We have to be fair to the other SIE members staying far away from Kl like from Melaka, Ipoh, Perak, JB and etc.... I would suggest sumwhere in between like Sg Buloh RnR or Karak Mekdi.

Unless u all decide together and confirm where to organize the TT. If let say in KL, is EVERYONE here ok with it???

come setel laa..... 2nite mini pre-TT @ Old Klang Road KL. Ada bran???

2moro u ada kt Melaka x??? Planning to overnite sana but no place to stay lor....

Oit unker, dis is not 4g1sillysea forum ok.... Dun bring the TCSS virus over here.

Malam ni @ Carribean Cafe Old Klang Road KL. 8.30-9pm sharp onwards.

Pls inform:
~Gilbert
~Yewwing
~Shawn
~Ronzai
~Andy
~Sid
~Anymore???

Pls try to make this TT a successful 1 Thanks

Any info: 013-3809612 Zaini

You're coming???

Best to take the 47mm fully alu radiator. It shud cost around RM290 if I m not mistaken.

I m using that setup as mention above. Monroe Sensatrac paired with Pro Ride sport springs. Saga knight 1.6L turbo engine. Feedback, abit bumpy due to its short stroke freeplay. Stabe @ high speed (180-200km/h no problem) hardly understeer @ high speed corners.

Boss, long time didn't drop by here.... MIA??? hahahaaa....

Anyway regarding ur question, since u already change the radiator... u could use these guidlines for further references. U can opt either:

27mm aluminum radiator (RM190 new)
or
47mm aluminum radiator from Jasma (RM290 new)

Wats the differences??? Both are made from aluminum and effective in dissipating heat compare with copper material. Copper is much more effective is drawing the heat from the engine and coolant but slightly poor in heat dissipating comparing with aluminum. As for the thickness, thicker radiator holds more water. The more water it holds, u need a better/stronger radiator fan to fully utilize the radiator. And ofcuz ur thermostat muz be in good working order or else u gonna have problem with the temperature like cold start problem and operating temp problem.

I've been using Toyota Coolant mixed with R.O water on my 27mm double layer radiator for nearly 2years and sold off the radiator (upgraded to the 47mm rad) to a fren using the same coolant mixture. So far no problem with it. IMHO, it keeps the water from rust formation and it does not harm the radiator so far lah.

Here is sum example of the radiators I've mention about.


47mm single row aluminum.


27mm single row V.S 47mm single row aluminum.


No doubt it is 47mm in thickness but its still consider a single row.


35mm double row aluminum rad from Honda EG, EK. Can mod into SagaIswara chassis.


35mm double row aluminum.

So, 27mm single V.S 35mm double V.S 47mm single????

Well.... usually if its been recondition, most probably the rad has been re-spray which is not good. And I m afraid the rad might been punctured and patch up edi. So it depends on ur luck lor.... juz hope it won't kantoi in the near future

Check ur reverse switch located @ the gearbox. It might be faulty

I've bring 6 person including me with my car so far no problem and no such thing as bumpy ride or rear "sangkut" against the fender. 3 of them are big size more alike yewwing's size. And another 3 is normal weight. using the same setup as Shawn's right now.

Doing around 160-180km/h with it. Until recently la when I changed my rim with wider offset which is gud in terms of handling and stability but my rear wheels is brushing against the arch Demmit.

Shawn, that is not ur crossmember hitting la... no such thing. It is sumthing loose inside, suspecting either ur absorber mounting or bearing. If lowered like dat oso kena crossmember, thn Gilbert, yewwing, kenny, ronzai, ID86 and the rest are also experiencing the same thing laa???

It will only hit the crossmember and GB housing if u fly over bumps or land too fast/hard. Then that is the driver's fault lor...

U kurus but berat tulang laa.... Luckily it wuz u sitting behind not Alvin

Sumthing new to share....









See the differences???

Err.... I dun get it???

The original rubber bushing is much more softer compare with the Teflon material. As for lowered cars like mine, the rubber bushing will get damage and deformed in short period bcuz of the front anti-roll bar is pressing against it.

Me and catacombs tried replacing it with harder material (Teflon) and so far, its still holding on. The front ARB becomes slightly stiffer hence, less body roll when u dive into corners (depending on your tires) and a slightly bumpier front end (depending on your suspension setup).

There are a few SagaIswara track cars that are using solid piece of washers/spacers for the satay link as the bushing replacement which I think it is not suitable for daily driving, dats why we decided to try out Teflon material instead. No doubt Teflon material are solid hard as a rock... but under heavy load it will still deform abit and still got sum freeplay.

Yup, in the pic above u can notice I park the car 1 side higher thn the other and the tire is taking most of the load on the car.

UGPM