being a directional tread, s.drive is noisy. even so as the tread wear out. direct rotation too. but water dissipation is good. was using 205/55/r15 until recently.
i used to be a big fan of yokohama right till michellin rolled out their low profile 17" ps3

how about hankook v12, it's quieter than s.drive. but at a lower price too. and overall performance is fine.

mines adjustable sux. i'd rather go for horse riding in bh bukit tinggi was using it for about a month until i give it up for a tein superstreet which has more
composed ride. at higher price thou. now back to non-adjustable already.

nice feel, isn't it? and the pu bushes is more responsive too
dent? could it be you accidently run over a hard surface or shop did not do the job properly?

pnp and high cam

if it works fine, i'll definitely get a hybrid turbo ones
btw, it's the compatibility that need to be address and not the size. i learn it hard way during engine transplant. was using the td05
on gsrt block mated to mivec head. result; too much of turbo lag. finally settle for s256.

should be the same macpherson strut w/arb front and multi-link w/arb rear too. just that the neo tend to be tail happy due to the lighter rear end.
we can always change the arb to bigger aftermarket arb for better handling. else, change the bushes to pu for solid feel

of course no issue with your cross drilled and slotted performance disc .
for best result, performance brake pad need to pair with performance disc rotor; lesser fade effect and solid feel.
also, it require a slightly longer warm up time for optimum performance.
try bendix metal king titanium on any non-performance stock disc rotor and you will noticed more dust produced compare to using non-performance brake pad.
from my experience, it will shortened the stock rotor lifespan.

check the engine oil level at the morning. engine may feel sluggish if excessive amount of engine oil pour in.
also, check your throttle body for possible carbon deposit.

what tires are you currently on? and what is the brake pad brand?
make sure you're not getting the imitation brake pad which is quite a lot in the market. a friend of mine was conned by a workshop. installed the imitation bendix mk brake pad and his car's brake behavior become unstable. turn out the imitation brake pad cracked and peel off in bites.
also, do not pair a performance brake pad with the standard disc. both operates(optimum) at different temperature. sooner or later, the disc will gave way and may need skimming / replacement.
btw, the stock brake on waja is already sux big time. do not push the luck in corner
if the brake feel spongy, about time to bleed the fluid. worn out disc may caused unstable braking too. also, late braking is fine but braking inside fast corner is dangerous. tires may lose traction thus require a wider and faster than usual steering correction.

there is a step by step instruction with picture available on yahoo search sometimes ago. not sure if its still around.
btw, its easy for an expert but quite challenging for a beginner. after tb cleaning, you still need to re-tune the throttle; either by looking at the idle rpm
or listening to the idle sound that's it.

60 bucks is a simple computer diagnostic which may lead you to know if there is any problem. not tuning

This post has been edited by yngwie: Dec 9 2010, 09:59 PM

can always opt for engine balancing service from any good garage in sunway

mrl@
never went for engine balancing service alone. service was offered as a package(balancing, pnp, lightened, turbo servicing...etc) when i send my car for engine transplant. 'chop' job gives more power but require a shorter service interval.
standard price(may vary depending on the job done and tuner's reputation) should be more than 800 bucks including labour. with piston, rods, crank and maybe with flywheel job. more if there is an oil / bearing / gasket / seal change. cost more than twice if a piggyback included.
but it does wonder to the car. less vibration and more oomph

boyzone@
as far as i know, most of the efi engine out from factory already went thorough balancing process. perhaps, campro engine does went thorough it too .
it's not necessary to do an engine balancing on a relatively new car with low mileage.
a simple top overhaul is fine. once we opted for complete overhaul, then there is when the engine balancing comes to calculation. it worth every penny.

ahpaul82@
throttle tuning will be depend on the engine behavior after tb cleaning.
any system diagnostic will cost 60 bucks. further problem which need to be solved / repair will cost more.
heck! it's already called 'tuning'.

towsuan@
front inner fender or side fender? could it be a worn out absorber link?
or loosened bumper / inner fender screw?

TripleJ104@
i usually do tb cleaning every 10k or twice a year, whichever comes 1st.
once you noticed the engine response is sluggish, you can always start with tb cleaning.
ok. i'll go hunting for a 308 turbo 360 tonight.... lol

diablo69@
standard labor charge is around rm45 at any workshop. but try to avoid a workshop which just soaked the tb into petrol and dry em up . it may affect the afr mixture. proton sc does provide the service.
if you come to kl, look for Thundergod_Cid in garage sale.
his threebond engine conditioner works wonder.

am trying for modena 360 as a benchmark. perhaps, i should find one on the way to sepang tomorrow
the 2.5 scooby owner from singapore which eat supercars for breakfast(acceleration and top speed) is a real good inspiration

7k km service interval is fine for full synth. auto or manual cps? a clean and good air filter will help. so, twice a year should be okay.
if you like high revving ride, consider installing an oil catch tank too. stay away from imitation. even those oct from halfcut shop is better than the imitation ones.

morning guys.
'touge kaki' spotted!

hi guys, read a similar problem from this thread last time, so, just wanna share my eperience.
while driving a friend's waja cps the other day, upon entering a left corner with slight steering turn, suddenly the car swerved violently to the left which i corrected on time. lucky no car at the right lane.
my friend told me he experienced it twice too.
i end up bringing his car back to my garage for troubleshooting. after much effort, from suspension, shaft and steering bushes inspection, the culprit turn out to be the worn out upper sidewall of his nct5 tires.
upon removing the tire, his left side tire with rim will sway and drop to the left side(does not stay still).
no wonder it only happened during cold start where the tires temperature does not operate at optimum level yet.
anyone having the sma problem should consider checking the tires condition immediately.

have you try using an industrial grease(not the spray grease) on the part?
btw, i finally solved the 'rattling' sound(rear) and 'ticking' sound on both front door on my old waja.
light rattling sound was caused by the rear seat zipper touching the seat frame; solved with white tape. the boot area was done with grease.
the suspension part was done with lithium grease spray.
last time i replaced the front door power window panel with steel type. worn out rubber caused the 'ticking' sound. solved by white tape too.
car was quiet for now.

tires is very important part, after all, it was the only contact you have between the car and the surface. choosing the better tire is fundamental.
new tire usually need a run-in, it will only shows real characteristic once it cover more than 500km or so. but new tire should not be the reason of violent swerve.
violent swerve / excessive steering vibration might has something to do with uneven tire wear / out of sort balancing and alignment.
coupled with a worn out steering bush, you could feel the steering vigorous respond even during slight braking or entering a corner. even more on uneven road.
beside suspension setup, tire's type / sidewall propriety and pressure play a major part in handling and comfort.

definitely not but its a tad better than our waja. albeit, twice the price
other than soundproofing treatment, maintaining a good mounting, bushes and wheel bearing does play a factor.

am using the same white tape for piping. tiny white tape to wrap around and sticking a thin layer of insulflex to the door metal frame. at least it last a year.
another complicated solution is by applying a few layer of ca glue. but it usually peel off after prolonged expose to sunlight.

depending on your preference. either comfort or handling.
for comfort, sachs(check with kobe10) is fine. for proton, i prefer apm performax sports abs and spring, btw. not too stiff like adjustable, yet no compromise
in handling. nyek2 sound could be from the absorber link.

sticky white tape is ugly it leaved a glue mark on the surface after prolonged exposed to heat.
am using the soft white plastic tape wraparound(available at any hardware shop) that used by plumber on piping joint to avoid water leak. it works just fine!