mao2@
can't remember which oz but it was with the original evo 3 series.
mao2, i thought you're on 17" wheels?

jonnywee@
atf should be replace every 20k km. you have to use the original proton atf which is sp3 or something. better ones from mitsubishi is okay too.
the drain pug is located underneath. the gearbox. on the right hand side.

coyouth@
how long it had been since the last time you changed the timing belt? or could it be the worn out alternator / air-cond belt?
wd-40 or grease will not help if it was caused by the worn out belt or too tight / loose pulley.
ask your mechanic to check it properly. snapped belt during a trip is the thing we want to avoid at all cost.

btw, need to find a proper 15" wheels with protruding spoke to accommodate the caliper.
btw, the drawback on twinpot; with all the modification on braking system, the brake just bite like no tomorrow, hence, braking early into the corner might result in too much speed loss out of the block .
seriously, never neglect the rear brake system too. at least, replaced the stock rear with bigger disc.
i remember there is a guy i met on the workshop sometimes ago which only upgrade his front to twinpot while no changes on the rear brake at all.
i told him it will be suicidal for him to do so since he is driving a modded wira.
a few months later, he call me and ask why his car was suddenly spinning 360 degree while hard braking at 160km/h. i told him it was because the front
took too much of the braking effort while the worn out stock rear brake is doing nothing at all. coupled with a bad tyre at the rear, here you go spinning
360 degree during high speed sudden braking.

original proton engine mounting should last for at least 4 years.
mmc ones around 2 - 3 years. the racing type mounting is only good at absorbing the vibration but not the engine sound. original proton is still the best.

twinpot evo front + modded 1.8 engine + worn out stock rear disc + lousy rear tyre = 360 degree spinning during emergency high speed braking
driver is fine but he told me drive shaft, wheel bearing, and alignment gone. lucky it happened around putrajaya area where traffic is less.
btw, mmc engine mounting should cost far less than 200 bucks. original proton around 250 bucks (month of june price).

you can use the cheaper gsr brake system at the rear, which is still bigger than the stock waja while being cheaper than evo. another option for single pot is those from vr4. which is more responsive.

those are racing type. solid rubber which is more robust than the original proton but noise filtering no better than original protons'.
make sure to get the new one. some halfcut is as bad as worn out mounting.
wah! turbo spool so 'keng'. you're using hybrid turbine from td0xlh series, is it?
btw, the whooosh! sound is very addictive. nowadays, even my sister also keep playing with the accelerator

steven@
nice
what is the 0 to 100km/h timing?

mao2@
check THIS out. 5 lugs fto all round.
according to the seller, can test out before buying. trade-in stock waja brake allowed

This post has been edited by yngwie: Sep 20 2010, 08:33 PM

17" with profile 45 wheels sure looks nice on waja but the drawback will be the decreased acceleration, increased fc(if we care much) and even weaker brake system. getting a lighter set of wheels might help
but the larger diameter and tyre width(contact) will caused the engine and brake to work harder and slower speedometer reading. not to mentioned the needs for suitable and reliable absorber set.
16" seems to be the better option. even if less choice of tyre available, they still cost cheaper than the equivalent 17" while provide a quite accurate speedometer reading and better compromise on brake and engine power.
just my 2c

fto brake was of twinpot front and single pot rear which is still much better than waja(single pot all round) coz' it was mean to stop the 2.0 v6 with 180bhp stock.
definitely a good upgrade!

considering that your's was still on 4g18p, that was a fast timing already! are you on twin plate clutch?

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Added on September 21, 2010, 7:47 pmit's a reality. not a poison

This post has been edited by yngwie: Sep 21 2010, 07:47 PM

bring passenger will decreased the power to weight ratio. thus caused a slower timing

btw, yokohama a.drive r1 of 205/50/r16 should be around 280 bucks.

yoko a.drive r1 is fine. hankook v12 is another alternative tyre with good performance for it's price.
bear in mind, any directional tread tyre are noisy by nature. even more for performance tyre and as the tread wear out.
avoid my-01. lousy grip ( that's why i am using 'em to learn drift ).
falken 912 is fine for it's price but tread wear out faster.
i am currently into ps3 on my main ride which is of asymmetric tread. slightly softer sidewall but it was equally good in wet and dry!
not to mentioned being quieter.

pu steering bush cost 80 bucks with installation. z racing somewhere in the mines(balakong) near shell area. you can watch 'em complete the job.
steering feels tighter and more responsive after changed to pu. excessive vibration sometimes could be caused by uneven / excessive tyre's tread wear.

not so sure about 16". should be around 440 bucks each.
am on 15" and 17". 195/55/r15 cost around 240 bucks each while 225/45/r17 almost 600 bucks each.

