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> ★★★LYN Sport Rim Club★★★, Official Sport Rim Discussion Thread

AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 08:24 PM


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rclxms.gif LYN Sport Rim Club rclxms.gif
-----------------------




Rim manufacturers:

A:
ABT
Ace
Adler Racing
ADR
Advanti Racing
AEZ
Aguzze
Alba
Altstadt
ALT
American Racing
Anterra
Arelli
ASA
ATP
Axis
Azev
Azzur

B:
BBS
Billit
Black Racing
Blitz
Borbet
Breyton
BRM

C:
Carlsson
CEC
Compomotive
Concept Neeper

D:
DAZZ
Desmond
Detata
DTM
Dunlop

E:
Elite
EMPI
Enkei
Enzo
Epic

F:
Fikse
Fittipaldi
Focal
Forgeline
Formula
Fondmetal

G:
GAB
Giovanna

H:
Hamann
Hartge

I:
IFG
Impul
InterMilano

J:
JRD

K:
K-II
K-Speed
Katana
Keizer
Kid's Racing
Kinesis
Konig
Kosei

L:
Lenso
Lexani
Lowenhart

M:
Mackin
Manaray
Mazdaspeed
MHT
Mille Miglia
MIM
Minilite
MOMO
Mondex
Monster
MSW
Mugen

N:
NAR
Niche
Nippon Racing
Nismo

O:
OZ

P:
Panasport
Panther
Power Racing

Q:
Quantum

R:
Racing Dynamics
Racing Gear
Racing Hart
Rage Racing
Raptor Racing
RDSport
ROH
Ronal
Rota
RS Watanabe

S:
Sparco
Sprint Hart
Simmons
SpeedLite
Speedy Wheels
Spoon Sports
SSR
Stark
Ster
Stillen
Superlight

T:
Team Dynamics
Team Loco
Tecnomagnesio
Tenzo-R
TGF
TOORA
TRM
TSW
TTRS

U:

V:
Volk Racing

W:
Wedsport
Weld
Work

X:

Y:

Z:
Z-Speed
Zen Racing
Zenetti

Numbering:
5-Zigen


These are all the well known rim manufacturers from all around the world, did I miss some?

This post has been edited by AceCombat: Jul 13 2010, 11:22 PM
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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 08:25 PM


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Common Rims Building Technology



Cast Technology


user posted image
This is a standard cast wheel
Enkei RP-F1


One-Piece Cast Wheels

This is the most common type of aluminum wheel. The casting of wheels is the process of getting molten aluminum inside a mold to form a wheel. There are different ways this can be accomplished and although it sounds simple, this is truly an art when done properly.

GRAVITY CASTING

Gravity casting is the most basic process of pouring molten aluminum into a mold utilizing the earth's gravity to fill the mold. Gravity casting offers a very reasonable production cost and is a good method for casting designs that are more visually oriented or when reducing weight is not a primary concern. Since the process relies on gravity to fill the mold, the aluminum is not as densely packed in the mold as some other casting processes. Often gravity cast wheels will have a higher weight to achieve the required strength.

LOW PRESSURE CASTING

Low pressure casting uses positive pressure to move the molten aluminum into the mold quicker and achieve a finished product that has improved mechanical properties (more dense) over a gravity cast wheel. Low-pressure casting has a slightly higher production cost over gravity casting. Low pressure is the most common process approved for aluminum wheels sold to the O.E.M. market. Low-pressure cast wheels offer a good value for the aftermarket as well. Some companies offer wheels that are produced under a higher pressure in special casting equipment to create a wheel that is lighter and stronger than a wheel produced in low pressure. Once again in the quest for lighter weight, there is a higher cost associated with the process.

Spun-Rim, Flow-Forming or Rim Rolling Technology

This specialized process begins with a low pressure type of casting and uses a special machine that spins the initial casting, heats the outer portion of the casting and then uses steel rollers pressed against the rim area to pull the rim to its final width and shape. The combination of the heat, pressure and spinning create a rim area with the strength similar to a forged wheel without the high cost of the forging. Some of the special wheels produced for the O.E.M. high performance or limited production vehicles utilize this type of technology resulting in a light and strong wheel at a reasonable cost. BBS has used this technology for several years in their production of racing wheels for Formula One and Indy cars. BBS's RC wheel for the aftermarket is an example of a wheel produced using spun rim technology.



