hi, have u even been to alphanatics? there is many people selling 55-200 2nd hand under rm500. choice to choice.... if u are looking for tele.. i recomend
i. SAL55200 (better then tamron55200)
or
ii. Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD Macro (better then SAL75300 in terms of IQ and CA issue)

for superzoom (18 to tele)
the SAL18-250 is great with shorter focusgear then other tamron, but all super zoom suffer the F6.3 and softness at end tele.

well, its up to u eh, if u top up rm100 for the extra 50mm on 18250...

but if u willing to carry 2 lens, u sure ask u get a kitlens +55-200 (sharper, F4 till 100mm)

the 18-200 is great lens too. but i never owned it so i cant comment much

+1, same here. 55-200 anytime over 18-250

cutting all the jumbo crap.... 55-200 is indeed better in all forms of "photo result". (putting practical aside)

(if u were to go birding, noone carry a 18-250 for birding, they carry straight a 70-400G LOL... kidding i carry my 200-400 for birding)



johnmeng: u dont think u wan CC, sure get bomb only, in a photographer eye, that hurts the eye. massively UGLY HDR.

shootkk: yo bro, i shoot wedding too, my opinion,
i. get 2 body.
ii. upgrade ur anticipation skill. always change lens before the fall of event. knowing the event is very important.
iii. i shoot a whole wedding with just a 50mm, not just once, but many times. and they still stunned with my work.


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18-250 is nothing. i sold it off after 1 year sitting in by drybox when i realize my 18-70 and 55-200 can do sharper photo.

summore, 250mm (for wedding) that distance, ur flash cant even efficiently be used la...

i can change my lens in 3 sec. i remember once the F1 (Ferrari team) missing 1 wheel during pit, the next following 30 days, all crew are to train pitting non stop whole day for 30 days. hence, today, Ferrari team has the fastest average pit time. so... PRACTICE changing lens improves you.

and to be honest, how many times a person need or fully uses a tele INDOOR?, i might just take that few step forward to snap with my 18-70/55 (i using 17-50F2.8 as kitlens)... and pls pls stop BS like that few step u lost the moment.... u should have anticipate that moment if u intent to go pro.



BUT if u are just a family man that wanted to shoot ur kids or at birthday party or picnic at the beach, just get the 18-250 and IGNORE the IQ, because it is already at the best it can offer. and u will not use the whole 1xmp to do a 50x40 large print (do u?) at most, u will put as ur wallpaper (fullHD is only less then 3MP) or 5R prints which only require 2mp to get max sharpness off it.

u are better off spending money on a F58....

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 5 2010, 06:24 PM

nex anytime ler

they curi tengok here issit? LOL that was my idea (Blekk).. sadly i didnt patented it on time... LOL, else i will be rich for sony paying me... or... all i wan a A77 prototype before launch... LOL

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Added on October 5, 2010, 11:13 pmbtw, the drawing is ALL wrong. as i mention earlier, reflection is 100%, reflection do not filter out light, unless is passthrough, then only result in 30% lost of light. the diagram sucks so much because, who the hell wan a EVF+OVF? might just use EVF la, why all the trouble to filter out more light before reaching the AF sensor?

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 5 2010, 11:15 PM

nex has outstanding iso, it doesnt need hotshoe for flash,.... and sooner or later, they will have replacement with even better iso.... m43rd if they pack more sensor diode, it will eventually has more noise (due to the packed diodes) compare to APS-C size sensor

but u see... the OVF of that design, is no diff from A300 small OVF ler... u know why A700,850,900 or D90 and 550D has large OVF? because they uses penta prism.... but which that design, without pentaprism, no matter how u say it, it will not satisfied a OVF group.

perfect10: i wont put too much hope up on bokeh. it will have a soft blur background with large aperture, but most ppl use UWA for wide shot of big object which usually end up with large DOF, hence low chance of nice 'bokeh'

im not saying it cant or doesnt have it, but at a very limited situation where u will have really big round bokeh,... mostly are simple soft background. unless u use UWA to snap miniature toys or food.

why F2 (2.8)? wedding photographer just love wide aperture lens, eg: F2.8. because the wide aperture creates low DOF hence able to isolate the background from the subjects.

