simple way to brake in motor, since racer query me via pm, i hope this help.

-brake in actually is to reshape the brushes of the motor.

-new brush normally flat and not shape, they has less contact surface compare to motor which has been brake in...this is due to the commutator was shaped in round.

-as we know, less contact point in between brushes and commutator, the brush will provide less electricity to the rotor, in this case, your motor will has less power and speed.

-to reshape the carbon brush(only sprintdash/powerdash also hyperdashpro/automictunedpro allowed to do so),

you need: cleaner, lubricant...some time multimeter and etc.

step:
1. lube the bushing, which the top end of the motor case, you must always keep your bushing lubed, bushing is the major friction point of your motor, it will be spoil easily, to protect it will ensure it lifetime and performance.

2. low batteries, normally use 1.5 volt or lower power to run the motor, this is the step to reshape the carbon brushes.

3. always keep eyes, thus to ensure the motor is not overheat, overheat will damage the magnet.

4. judge the motor brake in stage via motor rev noise/rpm/amp draw reading/speed. anyhow, motor with no load speed will not be assure that it can run good on loaded. test and record is needed.

5. after brake in, clean your motor by using RC cleaner or any cleaner which you prefer, remember to lube your bushing after you cleaned your motor. now your motor is ready to run.

remind, keep your bushing protected and no

there is no shortcut for brake in motor, you need to pay for machine like M-Master, or each stage of brake in, you need to bring your motor to test and record the time or speed.

this is how motor look like after brake in:
motor will be damage after several use, you have to change motor frequently if you are request for performance...motor will not last forever.


this is how the brushes look like after braked in. the brush will be rounded..

yup..all parts w/o battery..i'm using tz-x for first time..see how la esok, kena tinggal ngn otai2 VS.. 
setup using HG plates at front n rear..mid tire..12-13 double roller at front, 4pcs 9mm at rear..
<chienoz>
multimeter..u can buy at big hardware shops like ACE..price around rm20-50..just buy the basic2 one but not so cheap la..

from outside:
long rear wing... unusual huh? my style of setting...

under deck:

short wheelbase to improve the agility in the corner

adjust the angle:
-to improve the speed, i tried to decrease the original angle, end up decrease the stability and flew out... sad~
-thicker stabilizer to hold the track...

inner:

original gear setting, proper run-in and lube... typical yahya's setting(i learn this from yahya when we exchange opinion..)

-as per yahya, this is the fastest/safer setup when nothing reinforced on chassis...
-you might improve it by using fluorine coated shaft...and coated long shaft
-this car no fluorine shaft due to out of stock...


brake:
-it used to has 5 pcs, 2 has been taken off due to faster time attack..


strategy on LC:
i tried flying LC to improve the time... but slightly risky.
-if the car not fast to fly from down slop LC, it will directly hit the track...
-if the car flying out and get proper angle... it less harm to the chassis and better landing point...


no gold terminal on this car yet... but polished...not a bad idea when you don't have gold terminal...

any comments and improvement welcome.

we share... slowly look for your own style of doing motor and car... the beauty of playing mini 4wd~~

nice...     
the purpose of multimeter is to check voltage of batteries .... the power the battery, the faster your car...
those for motor, we are working on it... if you have no problem on finance... buy motor master better...

good then...

yes... certain ampere level... and it's much more complex issues and factors in between it...those will affect the reading shuold take into consider...

read this and understand ...
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/technic/t_0201.html

hope it help...

hard to explain here..next time u see ppl use multimeter at TU, quickly ask them.. 

can't sleep... checking some motor data...

for those powerful motor... normally 3V under no load will consume 0.7~0.8(10A)...

thus, provide high speed and high toque...

but ensure there is no other load that cause power consume when you test...also... no other lube for less friction...