Forged Technology

user posted image
A standard forged wheel
Mugen MF-10L

The ultimate in one-piece wheels. Forging is the process of forcing a solid billet of aluminum between the forging dies under an extreme amount of pressure. This creates a finished product that is very dense, very strong and therefore can be very light. The costs of tooling, development, equipment, etc., make this type of wheel very exclusive and usually demand a high price in the aftermarket.

Semi-Solid Forged
Specially by Speed Star Racing & Sprint Hart & Racing Hart & Wedsport ( Selected models only )
user posted image
A standard SSF rim
Sprint Hart Formula CP-F

In 1991, SSR learned of the advanced technology known as Semi-Solid Forging (SSF). This technology was being used by the aircraft industry to manufacture parts that required low weight and reliability. SSR then acquired a license to use SSF technology from Alumax Laboratories. They conducted research and development for one year and created their patented wheel manufacturing plant in Nara, Japan. By combining the best features of casting and forging, SSR implemented them in the manufacturing process of SSF. Further research led scientists to develop a process whereby mixing alloys during the solidification process changed the original microstructure of the alloy from a branch-like structure to a globule granular structure. Alumax then perfected the aluminum stirring process, Magneto-Hydro Dynamics (MHD), and created the basis of SSF technology which results in a pure cylindrical alloy billet free of non-metals, gasses, oxides and other impurities. This MHD billet, when heated to a specific temperature, holds a semi-solid form. The billet is then pressed into a mold at a high rate keeping the preferred globule granular microstructure as the new shape is formed. The end product is very dense and strong. SSR is the only wheel manufacturer in the world to produce SSF aluminum wheels. SSR continues to research ways to further develop SSF, creating reliable, durable, and lightweight wheels.
After the wheels go through a spinning process during manufacturing they are heat treated for a second time. This application of heat increases the strength of the wheel. As a result the wheels are lighter and stronger making them ideal for hard tuned race cars and heavier vehicles.


Multi-Piece Wheels
user posted image
A standard multi-piece wheel
Speed Star Racing Professor SP1-R


This type of wheel utilizes two or three components assembled together to produce a finished wheel. Multi-piece wheels can use many different methods of manufacturing. Centers can be cast in various methods or forged. The rim sections for 3-piece wheels are normally spun from disks of aluminum. Generally, spun rim sections offer the ability to custom-tailor wheels for special applications that would not be available otherwise. The rim sections are bolted to the center and normally a sealant is applied in or on the assembly area to seal the wheel. This type of 3-piece construction was originally developed for racing in the early 1970s and has been used on cars ever since. The 3-piece wheels are most popular in the 17" and larger diameters.

There are now many options for 2-piece wheels in the market. The 2-piece wheel design does not offer as wide a range of application that a 3-piece wheel allows, however they are more common in the market and the prices start well below the average 3-piece wheel. Some 2-piece wheels have the center bolted into a cast or cast/spun rim section and other manufacturers press centers into spun rim sections and weld the unit together. When BBS developed a new 2-piece wheel to replace the previous 3-piece street wheel, they used the special rim-rolling technology (originally developed for racing wheels) to give the rim section the weight and strength advantages similar to a forged rim. On the high-end of the 2-piece wheel market you can find wheels using forged rims and forged centers. Since these are only sold in small volume and due to the high development and production costs associated with the forging process, they tend to be on the high end of the price scale.


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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 08:25 PM


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How We Know What Fits
This article and images are both taken from Tirerack

user posted image

It may seem obvious, but a wheel is comprised of a hub, spokes and rim. These parts work together to create the wheel. The hub is the center portion of the wheel and is what attaches the wheel to the suspension. The spokes radiate out from the hub and attach to the rim. The rim is the outer part of the wheel that holds the tire. While many people refer to wheels as "rims," this is technically incorrect.