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Added on October 6, 2010, 12:29 pmwow, nice one! u able to put me into the hamster world/perspective! good job

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 6 2010, 12:29 PM

who? can i say, if i see a DSLR with video mode, that DSLR is Not Pro, its a lowest wanna be pro camera... will u now go and ask ppl DSLR with video is less pro?

may i repeat?

to define a photographer is by his(her) works, not the gear he uses.

SLT is NOT nex, not even close. very farr farr summore hahahaha...

SLT is just mumbo jumbo that sony is good in, MARKETING with lots of stupid names to confuse people. its just a static mirror that improve shooting speed, AF speed, and it still has the sensor that to capture crispy photo~

when u buy car, do u look for "VVTISWTSNTEDLSD"(seriously those jargon in car not my thing) in the car? or just 4 wheel, steering, and bring u to destination?

a camera, should snap a photo, and give u the closest result to ur settings/expectation.

but if, u were to ask does sony worth it? i will tell u, sony by far, everything, has at least 10-30% cheaper(then the 2 big brother) in budget after u completely spend on a WHOLE family of gear.

better, but crop more top off.

*wingster, i help u do some minor correction to avoid misunderstanding , btw QLV is a capturing sensor, not the AF sensor or phasedetect sensor. the phasedetect sensor sit below the mirror box there. always been there. all other SLR design are base on this ideal by minolta.
*hmmm i think i edited too much

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 7 2010, 12:13 AM

freaky_deity: becareful with the printing of "Macro" on lenses.... most lenses has those word to boost their marketing of the lens.

like william said, a true macro lens should have 1:1 magnification.

well, Albnok explained. but i think u are confused with that capturing sensor. IF (i say IF) the AF rely on that secondary capturing sensor, then its a Contrast Detect AF already~ it wont be Phase detect. Sony designed QuickLV so that, able to project image to the LCD and still able to use the Phase Detection in realtime. unlike others which has to close down the mirror in order for the phasedetection to work in split second, many nikon/canon user do not like LV, i)because of the delay, ii)many complained bad focus in lowlight(not enough time to hunt/lock). hence, when me meet other N/C 'fanboy', they will go around and talk about how real/Pro photographer uses OVF, not LV (or EVF) sucks... they just dont know what they are really missing, the Quick LV.

so when u on QLV, the phasedetect sensor, and the top secondary capturing sensor are both activated, the top sensor is calibrated so that it fits nicely to view as like the OVF and share the same AF points.

BUT there is a Major diff when using LV and OVF, is the Metering sensor.

in OVF, it uses the 40-segment honeycomb metering sensor.
in LV, it uses the capturing sensor 1200-zone evaluative segment, which, is far better in giving more accurate metering. hence, Sony QLV is in fact, far more advance and reliable then N/C



cplow1, freddy manson: when added strobe (flash) in a photography, ur photo metering now is divide into 2 area.

i. the foreground,... aka the subject, usually being lit up by the flash....
ii. the background,... aka ambiance light...

the strobe, usually controls the foreground metering.... while, its the camera setting (the Exposure Triangle) that controls the background metering. how people play with highkey and lowkey must understand these key.

boosting up ur ISO, does brighten up the Background, hence why in early days of A300, a lot people love Canon's banquet shots, because they shoot at iso1600, where they have brighter (or same) background/ambiance light as the foreground, while those iso400 shooter(aka A300) will have 'dark' background. if u have A550, go iso1600 all the way, and u will definately felt like canon effect

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Added on October 7, 2010, 12:28 pmanother way to add brightness to the background is to use, SlowSnyc Flash (or SL flash, or BL flash whatever other company name them)....

the metering will run base on the ambiance light, run the setting on ambiance metering, giving u slower shutterspeed(on low iso) so it will have enough time (slow shutter) to capture the backlight ambiance... but most people would like to avoid this, because it might cause a lot of ghosting image, and imbalance WB issue later on.

