If the damage is physical, they won't bother to repair. They will instead give you another HDD. Check the S/N before and after RMA, it will be different.

As for commercial data recovery, it is very expensive. It may have been cheaper for you to buy two additional HDDs and backup to them regularly before the incident, or maybe even SSDs.

If you can't afford commercial data recovery, you can hope/pray the damage isn't a serious one. Put your HDD in your freezer, after wrapping it tightly with newspaper to prevent moisture damage from the freezer. Then take it out and plug it into your computer and boot up while it is still cold. If you're lucky, the HDD will be stable and readable for long enough to copy some data out. Repeat as often as necessary while you still have data that you can retrieve.

And when copying, if it slows down or stops for a long time, cancel the copy. The file it was trying to copy at that time is probably damaged and unrecoverable. Try to guess what file it was and skip it for the time being and try copying other files. Your priority is to rush in and grab what you can as you are working against a time limit, your HDD is becoming hot and/or losing integrity. If you have copied everything else, you can come back to what you skipped earlier.

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Added on March 11, 2011, 3:46 pmhttp://www.google.com.my/search?hl=en&q=hdd+data+recovery+freezer

This post has been edited by everling: Mar 11 2011, 03:46 PM

Using the cloning software may take much longer than necessary, as it may attempt to copy out all the useless data like "C:\Program Files" and "C:\Windows" that you don't care about.

By reviving, you mean to restore it to normal health? Not possible. It's dying. It's only chance to be restored is for you to spend thousands on opening the HDD case, moving its platters into a new HDD case and hoping nothing went wrong and that the surgery fixed the problem. You're going to need a replacement HDD.

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Added on March 11, 2011, 9:55 pmOr two even. There is a slim chance that your new HDD might die in the first three to six months due to some manufacturing defect. For items like family photos, a small investment in a RAID array and a couple of HDDs would be worth it.

This post has been edited by everling: Mar 11 2011, 09:55 PM

Cheaper and better performance. If you're concerned about electricity, keep in mind that you'll save probably less than RM2 in electricity bills per year with the WD Green. Not really worth sacrificing the performance for that.

Hard to come across current reliability numbers. The manufacturers don't like releasing that data.

The Green will always lose because it is a 5,400RPM HDD and the Samsung F3 is a 7,200RPM HDD. Cache sizes are not very meaningful for HDDs.

There are three major items actually. Platter data density, RPM and cache. Platter density is the most important, followed by RPM and then cache size. The best part is that platter count or density are less well known than RPM or cache. A single platter 1TB 7,200 RPM HDD may outperform a two platter 1TB 7,200 RPM HDD.

In any case, it is no longer important to be very concerned about HDD performance. They will all suffice for data storage. If you want to install the OS on a HDD, then any random 7,200RPM will be okay; although the Samsung F3 will be recommended. If you want real overall performance, then you need to look at SSDs. 10,000 RPM HDDs will just lose to them in performance, even in RAID.

It's a constant 5400RPM, high or idle loads. Confirmed through sound analysis.

SATA 6.0Gbps is of use only for SSDs. SATA 1.5Gbps and 3.0Gbps will suffice for HDDs. SATA 6.0Gbps HDDs are marketing gimmicks.

The Samsung F3 1TB SATA 3.0Gbps is a good start for your consideration. But if you have the budget, a decent large capacity SSD would be a great option for your boot disk.

The buffer size is of little real value for HDDs. And if you want a performance HDD, you want to look at the 7200RPM class and read up on reviews.

One possibility is a failure in the enclosure. You might want to remove the HDD from the enclosure and install it in your desktop to test.

If it is not the enclosure, then it is likely that it going to die. I hope you have backed it up and secure erased anything sensitive.

That is why my policy is always "copy-only" or "unimportant data only" when breaking in a new HDD, for the first few months. Google's analysis on their thousands of cheap HDDs suggest that most HDDs that die prematurely, die in the first six months.

That is as meaningful as me claiming that my WD Green 1TB and Samsung F3 1TB are very reliable. Not very much.

It isn't just some random part. It is the parking of the read/write head.

But honestly, this is news? It is one of the bigger "feature" of the WD Green series. Also, it has been years since the first WD Green product came out and we are not seeing extraordinary levels of RMA claims nor recommendations to stay away from the HDDs for failure rate.

I'm not going to bother both of my WD10EADS over this.

This "bug" isn't serious, more like an annoyance in practice. After parking the read/write heads, it can take a long moment before it can respond to requests. It is why the WD Green is not suitable for storing the OS partition as it can introduce long pauses if the HDD was left to idle. Normal performance HDDs take much longer before they decide to park the read/write heads.

As for the parking: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_dri...load_technology

No.

ben3003, you're lucky for catching that now as that are a lot of bad sectors. Your data can still be saved. You might also want to ask around if your PSU is good or not, or even if it is sufficient for your OCed rig. Aging, bad or insufficient power supply can cause HDD damage. A number of forumers here, including myself, had encountered HDD damage due to poor power supply.

Try this page: http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

You'll need to fill in your hardware details, including the over-clock. I tried it, using your sig and a 30% capacitor ageing, and it would seem that your PSU is well past its prime.

Could be a bad sector or file corruption. Did you try "chkdsk /r" on all your partitions?

While we may eventually see such numbers as HDD sizes goes up, you shouldn't be seeing it for the Samsung F3 1TB. If the "chkdsk /r" test does both read and write, it should complete the scan of the entire 1TB in about six hours. I think your HDD is damaged. If you agree, it would be best to backup what you can, securely delete your personal data and then RMA it. RMAed HDDs are almost never returned to you, as they'll replace it with another HDD.

If you want good computer specifications, you'd be better off buying a pair of Intel 320 300GB and RAID-0 them monsters than buying a pair of half-cooked 1st generation hybrids.

Well, that still doesn't mean the Momentus are not half-cooked hybrids.

Take a look at the performance numbers here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/3734/seagate...od-hybrid-hdd/6

In short, the Momentus will feel like a better than average HDD. And RAID-0 will not help you improve that performance to true SSD levels. If you want real performance but at a reasonable price, then you should buy a cheap Kingston SSD. While cheap, they are still good SSDs.

I can get better access times from my WD Green 1TB vs my Samsung F3 1TB. And you know that access times are why SSDs are performance kings.

This post has been edited by everling: May 27 2011, 11:41 AM