Wheels come in all different styles, sizes, bolt patterns and offsets. So how do we know which wheels will fit your vehicle? We can only do this by first knowing your vehicle inside and out. Measuring your vehicle's critical components with sophisticated electronic tools allows our fitment engineers to create extremely accurate drawings of these parts. We do the same for the wheels that we offer and then use Computer Aided Design (CAD) programs to match the wheels to the vehicles. Using these electronic tools we verify numerous different critical areas before a wheel can be listed for a vehicle.
Items We Measure or Verify

Bolt Pattern - Not as simple as 4-lug vs. 5-lug. There are currently 17 different 4- to 5-lug bolt lug patterns as well as 6- to 8- lug for light truck/SUV.

Centerbore - The wheel must, in most cases, fit the hub of the vehicle precisely, either as a direct fit or with the use of a centering ring.

Hub Interference - Many vehicles have additional items on the mounting surface area that must be considered for wheel applications, these include locating pins and rotor mounting hardware.

Load Capacity - The wheel must have enough load capacity when compared to the gross axle weight rating of the vehicle.

Lug Hardware - By either supplying lug hardware or using the Original Equipment hardware the wheel must be securely fastened to the vehicle.

Suspension Components - The wheel must clear and not interfere with any of the suspension components and their operation on the vehicle.

Offset
This is important, it determines whether your wheel will hit the fender or not, and offset helps when you're upgrading your brake system as well biggrin.gif , personally I like negative offset a lot but it will never suit my car perfectly cry.gif
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).
In simple way, we can say like this, positive offset wheel is hide inside your fender, while negative offset wheel is popping out from your fender, this is just the simplest way to explain but it never give accurate reading.
user posted image

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches).

What does PCD mean?
PCD stands for (pitch circle diameter), this is the diameter of a circle drawn through the center of your wheel's bolt holes. PCD is measured in millimetres and also indicates the number of studs or bolts the wheel will have. The most common fitment has 4 studs with a PCD of 100mm, hence the fitment 4x100. Check the fitment guide above to check the fitment of your car, if you are unsure consult a technician.

Rim Width and Aspect Ratio

TIRE WIDTH
To accurately measure the width of a tire, the tire must be mounted on a rim. Since a tire's section width is larger if the tire is mounted on a wide rim, and smaller if it is mounted on a narrow rim, each tire is measured on a specific rim width.
For example: For tires with aspect ratios from 80 to 50, the measuring rim, also called the design rim, is specified to be 70% of the section width. For tires with an aspect ratio less than 50, the measuring rim is 85% of the section width.

RIM WIDTH
Correct rim width ensures flex at the designed flex point in a tire sidewall for optimum tire performance.
If the rim is too narrow, the flex point moves toward the shoulder area, creating heat buildup in the shoulder, which reduces tire life and could result in failure.
If the rim is too wide, the flex point moves towards the rim area, causing heat buildup in the lower sidewall, which reduces tire life and could result in failure.

user posted image

Within the acceptable range of rim widths, one can select wider or narrower rims than the measuring rim. Selection of a wider rim, from within the approved range, (T & RA tables) stiffens the sidewall and improves handling at the expense of handling. If carried too extreme, either too narrow or too wide of a rim, it can result in uneven tread/pavement contact pressure causing uneven wear and potentially reduced traction, or increased vulnerability to bead dis-lodgement. Always check with your Dunlop dealer for permissible rim width options.

Remember - safe clearance must be determined for a particular tire/rim contender and vehicle.

Wider rims may offer some performance advantages over narrow rims. A wider rim increases the distance between the beads, which results in a straighter sidewall, which stiffens it. This results in quicker steering response and higher cornering forces.

Negatively, the straightened sidewall transmits more road shock to the wheel and suspension, placing greater stress on chassis and suspension parts and delivering a harsher ride. The straighter sidewall exposes the rim, making the wheel more susceptible to damage.

A narrower rim pulls the beads closer together, curving the sidewalls. This increased curvature allows the sidewall to flex more readily over bumps and absorb more road shock during driving. This offers a softer ride.