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 7 2010, 12:28 PM

before everyshot, i adjust my flash knowing where it will lit. i use all angle even 140degree(backwards)



bouncing flash is like bouncing a BALL.

when the ball fall at 90degree, where will the ball bounce to?
when the ball fall at 60degree, where will the ball bounce to?
when the ball fall at 45degree, where will the ball bounce to?

when ur flash is bounce at 90degree, the light will always come down at "????" degree... hence lighting on that "area"

when ur flash is bounced at 60 degree, judging on the ceiling height, where will the bounce light land? and that landed area, is the lit area of the flash.

so, now, in practical, what degree to use, is judge by the distance u going to shoot, u will not bounce 90degree if ur subject is 8 meter away.... because it will only lit the area u are standing, or the flash will FIRE max hoping some 'leak light' will reach 8 meter away to brighten ur 'subject' @.@

if u were shooting at high angle (camera tilt downward), then ur flash might need to bounce 'backwards, or 90degree UP to lit ur subject when they are 1-2 meter near

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 7 2010, 12:39 PM

TQ.

cplow1: well. the harshness only happen if u have super reflective skin surface. else, its really nice... direct flash is no different from WL direct from another angle, but no ppl call it harsh~

the wide panel in fact, is better then bare flash, because the widepanel spread the light so much, it actually bounce everywhere that bring more directional light to ur group photo

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Added on October 7, 2010, 12:55 pmseriously, that link is more misleading then it teaches... bounce flash is depending on the distant u and subject... but the link uses a static subject at the same distant, it will mislead people thinking 90degree is best light. summore its missing bounce card for front fill

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 7 2010, 12:55 PM

hand really icthy on getting a KM2870G..... sigh

ahhh, u are now even more confused. LOL.

metering has 3 mode.
i) multi metering (or all zone metering, or wide metering, other brand will name it differently but its the same)
ii) center weighted metering (this take a small area of the middle zone, best for portraiture of subject in the middle where it will ignore strong backlight around the corners)
iii) spot metering (take 1 segment only, of ur AF point, this is the only metering that can move around... logically, wide/multi mean all segment, it can move, center weighted is CENTER weighted, so Spot is the only metering can move around and meter according to the selected point.)

sony uses 40 "honey comb shape" boxes, to evaluate the exposure. how? (actually i dunno the actual value) it take reading from each of the 40 segment, and get the AVERAGE(balanced EV) out of it, and calculate the setting to shoot.

it works the same way with 1200 zone metering. just that, with more 'zone/segment' the averaged unit is more accurate then just 40 segment. hence, when u shoot are with light source (light bulb) the 40segment sometimes will goes underexpose to control the light thinking it was overexposed. while 1200zone will detect more accurate metering by having more meter to average, it will have more balanced because it calculate better of how much did the lightsource overexposed the segment. but the weakness of the 40segment is also due to it uses penta mirror, if its penta prism, i believe its much better and the prism are brighter then the mirror.

go and try it out

conventional OVF is just OVF.
sony "quick" LV is diff from conventional LV. But, sony MF LV check is actually, same as conventional LV (or works the same way) jsut that, it wont try to AF when the mirror comes down.

how QuickLV focus is, the Mirror stay there like in OVF Mode. the mirror box is untouch or unaltered. it still reflect the image upward to the OVF area.... its just the OVF area of A300 (or any model that has QLV) is using Penta Mirror instead of Penta Prism, you will notice there model has much smaller OVF. the penta mirror is tilted slightly, reflecting the image from the Main Mirror below, into the QLV capturing sensor.
now, since the mirror box is unaltered, mean the AF module is still intact and able to still uses Phase Detection. hence with QLV, u still get fast AF then other conventional that, they need to Lift up the Main mirror, making the AF module below unable to work.

yo, i advise A560/580 no matter what. its a A550 replacement.

i) 15 af point
ii) HELL LOT faster AF detection and lock
iii) i heard from insider who tested A55 for a whole week, it focus marvelous in Pub, so i guess the A560/80 has better more sensitive night shooting.

as a photographer, u know those top 3 thing is more important then iso, megapixel or grip.

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Added on October 8, 2010, 1:02 amit is soft when u zoom in to 100% (friend send me samples) at F3.5, but the sharpness is okay at F5.6 and better at F8.

but if u resize the 10mp photo to 50% (5mp is still huge photo), it is tack sharp

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 8 2010, 01:02 AM

well, 32inch, if u dont zoom it, viewed on (let say fullHF) 1920x1080, thats hardly even 3mp... so 10mp scale down to 3mp, its compressing the pixel by 3 times, sure is VERY sharp lo

i think he typo for HVL F20.... hahahaha...

rm250, he looking for a broken one har?