should be Segaria instead.

anyone know where can buy brake shims ?

sorry, i don't think i'll go for open pod, because im on auto

me and sam going for sachs

waiting for your sachs bro

serviced radiator and changed coolant. the mechanic removed my thermostat dunno for what. he say better cooling wor. is it true? now my car temp is below normal operating range. even after its warmed up. what should i do?

sot wei... Whr can remove la...

cause he said he dont know if its working or not. its just a small thing. should i get a new one and ask him to install?

evo 4 is fine. but require at least 16" of wheels to clear the twinpot caliper. and some modification require to accommodate the dual layer servo.
it wasn't a plug and play job.

you changed to apm performax spring as well or maintain the stock spring? apm performax paired with performax spring will bounced in stiffer way than the
other non-performance absorber but it gives better handling overall. last time my rear apm performax lasted for more than 2 years of abuse.

Mine also removed already, 2 years plus, no problem at all. Last time I got overheat problem.

but dont u find that your car is always below the optimal temperature range when driving? mine was always at the 1st mark from the bottom even after warm up.

When first start/raining day will always at the first mark, but after long time (about 10min), it will go back to normal wo. It will goes down again when drive fast.

i'm on full set performax abs + spring , pretty stiff i could say. if there's some abs which can adjust the stiffness on the fly and without hurting the wallet would be great.

btw , i guess it's time to change my atf fluid. where can do machine full flush yea ? it started to slips and keep on spooling(rev) when it should engage instead. alot of problem rising up.

hey, same thing here, i think im gonna change my atf also, although my mech said the atf is still clean

No idea, but you can make one. Regarding the squeal, u may wanna apply grease around the mating points of the calipers, and also on the shims, that is if there are any


Dude, get the mechanic to replace the thermostat immediately. You have to understand that erm... how the thermostat works. Thats not important.
Whats more important is that WHY is the thermostat PLACED THERE.

It is so that your engine will warm up faster in the morning and will stay at optimum operating temperature all the time. Colder is not always better bro due to certain reasons. Thermostat opens and allows water to pass through into the radiator for cooling when it reaches probably 90degrees or something and closes when the engine is too cool, perhaps 75degree?

The thermostat's function and the thermostat's task are two different things.

If your mechanic does not know how to check your thermostat, i'd suggest you replace the mechanic, not the thermostat bro.
If it's stuck-up, the bottom hose will be much much cooler than the top hose or was it vice versa which i cant rmb ; as the thermostat isn't allowing cooled water to enter the engine via the bottom hose.

Get the thermostat replaced, and the mechanic if possible =)

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Added on September 16, 2010, 11:07 amyou have to make sure it's slipping first. If it's really slipping then flushing is not gonna solve the problem dude. It's a mechanical failure

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Sep 16 2010, 11:07 AM

Same here , my ATF is still red in color but smells burnt though. Got any recommendation around PJ area to do it together ?

I'm not really sure it's slipping but it seems slow to engage. Read somewhere on the internet stating that even low on ATF fluid will cause it to behave like this aswell but for my case , they overflow it till even when cold , it's all above the indicator.

I wonder why mechanic always overfill , be it engine oil , atf or any other oil.

if i were you, i will listen to elton and change mech

any other good recommended break system that would suit our waja? and what would the cost be plus installation??
once came across FTO set of knuckle + disk + caliper.. but dunno if its can fit to waja.. .. but sure love the 5 lugs 114.3 knuckle..

excessive oil / atf poured inside. which makes the engine feels heavy and slippery gear change
about time for you to change your mechanic.

so far, the most suitable i'd ever use was the twin pot evo 4 brake. plug and play. new disc(4xx bucks) / pad(1xx bucks) replacement is widely available. halfcut cost in the region of 600 bucks with labour your 17" wheels looks nicer with big disc and twin pot caliper
btw, 4 pot nissan from r3x series and mitubishi gto need some modification. and costly spare parts.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Sep 16 2010, 02:19 PM

any mechanic or workshop to recommend ? i need to do a full flush.

perhaps, gt auto could do but not sure about pricing. what is your car mileage?

gt auto @ sunway one rite ? sure cut throat. car mileage 170k edi.

if twinpot isn't your choice, you could do things like upgrading to better pads, steel braided hose, evo3 brake servo or bigger rotor(i forgot which brand is it that suits our waja, just plug and play)

isn't it evo3? because it is 4 holes, but there's some modification on knuckles right?

few pages back i tot they recommended mr. raja?