ASPECT RATIO
Aspect ratio is the relationship of a tire's height to width when mounted and inflated on a rim of the correct size. Aspect ratios are expressed in section height as a percentage of section width in two-digit numbers (80, 70, 60) and are often referred to as a tire's series. For example, if section height/section width is 60, the tire is a 60 series.

This height to width relationship determines the shape of the tire on the rim, and, more importantly, determines the performance characteristics of the tire. If the sidewall height of a tire is reduced slightly, the sidewall stiffness is increased greatly.
Higher aspect ratios deliver:
- Greater deflection under load
- Softer Ride
Lower aspect ratios deliver:
- Wider footprint
- Quicker response
- Less tire deviation or slip angle
- Lower flex rate
- Less deflection under load
- Harsher ride


A tire with a lower aspect ratio and stiffer sidewalls will transmit more force from bumps and irregularities in the road surface. A tire with a higher aspect ratio, with its more flexible sidewalls will provide a smoother ride because sidewall flexibility allows it to deform over the impact area, dissipating the energy.

Changing tires on a vehicle from one aspect ratio to another also influences section width, which relates directly to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The load carrying capacity of the original equipment tire must always be maintained or increased.

Anything that changes the tire's outside diameter also influences the vehicle's overall gear ratio, as well as the accuracy of the speedometer and odometer.

Another factor affected by change in aspect ratio and overall diameter is the tire footprint. Typically, a high aspect ratio tire will have a long, narrow footprint, while a low aspect ratio will have a short, wide footprint.

Finally, tire diameter/aspect ratio affects the input to the engine computers on some new cars, since vehicle speed is an input to these computers.

In other words, tire changes involving changes in aspect ratios should be made in consultation with your Dunlop dealer and reference to the vehicle's Owner's Manual.




How to clean your rims?

The ordinary simplest way laugh.gif

Step 1: First fill cleaning bucket with water and add cleaning agent that you are going to use (read directions for amount to use)
Step 2: Spray rim/tires in a circular motion with hose and make sure they are completely wet.
Step 3: Make sure cleaning rag is thoroughly soapy and begin washing tire at the top and completely go around whole tire, then start cleaning rim from top working around in clockwise direction.
Step 4: Once done cleaning with rag use brush to get at areas/small crevices that you could not reach with rag.
Step 5: Spray the rim in circular motion following the out side of the rim and rinse the tire. Once done use towel to completely dry both rim and tire and add additional product to tire for finishing shine.

***My own way
Make the rim wet and get a sponge with soap, rub it gently then flush with water, then wipe them dry, but I do clean spoke by spoke, that's all laugh.gif

user posted image



This is some general knowledge:
Once your new wheels and tires are installed, step back and take a good look. The new, sharper appearance will accent your vehicle splendidly. They look great now; but unfortunately, your wheels are often the dirtiest part of your car because they are constantly exposed to the elements (corrosive brake dust, ocean or road salt, stones, cinders and sticky tar).
Damage caused by prolonged exposure to these elements will void the finish warranty on your wheels. It’s important to clean them properly and often.

Here are a few tips on how to maintain a wheel's original splendor.
# Before you install them, a coat of wax will help protect your wheels and make them easier to clean.

# Treat the finish of your wheels as you would the finish of your car. Most alloy wheels today feature a painted and/or a clearcoat finish. The best way to take care of wheels without damaging their protective finish is by frequently washing them with a mild soap and water solution. Using a tar and bug remover can prevent permanent tar staining. Periodic waxing will protect the wheel's finish from the elements.

# Never use abrasive cleansers, steel wool pads or polishing compounds.

# Beware of automatic car washes. Some washes use acid cleaners either before or during the wash to remove dirt and grime. Others use stiff brushes for cleaning wheels and tires. Both of these processes could harm your wheel's finish. Ask the employees or manager of the car wash about their equipment and procedures before entering the wash.

# Never allow your wheels and tires to be steam-cleaned. Hot steam can dull the paint and clearcoat finish on your wheels.