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Added on September 24, 2010, 8:45 pmcar had been idle in the garage for a week. no strange sound before.
but this afternoon, drive my car out and there is a soft rattling sound from the rear passenger (left side) on the car.
already checked the rear seat zip, boot area and even the door. sound still there. very annoying.
any idea?

This post has been edited by yngwie: Sep 24 2010, 08:45 PM

thanks a lot. will check later.

btw, i just revert back from open pod to drop-in k&n air filter on my waja ride.
wanna let go off a few item;
1. waja front grill. suitable for open pod setup due to no hole at the air box intake.
condition ; good. use car spray to re-spray in black. fiber material.
price : rm 50 firm.
picture;


2. one set of apm peformax sports spring. front and rear. about 30% stiffer than the waja stock spring. lower by -35mm.
comes with 4 pcs of original proton absorber rubber protector. bought an extra set.
condition ; new. took out from box for photo session.
price : rm170 firm.
picture;


also, those looking for other car item; a set of used hks spring for toyota altezza. no picture due to spring still in use.

kindly pm for more info.

falken 522 sux big time. especially those made in indonesia which is slippery in wet.
falken ziex912 is fine. comfort, very quiet when new and decent performance. drawback ; lower tread wear rating. but none is perfect
btw, for an average driver, yokohama c.drive is decent enough. or hankook v12. else, michellin ps3 for those with higher budget.

i doubt you could find one. that is touching the price of entry level 16" tyres already. if you're tight on budget, check out sime astar 300.
less aquaplanning and acceptable grip for it's price. do not push the speedometer in wet. no compromise on safety

for 195/60/r15, 210 front and 190 rear should be okay. else, 220 front and 200 rear for more composed drive.

forget v2. get the v12 instead.

hankook v12 was already in the market for quite sometimes while the v2 is a new kid on the block.
i remember there is a germany independent company that tested the v12 against the likes of gy f1 asymmetric and csc3 last year and it did not disappoint.
drove a friend car fitted with v12 and i could say the progressive / handling is fine.
perhaps, you could go for v2 and let us know the result

was a uhp class tyre. good value for money.

reef_d@
had a bad experience with powerzone. so, you can either use the full exhaust hotbits setup(from 4-2-1 extractor to twintip) which is available at ea autoworks or speedworks. cost 1xxx bucks.
or try topcat from everco, sunway. both are a good choice with hotbits being more expensive / slightly responsive at higher rpm.

3 bucks is the most if it was the fuse problem. or 35 bucks for the whole front port.
btw, the faulty rear one most probably caused by a blown fuse.

if am not mistaken, this one should be of 265mm disc of earlier evo twinpot.
but still need 16" wheels to clear the caliper.

mivec sohc or dohc? with tiptronic or manual?
spare parts isn't a problem but if the mileage is too high, it might need a rebuild, which will set you back more or less around 3k.

you broke the 2 outer clip while force locking it after slotting in an aftermarket air filter, isn't it?
check with airline in garage sales. i think he used to sell the bottom air box.
else you could just mod it.

clean engine bay but sometimes looks can be deceiving.
dashboard was of original waja, which involved a lot of cut and paste on the wiring.
repaint car?

have you personally test drive it? like car start at 1st try, electronic stuff like power window, lights, meter gauge..etc all working, acceleration, no jerking, braking well; ie, car stay in line during hard braking(no swaying), car go straight with hands off the steering in straight run(alignment), even tires' tread wear, no squeaking in hard cornering and going over a bump, no sign / feel of cut and paste chassis, no excessive engine sound / noise in cabin(sign of worn out bushes, mounting)... no love letter from jpj / police traffic and the list go on...