like tht need c aaron free boh nia.

walao! kelvin.. u dunno how to go tesco..? u mau kena pukul butt ar..? *smack smack!

u exit penang bridge.. don exit queensbay road.. exit the straight wan.. u remember that time we go interact wan..? then darvin bring until engine mati.. we wait at the side of the road there..? go in front more.. is Caltex with Tesco there.. E-gate u tak tau..?? u go in front got Caltex.. i can assure u.. i sunday not free.. unless wan my mother to smack my butt.. LOL

he maybe fast 4get de gua since he ride mainly all at mainland.

just added racing boy stabilizer..
i dunno is this price ok..
RM65..?

rm65 ok la.. at least din kena chop head.. =)

ouh..
usually the price around wat ar.?
i didnt have time to survey..
next week on saturday then i have free time..
huhu..
lots of thing need to do..
=D

u buy rm 65 is ok la.. usually around that price.. got also its either +2 or -2 like that nia.. so its okay la... =)

orite..
thx bro..
out wanna go hang out.
=)

apa beza pakai fork stabilizer?

Woah.. suddenly so diam ki.... ~.~

---

Added on September 18, 2010, 10:49 pmFor give both fork down together... will get better cornering but 1 weak point is.. when you kena langgar 1 fork by car or bla bla bla... both fork pun kemek...

This post has been edited by Itsuki_Kun: Sep 18 2010, 10:49 PM

u try install fork stabiliser and see.. try riding ur bike now(without stabiliser) and try corner or go through uneven road..

then u go install one.. try to corner or go through uneven road again.. u'll know the difference urself..

its harder for us to explain and let u feel how the handling performs.. =)

guys, check dis out. betul ori ka ni???

http://motomalaya.net/blog/2010/09/17/orig...13mm/#more-1418

about this valve head ar.. i see the valve.. like kena some porting already... dunno ori wan or not... i think ori wont do this kind of stuff wan..

and if no porting.. the valve head there shud be cleaner and without any little scar.. if its ori la..

this only suitable for mod engine...cause stock bore.. got too much fuel also not good ma.. haha..too rich..

this is ori valve head VS big valve head

hey ppl.. dunno bizzy read this b4 ade boh.. this is from t135 wan tips on modding fz block to lc.. just sharing some info about it.....

TIPS FOR those who already upgrade block to V-Ixion block :

1. Dont forget to change the Cam (stock vixion cam / my super cam) followed by pilot jet stepped up to #22,5 and Main Jet #105/110
2. Carb change to MIKUNI TM24, TM28, KEIHIN PE 28, PWK 28
3. Change CDI & ignition coil
EDIT :
4. Change valve spring too... (TK or whatever brand which proven to be good)

COMMON TIPS:

1. Dont install the lower cyl gasket, use threebond sealer instead, then check ur valve clearance, is the piston still within safe clearance from valve at Top Dead Center (TDC) position and not collide with valve by rotating the crankshaft counter clockwise 4 times (to the top position marked at the cam sprocket)
2. Take off the decompression assy on cam sprocket.
3. See that engine breather rubber pipe from water pump that connects to air box? Unplug it from air box, then close the end of the rubber pipe with an aftermarket air filter (small sizes usually priced about USD 3.75-7.5 per pcs) and tie it using cable tie to secure position, and close the hole on the air box using plastics or whatever u can use, theory based on 4 Stroke Performance Tuning book by A.Graham Bell, the saturated air on ur filter box from the engine blow by robs a little bit of hp, the reason they connect it to air filter box is because manufacturer must comply to government enviromental rule.
Race bikes use an oil catch tank to solve this engine blow by thing.
4. DONT over fill the oil, it will torture ur engine, optimum is at medium level (for Auto Clutch) and 95% position (for Hand/Manual Clutch).
5. Valve clearance (for stock T135 cam)
Performance Setting 0.10 (IN) - 0.13 (OUT)
Fuel efficient setting 0.12 (IN) - 0.15 (OUT)

For Vixion cam
Performance setting 0.10 IN - 0.18 OUT
Stock setting 0.10 IN - 0.20 OUT

6. Take off the choke butterfly if u rarely use it, helps a bit at high rpm.
7. Change the stock air filter to K&N, or use yellow foam side from old VEGA air filter element and modify it according to the size of stock air filter assy.


i am F*CKING PISSED OFF WITH THE CODING OF THIS SHIT! ahhh!!!! why cant i separate it from the freaking spoiler... CIL*KA...

This post has been edited by Aaron135LC: Sep 19 2010, 12:30 AM

LOL... xD btw... our stock bike are perfect already.. except CDI and pipe only... hehe...

This post has been edited by Itsuki_Kun: Sep 19 2010, 12:32 AM

and somehow i did notice something that may cause overheating from bigger bore for lc...

notice the colour i did to the pics.. the orange wan is the gap for coolent to go through wan..and so does the blue colour..

for stock block.. it has bigger gap... whereas for racing block.. the gap is smaller..to give bigger bore..

does this affect the temperature of the block..? as less coolent circulate within the wall of the bore..

jeff said anything bigger than 60mm will kaboom the block.. or as he said.. easy overheating..



This post has been edited by Aaron135LC: Sep 19 2010, 12:45 AM


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Correct ! I heard bm jeff say.. over 60mm block = very easy over heat.. then he must re-wiring the fan.. when start your engine.. then it will turn on fan too.. so.. if want mod.. like.. 57 or 58mm block enough already.. just use racing block enough(faito ? y-teq ? or..? you decide*just no over 200 for 1 set?*...) =/ no need use till fz block(RM 350++ with ring & piston*most cheapest from chongkiatz*).. because freaking expensive.. just buy it if you rich...

This post has been edited by Itsuki_Kun: Sep 19 2010, 12:51 AM

when wan to do pipe ar...??? come on!!! hahah

bila you free ? bila jeff free ? xD monday cannot liao.. tuesday~friday.. choose 1 day.. then go mod pipe.. remember !! use jeff's life to guarantee for the pipe ar.. haha... you try sms/call jeff see when he free lo.. I hope can go find him at 10am~11am like that then will be done at 1~2pm..