# Don't clean hot wheels; wait until they cool. Water dries much faster at higher temperatures. Thus, cleaning wheels while they are hot may cause your mild soap solution to dry too quickly leaving spots or a film of soap on your wheels.

# Clean your tires and wheels first, one at a time. Tires and wheels tend to be the dirtiest parts of your vehicle and have a variety of surfaces to clean. So you will want to use the full strength of your hose to initially rinse away all loose dirt and to finally rinse off your soap solution. If you clean your tires and wheels first, you won't expose your washed car to the over spray as you rinse them. Cleaning one at a time focuses your attention and ensures that the soap doesn't dry on one wheel while you're cleaning another. Be sure to use a different sponge on the rest of the car's body to prevent scratching the paint from the particles that may have collected during the wheel cleaning process.

# Clean wheels on a regular basis. Remember, they're often the dirtiest part of your vehicle because they are constantly exposed to the elements (corrosive brake dust, ocean and road salt, paint-chipping stones and cinders and sticky tar).

# Your new tires and alloy wheels are like any other valuable investment. You should protect them. Clean them as you would the rest of your car. Care for them as you would care for your entire vehicle.


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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 08:26 PM


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You may now share your rim with us with this simple format biggrin.gif

Manufacturer:
Model:
Origin:
Size:
Width:
Offset:
PCD:
Technology:
Why did you buy it:
Pictures:


User:
1. AceCombat || Sprint Hart Formula CP-F || Japan || 15*6.5JJ || ET38 || PCD100 || SSF ||
2. mADmAN || Speed Star Racing Type-X || Japan || 15*6.5JJ || ET40 || PCD 100/ 114.3 || SSF
3. AceCombat || Sprint Hart Formula CP-F Gold Edition || Japan || 15*7.0JJ || ET42 || PCD 114.3 || SSF
4. -PuPu^ZaPruD3r- || Lenso Samurai SC06 || Thailand || 17*7.0JJ || ET38 || PCD100 || Forged
5.......
6.......
...............................

This post has been edited by AceCombat: Jul 25 2010, 10:02 AM
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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 08:26 PM


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Let me start with mine first, example biggrin.gif
anyway, this is just oen of my Sprint Hart collection brows.gif
I'm hardcore DieHard Sprint Hart collector laugh.gif


Manufacturer: Sprint Hart
Model: Formula CP-F
Origin: Made in Japan
Size:15 inch
Width: 6.5JJ
Offset: ET38
PCD: PCD100
Technology: Semi-Solid Forged
Why did you buy it: Because it's a legendary competition wheels
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «




Just follow like this then i'll update your information inside this thread rclxms.gif

Please share with us your rim and tell us your experiences, why you bought it, why you like it, and etc, everythign about your rim la thumbup.gif

Keep this thread alive!!!!!!!

Thanks
AceCombat™
Alive With Adrenaline™


This post has been edited by AceCombat: Jul 13 2010, 08:34 PM
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ericmaxman
post Jul 13 2010, 08:29 PM


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sweet thread !

thumbup.gif
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Azuma-kun
post Jul 13 2010, 08:31 PM


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Yah...luv it!!!!
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endG
post Jul 13 2010, 08:31 PM


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better if gt pics of ur rims..hehe..jus a suggestion
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pedro
post Jul 13 2010, 08:31 PM


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Nice thread Ace!!

Using first in the S category,more details later!
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mADmAN
post Jul 13 2010, 09:09 PM


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ace...theres already a sport rim thread la....

but i think this one better....whole lot more info...and more..."official" like

anyway...my rim

Manufacturer: SSR
Model: Type X
Origin: Nippon
Size: 15"
Width: 6.5"
Offset: +40
PCD: 100/114.3
Technology: Dunno
Why did you buy it: the only rim that made me go wow. and i waited 6 years to finally own it.
Pictures:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 09:33 PM


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Sorry for creating another sport rim thread, but I hope to merge all the related information into one single thread.

Type-X rclxms.gif
My friend got one also but in white color, urs is repainted right?
This rim also one of the Semi-Solid Forged from SSR, light weight rim as well, really nice one you got here notworthy.gif
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mADmAN
post Jul 13 2010, 09:41 PM


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not repainted.... original color
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xDjWanNabex
post Jul 13 2010, 09:46 PM


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Really informative thread!

Keep it going notworthy.gif thumbup.gif
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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 10:08 PM


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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 13 2010, 09:41 PM)
not repainted.... original color
*
yup, just found out, red lips some more, garang laugh.gif

QUOTE(xDjWanNabex @ Jul 13 2010, 09:46 PM)
Really informative thread!

Keep it going notworthy.gif  thumbup.gif
*
Come, share with us your rim as well biggrin.gif
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Notoriez
post Jul 13 2010, 10:51 PM


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Nice thread biggrin.gif
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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 11:07 PM


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Come come, share your rim with all of us here rclxms.gif
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xMika
post Jul 13 2010, 11:11 PM


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You missed out the Italian Fontmetal rims smile.gif
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AceCombat
post Jul 13 2010, 11:21 PM


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QUOTE(xMika @ Jul 13 2010, 11:11 PM)
You missed out the Italian Fontmetal rims smile.gif
*
Fondmetal, famous of aluminum rim one, forgotten laugh.gif
Already added into the list, thanks for sharing biggrin.gif
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xMika
post Jul 14 2010, 12:15 AM


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I'm using Fontmetal rims. But don't know how to find the model code. Its 18 years old already. A real nice 14" 5 spoke silver rims smile.gif
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Andy0625
post Jul 14 2010, 12:23 AM


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Very informative but it's a TL;DR material to me currently. when got budget to get sport rim sure will go through this thread again.

thanks for sharing. thumbup.gif
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AceCombat
post Jul 14 2010, 09:07 AM


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QUOTE(xMika @ Jul 14 2010, 12:15 AM)
I'm using Fontmetal rims. But don't know how to find the model code. Its 18 years old already. A real nice 14" 5 spoke silver rims smile.gif
*
You may share your pic with us and let us find out for you biggrin.gif

QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Jul 14 2010, 12:23 AM)
Very informative but it's a TL;DR material to me currently. when got budget to get sport rim sure will go through this thread again.

thanks for sharing. thumbup.gif
*
I know it's TL but dont la DR cry.gif
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AceCombat
post Jul 14 2010, 12:50 PM


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Another of my collection of Sprint Hart Wheels brows.gif

Manufacturer: Sprint Hart
Model: Formula CP-F Gold Edition
Origin: Made In Japan
Size: 15inch
Width: 7.0JJ
Offset: ET42
PCD: 114.3
Technology: Semi-Solid Forged
Why did you buy it: This is the special edition of the well known Formula CP-F, SSR built it for street tuners, it comes without the pre-applied decals, but it gives separately.
Pictures: Of course biggrin.gif
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xMika
post Jul 17 2010, 07:16 PM


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Now here is the picture of my rims biggrin.gif Can anyone find the model code for this rims ? brows.gif Actually myself also dont know much about this rim.
Its about 19 years old, same age as my corona

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Andy0625
post Jul 17 2010, 07:51 PM


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QUOTE(AceCombat @ Jul 14 2010, 09:07 AM)
You may share your pic with us and let us find out for you biggrin.gif
I know it's TL but dont la DR cry.gif
*
Mind if i ask normally stock rim would use how many offset ? for example proton waja ?
and what makes people change sport rim other than the look ? it cost quite a lot to change. blush.gif
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xMika
post Jul 17 2010, 07:56 PM


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QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Jul 17 2010, 07:51 PM)
Mind if i ask normally stock rim would use how many offset ? for example proton waja ?
and what makes people change sport rim other than the look ? it cost quite a lot to change.  blush.gif
*
People change rim for the look of it, the size of the rims ( if they want a bigger wheels, of course need a bigger rims. But same tyre thickness in comparison la tongue.gif ), the weight of the rims ( lightweight rims ) .. and wider rims
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AceCombat
post Jul 19 2010, 12:40 PM


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QUOTE(xMika @ Jul 17 2010, 07:16 PM)
Now here is the picture of my rims biggrin.gif Can anyone find the model code for this rims ?  brows.gif Actually myself also dont know much about this rim.
Its about 19 years old, same age as my corona
*
Bro, take a look at your wheel, is the wheel bottom there got Fondmetal engraving?
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QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Jul 17 2010, 07:51 PM)
Mind if i ask normally stock rim would use how many offset ? for example proton waja ?
and what makes people change sport rim other than the look ? it cost quite a lot to change.  blush.gif
*
For Waja if i'm not mistaken it's ET46 one.
Now new car more or less from ET35 to ET45 liao lo, it's easy too since now all sport rims can get from ET35 to ET45.
anyway, changing rim can have few benefits ( forget about bling bling ):
1: Better brake ventilation
2: Less fuel consumption
3: Better handling
4: Improved acceleration + max speed
5: It might save your life, refer my picture hosted.

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xMika
post Jul 19 2010, 02:54 PM


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Ya on my rims got fontmetal engraving but theres no code on there .. maybe located at the inner side .. wait i change tyre den go check
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AceCombat
post Jul 20 2010, 09:11 AM


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Yes, I know what you mean, from the pic I found above, Fondmetal wheels are some OEM wheel for Honda Civic EF/EG in America, I'm still finding the model.
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xMika
post Jul 24 2010, 03:32 PM


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Anyone wanna trade 16" rims with 14" rims ? I want to trade my Fontmetal rims smile.gif
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Thalmes
post Jul 24 2010, 04:51 PM


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I am looking for rims to fit into my Yaris . Looking at 15'' / 16'' ... It is quite expensive here in Aussie .

Any recommendations though ?
I like models like SSR type C or WORK Emotion CRKai ...
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post Jul 24 2010, 08:49 PM


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Manufacturer: Lenso
Model: Samurai SC-06
Origin: Made in Thailand?
Size:17 inch
Width: 6.5JJ or 7.0JJ
Offset: ET38 (not sure)
PCD: PCD100 (not sure)
Technology: ??
Weight: 7 KG (super light for 17")
Tyres: 205/40/17 Hankook S1 Evo (the flagship tyre for Hankook)
Why did you buy it: Because it looks damn nice, sharp and big for 17" smile.gif

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High-Roller
post Jul 24 2010, 11:37 PM


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bcoz tai kor not happy tongue.gif i scared kena wallupppp o

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mADmAN
post Jul 25 2010, 12:00 AM


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how about trying to use spoilers or something??? or be rajin abit to edit out uncessary crap...

especially if ur gonna post 1 liner spams like that...
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High-Roller
post Jul 25 2010, 02:41 AM


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sorry ya orang gila ... i edit my post ya... u the tai kor.
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AceCombat
post Jul 25 2010, 09:55 AM


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QUOTE(xMika @ Jul 24 2010, 03:32 PM)
Anyone wanna trade 16" rims with 14" rims ? I want to trade my Fontmetal rims smile.gif
*
Yes, you may try your luck here, I really wish someone can keep this thread alive biggrin.gif

QUOTE(Thalmes @ Jul 24 2010, 04:51 PM)
I am looking for rims to fit into my Yaris . Looking at 15'' / 16'' ... It is quite expensive here in Aussie .

Any recommendations though ?
I like models like SSR type C or WORK Emotion CRKai ...
*
Yaris is running PCD100, too bad I've a set of very nice SSR for sell, but it's PCD 114.3 cry.gif
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magiara
post Jul 25 2010, 12:51 PM


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Mine..
Kranze LXZ 3 pcs 19 "

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xMika
post Jul 25 2010, 02:08 PM


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19" ? What car you driving ? Estima ACR50 ?

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xiong
post Jul 25 2010, 02:33 PM


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15 " Sport Rims biggrin.gif


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AceCombat
post Jul 25 2010, 02:52 PM


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@xiong
model and spec pls? biggrin.gif

@magiara
spec pls? biggrin.gif

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